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  • 4 weeks later...

After welding up holes and pits, make sure you check the rail for straightness. You may have to hammer it on a dolly to stretch the metal.

 

I find those plastic wheels good for rust. They don't shed bits of steel either.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

After welding up holes and pits, make sure you check the rail for straightness. You may have to hammer it on a dolly to stretch the metal.

 

I find those plastic wheels good for rust. They don't shed bits of steel either.

 

Thanks for the tips! I'll keep my eye on the straightness, I do have a plastic wheel somewhere, those pesky steel bits are annoying and get stuck in your clothes too!

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There are at least two grades of those plastic wheels, one for paint and a heavy one for rust. The only trouble with these spinning tools is they don't get to the bottom of the pits so the rust is still there.

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Just now, Spinneyhill said:

There are at least two grades of those plastic wheels, one for paint and a heavy one for rust. The only trouble with these spinning tools is they don't get to the bottom of the pits so the rust is still there.

 

Spoiler alert, if all goes to plan I’m going to try and sand blast the chassis. That solves the issue you mentioned. I’m going to try and do everything I can at home to make it rust free. Once sand blasted I’ll put on a rust treatment just to catch any last micro bits left behind and hopefully it’ll be all good then!

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On ‎7‎/‎25‎/‎2019 at 2:31 AM, Surf City '38 said:


Powder Coat....?

I missed your last message, apologies. I've got some gloss black chassis paint that will go on. Powder coat is a bit beyond what I can do at home I think!

 

I've just released another episode, the start of the dash board project!

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When blasting large pieces I blast and immediately epoxy  prime only portions of the whole that I can accomplish in 1 work day. 

Allow dry time . Protect that area and continue the 1 day blast/prime routine again until the project is finished.

I work in a humid climate as well.  

Luck.      John

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19 hours ago, johnworden1 said:

When blasting large pieces I blast and immediately epoxy  prime only portions of the whole that I can accomplish in 1 work day.

Thanks John, that’s a handy tip! I’m going to get the whole thing blasted as it is quite bad, and then go over and do it again but quickly before I paint it. Depending on how long it takes I might paint it in sections.

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Henry, thanks for the speedo video. The 1930 Dodge 8 has the same speedo and I hadn't twigged it was so easy to drive the shaft out. I have been playing with two of them that are very tight to stuck; after driving the shaft out, they are not tight, so I conclude the body has grown just a little and it was binding on the end washers. Thanks for the know-how!

 

Similarly with the coil. I have never had luck with undoing tabs of that sort, however. I think your coil key face should have some white writing on it; mine does, like this one:

image.png.740c64fdde8c42052d7ce6c9cf162cd1.png

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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On 8/17/2019 at 4:04 AM, Spinneyhill said:

Henry, thanks for the speedo video. The 1930 Dodge 8 has the same speedo and I hadn't twigged it was so easy to drive the shaft out. I have been playing with two of them that are very tight to stuck; after driving the shaft out, they are not tight, so I conclude the body has grown just a little and it was binding on the end washers. Thanks for the know-how!

 

Similarly with the coil. I have never had luck with undoing tabs of that sort, however. I think your coil key face should have some white writing on it; mine does, like this one:

Thanks for watching!

 

You have no idea how long I was messing about with that speedo before I twigged that I could get the shaft out! Felt like forever, but now it is absolutely silky smooth like a brand new one and there's no slack or anything either.

 

Regarding the coil face, it's interesting you mention the white writing. There was the absolute faintest little hint of the word "IGNITION" from memory, but the funny thing was that it was on the back side of the little plate, not the side facing the driver, I can only assume this has been the case since it was built as the screws and threads etc. all looked completely untouched, but who knows! It was too faint to make out properly unfortunately, but I guess yours would be the same layout relative to the key hole so maybe one day I might try and put it back. It would be really handy if you wouldn't mind getting a really square on close up high quality photo of your key switch face.

 

Henry

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Sure. I have a spare coil so it will be easy to photograph that in good light. I hope the writing is good. I have done this type of artwork in a vector graphics program, but I suppose you have one of those in the CAD system you used for the gas sender dial.

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4 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

Sure. I have a spare coil so it will be easy to photograph that in good light. I hope the writing is good. I have done this type of artwork in a vector graphics program, but I suppose you have one of those in the CAD system you used for the gas sender dial.

Thank you! I used the cad system and loaded an image that ArticiferTom sent of his fuel gauge and then traced over it. It is vectorised so can be blown up to any size etc. The nice thing with cad is whilst creating a vector drawing, you can do it all to exact scale and dimension each part to get it really good.

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1 minute ago, Henry Boler said:

The nice thing with cad is whilst creating a vector drawing, you can do it all to exact scale and dimension each part to get it really good.

Yes, that is why I used a vector graphics program. Bit map gives rubbish but most don't know there is an alternative. I used Inkscape.

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59 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

Yes, that is why I used a vector graphics program. Bit map gives rubbish but most don't know there is an alternative. I used Inkscape.

It makes all the difference in the world!

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I've just released "The Dash" part 3 of 4! Restoring the Oil Pressure and Ammeter this time. Click like and subscribe on YouTube if you enjoy the video to support my channel! There're all sorts of other videos to watch there too!

 

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Here are a couple of images of the coil face. Unfortunately this camera is not the best at auto focus and it is hard to get it all square. You should be able to remove the perspective in a graphics editor.

DSC_1820.thumb.jpg.7875f06be98cb5e3156ee255a1469ce4.jpg

 

DSC_1817.thumb.jpg.43aed92a0f867f51beb3ba61a67c0a9b.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 8/21/2019 at 11:27 AM, Spinneyhill said:

Here are a couple of images of the coil face. Unfortunately this camera is not the best at auto focus and it is hard to get it all square. You should be able to remove the perspective in a graphics editor.

I just realised I never said thank you for these photos. How rude of me. So, thank you very much! Much appreciated.

Henry

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  • 10 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Looks good . I favor oil on springs . Having just redone mine and pre 27  Mechanic's Manual says every 2000miles oil.

  The bolts your dealing with are the spring leaf center pin , 7/16"  x 24 tpi fine thread  . These are ready available in US at NAPA type stores  .  

On 8/31/2020 at 4:46 AM, Henry Boler said:

New video out this morning. This time, restoring the leaf springs.

 

The cross bolts are 7/16 x 18 standard x 3" .  All bolts are installed the where cut flush with bolt cutters .  Hence your snarly end , then penned to prevent loosening .

Edited by ArticiferTom
18-16" (see edit history)
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