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Cylinder head tightening on 1929 Chrysler roadster E65


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Hi there,

I fit new pistons in cylinder and I'm now ready to close the engine.

However first if all I want to double check something.

Months ago Sasha sent me doc name:"Torque chart for cylinder head and bearing installation".

On it I could find :

  • the stud torques which is 60-70 ft.lbs is that correct?
  • but could really find the head tightening sequence, I am afraid qulity is not good enought for tired eyes ! Do you have it please?
  • should we tight bold in only one sequence or smoothly increase torques of "X" sequences ?
  • Then should double check tight after "X" kilometers ?

 

Thanks to you all.

 

Alain

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Alain,

 

I have drawn the tightening sequence for you hope it will help, the stud torque should be 60- 65 for Chrysler 6 1924-32 models.

It would be best to torque the head in stages say first to 20 then to 40 and finally to 60-65

   

Tightening Saquence Chrysler.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for all the above information.  Still, I have a question.  I have seen slight "weeping" at spots surrounding the head before the engine is warmed up.  I assume that I should re-torque the head, at least as a "first step."  My question is, does Sasha's torquing  strength (60-65) and  pattern also apply to my '30, Model 77 silver dome engine?  I notice that the layout of the studs varies slightly from Sasha's drawing. (Also, I did not count the studs.) Note:  so far, I have seen no evidence of water in the oil, always a possibility if the head is loose.  Obliged for any information or comments.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress report: We torqued the head in two stages, according to Sasha's pattern.  First to 40 pounds, and a lot of studs were too easy to turn as we progressed.  After an hour or so, we went on to fifty five pounds, but with the engine hot.  After the first torquing there were no longer any weeps.  After the second torquing, which seemed easy, because the engine was warm, we decided that was enough.  We didn't want to stretch old studs.  The engine is dry.  We also replaced the plugs, not because they were not working, but because a couple of the plug seals were weeping oil.  The seals were sufficiently rusted to justify the replacement.  I report these things as a progress report on a car which was supposed to have been fully restored when I acquired it over three years ago.  I have pictures showing that there was a body off restoration of the chassis and body, even with the report of an appraiser that described and graded the extensive work done.  At this stage I believe the body and chassis work was well done, but it becomes apparent that a lot of mechanical and electrical work was left "for the next guy."  Me.  I hope my experiences are helpful to other "other guys" so I will try to keep you posted.  

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Alain,

Which pistons did you use?

Was it E145 or E218. Price difference is huge.

Where did you order them.

 

I am rebuilding my 65 2 door sedan engine and new piston are needed

Thnx for any info

Chris 

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