MrEarl

1979 Estate Wagon, AC Blower and Carburetor Problems

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9 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

Lamar,

 

One question, does the secondary on the 4 barrel function?    

Or fully open?  Some were designed to that way.

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3 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Or fully open?  Some were designed to that way.

 

Ive read that some Qjets don’t fully open but can be made to by bending the rod or something to that effect. 

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Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

 

You know I’ve actually begun wondering about that and if it does does it open fully. My mechanic said he set timing ( I didn’t ask at what) and that he adjusted the carb some so one would assume he checked that @avgwarhawk) I’ll be looking into that more after I get overheating issues resolved. My simple brain can only handle one thing at a time. I’m even  having problems remembering which thread I posted what in. 🙄😟

 

Maybe he did or didn't. The lack luster performance you are experiencing leads me to believe the secondary may not be working well if at all.  Down shift while at speed is one thing. Down shift(passing gear) at speed when secondary open should be quite good.         Remove the air cleaner housing. Start the engine and throttle it wide open.  You'll know it when the secondary open with the roar it produces.  Not to mention the small children that sucked in from the velocity of air.  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

 

Ive read that some Qjets don’t fully open but can be made to by bending the rod or something to that effect. 

 

 It is adjustable. Secondary air valve.   From my experience mine fully opened at WOT. 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)

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1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

       Remove the air cleaner housing. Start the engine and throttle it wide open.  You'll know it when the secondary open with the roar it produces.  Not to mention the small children that sucked in from the velocity of air.  

 

Along with gallons and gallons of high priced gasoline !

 

Mike in Colorado

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Posted (edited)

Success, the Hi blower works again. Installed the NOS relay and nothing. Fiddled with all the wiring and connections, again, nothing. Shut the hood, got in her to take her for a ride and just for kicks flipped the switch to Hi and IT WORKED. Thank ya Jesus, thank ya Lord.

 

 

6E59C28C-CD8F-4032-8F53-70B88A2F4122.thumb.jpeg.c582dca55e497289f3bebe4395140ae1.jpeg

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

and just for kicks flipped the switch to Hi and IT WORKED. Thank ya Jesus, thank ya Lord.

 

AMEN!  lol... I told you to giggle the switch. 😃

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On 6/21/2019 at 12:15 PM, MrEarl said:

Ive read that some Qjets don’t fully open but can be made to by bending the rod or something to that effect. 

 

If the choke isn't opening fully (e.g.,  the choke pull-off diaphragm is bad) that will prevent the secondaries from opening.

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20 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

If the choke isn't opening fully (e.g.,  the choke pull-off diaphragm is bad) that will prevent the secondaries from opening.

 

 

OR, option #2, a manual choke cable (universal) on evilbay @ $8.94 w/ free shipping.

 

SO, how much is a choke pull off diaphragm from your friendly Buick dealer ?

 

AND, if it's NOS, will it be the same age as the one you pull off ?

 

Sounds like an invitation to saying lots of words, you can't type here.

 

Mike in Colorado

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Posted (edited)

Me: Want to take the Buick to your eye doctor appointment this afternoon hon?

Rita: Sure, is the AC still working

Me: Of course, ice cold....

 

leaving the doctors office

Rita: I thought you said the AC was working!

Me: Where would you like to go out and eat tonight dear?

 

DANGIT!!!! Cranked her up, nothing coming out of the AC vents, nothing. Headed to dinner and thank goodness it came on in about a block but no Hi blower. Got home, put switch on HI, wiggle wires here, wiggle wires there....found it.

 

454A8DDD-8414-4E22-852B-06F36BE421D5.thumb.jpeg.54387a4e3af780a7385e0060cef6027b.jpeg

 

Will be cleaning up the electrical tape mess and contacts tomorrow. Is anybody familiar with this junction to know,  Is the clamp that holds this onto the head bolt possibly for ground?

 

4BAE73D8-03B3-42EB-B2D5-B968AA96737A.thumb.jpeg.39729cd5657a7972f077df5e96da1b0f.jpeg

 

 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)

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25 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

Is the clamp that holds this onto the head bolt possibly for ground?

 

Does not look like a ground, just a way to keep that wire from falling onto a hot manifold. 

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Looking at the window sticker.....that W85 Estate Wagon Limited Package ($1,853) was 18% of the $7,169 base price.    

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1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

Is the clamp that holds this onto the head bolt possibly for ground?

 

I doubt that's a ground connection; in fact, it's hard for me to think of a worse place to clamp a wire than to the hottest part of the head at the exhaust manifold junction...  :wacko:

 

If it were mine, I'd be looking for an alternate (lower temperature) routing.

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On 6/19/2019 at 12:42 PM, old-tank said:

My 76 Olds 455 was factory rated at 190hp/350 TQ (pathetic!) After rebuild with an "RV" cam from TRW (specs show only mild upgrade from stock) it really got woke up.

(some 455's from 68-70 had 400 hp and 500TQ)

A friend with the Olds 403 installed the same cam and it cam alive.  Later he installed Olds 350 heads (raised CR) from  a 1968 and it dyno'd nearly 400 hp (TQ unknown).

 

On 6/21/2019 at 8:57 AM, avgwarhawk said:

 

The rear sheet metal and glass is very heavy in the rear of these wagons.    

 

On 6/21/2019 at 12:00 PM, avgwarhawk said:

Lamar,

 

One question, does the secondary on the 4 barrel function?    

 

On 6/21/2019 at 12:23 PM, avgwarhawk said:

 

Maybe he did or didn't. The lack luster performance you are experiencing leads me to believe the secondary may not be working well if at all.  Down shift while at speed is one thing. Down shift(passing gear) at speed when secondary open should be quite good.         Remove the air cleaner housing. Start the engine and throttle it wide open.  You'll know it when the secondary open with the roar it produces.  Not to mention the small children that sucked in from the velocity of air.  

 

On 6/23/2019 at 9:52 PM, EmTee said:

 

If the choke isn't opening fully (e.g.,  the choke pull-off diaphragm is bad) that will prevent the secondaries from opening.

 

OK gang, over the last couple weeks I've been trying hard to determine just what's going on with the performance of this engine. The only thing predictable about it seems to be the unpredictability of it. I checked the secondaries sitting in the garage, running and not running, the bottoms open fully as well as the top with vacumm. But on the road it has no get up and go off the line and stumbles sometimes when being kicked. There's a STEEP hill in my neighborhood (some of you know it) and when I tried to pull it with trailer in tow from the bottom from a stand still I was wondering if it was going to make it to the top at about the midpoint. One day after stretching her legs hard and going through a lot of downshifting and dogging around it actually shut off when I kicked it at a green light. But at times coupling the QJet with the torque of the TH350 with the shift kit, it will snap your neck in all gears and does have a hell of a carb and tranny combined passing gear, if that makes sense.  I'm not trying to abuse the engine, just putting it through the tests to find it's good and bad habits. I've read pages of info and watched hours of Quadrajet videos and have learned a lot about this often misunderstood carburater which some claim to be the closest thing to fuel injection you can get.  This guy tells it like it is in his videos on the subject and I've learned a lot watching hours of them. I've watched most all of his Quadrajet series of how to videos, he has a high understanding and appreciation of the carb and speaks my language.

 

 

 

 

So considering all this I think I do need to be looking at a couple of options. Either send my carb out for rebuild or purchase a rebuilt. Either way I want it to be tuned to my performance needs of which is towing with decent gas mileage. I need someone who will stand behind the build and answer questions I may have and in laymans terms. I am leaning toward sending mine out as I know it to be correct and original to the car and is not damaged.

 

3 hours ago, Brad Conley said:

Might I suggest a Quadrajet specialist?  I've used Mark Northcut at Quadrajet Power for 4 rebuilds so far.  https://quadrajetpower.com .  Great guy and a Buick owner!

 

Thanks Brad, Mark is definitely on my list . Along with  these

 

https://cliffshighperformance.com/

 

http://www.everyday-performance.com/quadrajet_carburetors.htm#shop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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39 minutes ago, EmTee said:

 

I doubt that's a ground connection; in fact, it's hard for me to think of a worse place to clamp a wire than to the hottest part of the head at the exhaust manifold junction...  :wacko:

 

If it were mine, I'd be looking for an alternate (lower temperature) routing.

 

It does seem a poor choice to locate it but appears it came that way. @dmfconsult @JohnD1956 anything to share ?

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Is that connection on the passenger side of engine behind the compressor?  Looks like there should be two connections there, the smaller of which should be the hi-blower connection.   I don’t think that clip is a ground but I don’t see it on the schematic.  

 

I don’t have the wagon here otherwise I’d go out and snap a pic. I might be able to get over to the car in a day or so. 

image.jpg

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It is on the passenger side Doug. The length of wires and somewhat unique mount make me think that it is the way it came and wasn’t hacked in. Yours may be different because of the different compressor. 

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Different motor too. From the chassis service manual, here’s the diagram showing connections with radial compressor. Note the ground is shown on the mounting bracket for the compressor, so I’m sure the clip on your harness is just a clip to keep the harness in place. 

 

image.jpg

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I think it was brought up earlier, but have you ruled out exhaust issues (plugged cat or broken baffle in the muffler?) to explain some of the power and bogging issues?  We had a plugged cat in a 76 Pontiac wagon and it would not climb hills either. 

 

I would also be looking at vacuum lines and the condition of the coil as well, as problems there could explain some of the symptoms. 

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16 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

So considering all this I think I do need to be looking at a couple of options. Either send my carb out for rebuild or purchase a rebuilt. Either way I want it to be tuned to my performance needs of which is towing with decent gas mileage. I need someone who will stand behind the build and answer questions I may have and in laymans terms. I am leaning toward sending mine out as I know it to be correct and original to the car and is not damaged.

 

 

Thanks Brad, Mark is definitely on my list . Along with  these

 

https://cliffshighperformance.com/

 

http://www.everyday-performance.com/quadrajet_carburetors.htm#shop

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I recommend a rebuild of what you have.  I have had better experience with rebuilding what's on the engine over a rebuild out of the box sitting on the shelf.  The bog down, cutting off from time to time/punching it at the light certainly indicates carb issues.   

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What is that wide open throttle switch?  Never saw one of those in a Buick powered Wagon.  It would seem that when activated by putting your foot into it, the AC would shut down automatically? I wonder if this is an underlying cause of several problems.  

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2 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

 

 

I recommend a rebuild of what you have.  I have had better experience with rebuilding what's on the engine over a rebuild out of the box sitting on the shelf.  The bog down, cutting off from time to time/punching it at the light certainly indicates carb issues.   

 

I concur. I would strongly advise you to use what you have now, so long as it is correct for your application. The biggest mistakes people make is: 1) using an aftermarket part when the OEM part was designed by people that actually know what they are doing ( ie-Holley vs Quadrajet) and buying a rebuilt part from a giant wholesaler (Auto Zone comes to mind) that was rebuilt using a mishmash of wrong parts. Lamar, the three rebuilders you listed will all do an excellent job for you. 

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Posted (edited)

OK, first the blower switch connection... I do believe the clip on the extended head bolt is how it came. Considering how close it is to the manifold heat however I decided the easiest fix was to simply extend that bolt thus pulling the contact and wires further away from the heat source.

 

497ADEA0-631C-4C77-95C7-95EDA8EE9794.thumb.jpeg.71d1eb23e5bb0d68ccd17de5a4e2e08f.jpeg

 

B950D55E-3E8B-420E-A5C3-F56C2FC41500.thumb.jpeg.8b8892942b7d17a2955ff50cec707511.jpeg

 

5EA98FFC-715A-4ECA-B134-2A760A2CB7BF.thumb.jpeg.644e5a0e428ea44a6f813947b0d8fbfd.jpeg

 

Not sure I have visited this coupling for the last time though as the 10 gauge wire is making loose contact and has melted the plastic at the end a bit. I will be looking for another 4 wire coupling.

 

 

 

 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)

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