AHa

Red Cote Arrrrgh!!!!

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The recommended time is 96 hours, or 4 days. I left it in the sun yesterday afternoon. The paint on the bottom dried quickly but the sealer inside the tank remained wet for some time but hardened before dark. There are instructions online to force air through the tank to speed up drying but the tech recommended allowing the sealer to dry naturally over time. I'm not in a hurry but I do want to put the truck back together.

 

I got good coverage that remained with the POR 15 where the Red Cote failed, twice. I suspect the reason people experience failures with POR 15 is due to not properly cleaning or drying the tanks. Time will tell what kind of job I have here but I found the POR 15 tech guy very helpful. I talked to him at least six times through the process. The POR 15 is a thicker product and I feel better about it.

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Posted (edited)

 I have successfully used fiberglass to seal gas tanks from the outside.

 I wash it out with detergent, then fill it with water. (to prevent the sparks from exploding the tank)

 I sandblast the bottom  and then drain the tank and dry the bottom quickly to prevent rust over.

 Then I use random woven fiber glass to cover the whole bottom.

 If brushed out nicely, it is not noticeable.

 I have tanks 10 years old and still OK.

 

 I have also "sandblasted" the inside of the tank by filling with water and putting in sand and gravel and then using a pressure washer. (It does not work well if the tank has baffles.)

 The tank will however, start to rust again quickly requiring a sealer.

 

 Rust can also be removed by filling the tank with a mixture of molasses, mixed with 9 parts of water. (clean first with detergent and follow with a pressure wash.Takes 30 days or longer)  Molasses is $10/gal, purchased at a feed and grain store.

Edited by Roger Walling (see edit history)

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On ‎8‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 7:46 AM, broker-len said:

Would be interested in hearing reports from anyone who has  used HIRSCH gas tank sealer

Been using the Hirsch alcohol resistant white sealer on my customer's gas tanks since it first came out many years ago. Done so many that I order it in the gallon can size, not quarts.  Easy to use and not one problem. Getting the tanks in/out, rinsed and prepped is  a lot of work, so I only use what I know works. 

 

I soak and just rinse the inside of the tanks well with fast drying lacquer thinner. Throw in some crushed rock and do the big cocktail shaker for a few minutes to knock off the loose scale rust. rinse again with lacquer thinner. Blow it dry then seal the openings. I tape a piece of thin vinyl tubing into one of the duct tape -close openings so the vapor pressure that builds up during coating with the Hirsh won't blow off an edge of tape and leak over the outside of the tank. Let dry for a few days and it's good to go, even with gasoline with ethanol

 

It adheres very well to any "tight rust" that remains after the stone shaking, so no need to have the tank boiled out, or risk contamination  problems with any rust removing chemicals. And it also seals any pin holes.

 

Paul 

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Posted (edited)

I now believe the secret to success with any of these products is the prep work and because of the multitude of instructions, contacting the actual company to get instructions. Por 15 instructed me to buy their cleaner and metal prep and follow their instructions explicitly for success. Red Cote offered very little in the way of instructions. They did not recommend any cleaner other than the acetone. Though others have had good success with Red Cote, my own experience was disastrous. All of these sealers must provide good service under ideal conditions or they would no longer be in the business of selling their products.

 

Also POR 15 informed me that old tanks can have wax in them. Don't ask me where the wax would come from but you can see how many sealers would not adhere to wax and solvents will not remove wax. My tank obviously had wax in it and that is what the Red Cote reacted to in my first endeavor.

Edited by AHa (see edit history)

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