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1940 Buick special s40 thermostat assembly


Norway2019

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Hello, I’m having some trouble finding the correct assembly for my 1940 Buick special s40. My problem is not that i cannot find the parts but rather the parts that say they are for my specific model are not correct. You see the boltholes for the outlet from the engine are side by side, not across like the housings that say they are correct. My grandpa actually bought the «correct» one but had to do some janky welding and fixing to make it work. And according to my research it looks like the s50-60-70 thermostat housing would fit or the one for 1941-1947 all models. 

 
Also, is it possible to run the system without the pressure valve? or would that cause damage to the water pump by letting water flow from both the radiator and directly from the engine. Maybe it would cause the car to overheat due to the water wanting to go directly to the water pump from the engine rather that through the radiator?
 
Thanks - Lasse
 
"correct" assembly:
The one i think would fit:
Edited by Norway2019 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Lassie, welcome to the forum. Here is a picture of a couple I have.. the one on the right is like what I think you need, its from a `41 248 engine. By-pass valve is missing, I can modify by installing a freeze plug with a 1/4" hole. This modification has been discussed here on the forum, which eliminates the valve.  Tom

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Thanks a lot, would it be possible to get the mesurements of the bolt holes, distance between the holes and the size of the "water hole"?

(btw what is the part number for the one on the right?)

 

Would it be better to buy a new one with the by-pass valve intact, or is it better to just eliminate it by doing the modification you were talking about?

 

Thanks again

Edited by Norway2019 (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, Norway2019 said:

Thanks a lot, would it be possible to get the mesurements of the bolt holes, distance between the holes and the size of the "water hole"?

(btw what is the part number for the one on the right?)

 

Would it be better to buy a new one with the by-pass valve intact, or is it better to just eliminate it by doing the modification you were talking about?

 

Thanks again

Bolt holes center to center is 1 7/8", water hole 1"x1 1/2"     Casting #1297938      I doubt you`ll ever find a new one. I did this recommended modification to both my `41 248 water pump and my `36 233 water pump.  Both gaskets, 2 copper washers(for the 2 pump mounting bolts)will be included. I don`t have a thermostat..

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What do you mean by 248 water pump (is it just the # of the pump?)

 

Will the thermostat housing include the plug for the heater assembly. I think thats what the hole on the side of the housing if for anyway. But i don't have the heater so i'll have to plug that hole off. 

 

How much would you charge for everything?:)

 

Would you also happen to have a gasket for the water pump?

Edited by Norway2019 (see edit history)
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The 233 and 248 is the cubic inch size of the engine, your 40 series engine is a 248.. I have a plug for the heater hose hole, and I`ll get what I need to do the valve modification and try to get it done today, and I will see if I have the pump gasket. I`ll send you a PM(personal message)with a picture of everything and price within the next day or two.  Tom

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Lasse, nice looking Buick you`ve got. Did gramps keep it that nice or have you been restoring?  My current project is a `36 Buick 40 series coupe, total re-do, hoping to get paint on this year. I`ve had it together, but now apart for paint. Engine is a `41 248 dual carb.

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Yeah he did a pretty good job. Was repainted a while back, and is all together:) Only thing that is left after the cooling system overhaul is to fix the windows, they are very finicky and they really dont want to stay in place, really risky to roll them all the way down haha. Thinking about getting new glass as well because they are starting to look really ugly. The only thing wring with the car has been a gas leak which i fixed a couple of weeks back, and this cooling system. We took the radiator out and sent it to get refurbished, so now the only thing remaining is this:) It was quite funny to take a good look in the engine bay, because a lot of the cooling system is custom made by my grandpa. Looks like he bought the wrong thermostat housing and had to make it work, also the dynamo is not oem. But when the rad gets back and i get a new thermostat housing and thermostat, it'll be done and ready to enjoy. Getting my driverslicense next year (in Norway you have to be 18), so cant wait to take it for a cruise

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Would you happen to know anything about the window assembly and how to fix it?:) If so, i could get cracking on that as well:)

 

Im not allowed to post any more today, but do you also have any spare freeze plugs?

 

(I think PM should work so we can continue the chat there:))

 

Edited by Norway2019 (see edit history)
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Well congrats!! On the up coming B-day and on your interest in an old Buick. I was 18 in 1966. You are in for quite a task just removing garnish moldings, door/window cranks, and door panels, just to get access to the window mechanism and such inside the door, and won`t really know whats wrong until you get inside. Do you have a shop manual for the Buick? Would be excellent to have..

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On 6/1/2019 at 5:04 AM, Norway2019 said:

Hello, I’m having some trouble finding the correct assembly for my 1940 Buick special s40. My problem is not that i cannot find the parts but rather the parts that say they are for my specific model are not correct. You see the boltholes for the outlet from the engine are side by side, not across like the housings that say they are correct. My grandpa actually bought the «correct» one but had to do some janky welding and fixing to make it work. And according to my research it looks like the s50-60-70 thermostat housing would fit or the one for 1941-1947 all models. 

 
Also, is it possible to run the system without the pressure valve? or would that cause damage to the water pump by letting water flow from both the radiator and directly from the engine. Maybe it would cause the car to overheat due to the water wanting to go directly to the water pump from the engine rather that through the radiator?
 
Thanks - Lasse
 
"correct" assembly:
The one i think would fit:

Perhaps they could be corrected? Post some photos so I can see what ya have. I'm 100% sure I can help you with the originals. 

 

James Ruther

Pot Metal Welder

Pot-metal-repair-Business-card-Signature-Series (1).jpg

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