glennb49

1989 16 valve 5speed TC need help getting running

Recommended Posts

Hi. How do you get to the distributor and wires on a 16 valve turbo 89 TC? The intake is in the way!! No spark, but turns over! Help Glenn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Either take the radiator fan out or take the intake manifold off. If you have skinny arms/hands you *might* be able to get to it if you only take the airbox and intercooler tubes out of the way.

 

As for the no start condition, does it have any stored codes? What diagnosis have you done thus far?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. Why cant it be right out in the open like my 89 regular 2.2 turbo!! I have pretty skinny arms so will try the air box and how do you get the intercooler tubes out of the way? Have not read codes yet . Just bringing the car home tomorrow, Then the fun begins!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got radiator out and can now get my hands on distributor, still a pain though!! will read coeds today, The former owner was trying to replace plug wires through intake opening and its a mess. I will take cap off and insert wires like manual says,  what is the order to install them on the cap so I don't get them all switched and have engine miss? It would be nice if cap is numbered. Where do I get spark plug socket that will reach way down in head , must be very skinny! thanks Glenn. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/31/2019 at 7:09 AM, glennb49 said:

Hi. How do you get to the distributor and wires on a 16 valve turbo 89 TC? The intake is in the way!! No spark, but turns over! Help Glenn.

I suggest that you FIRST verify that the timing belt is not broken and the is why you get no spark, cause the distributor shaft is not rotating. Does it sound as though it has good compression in all 4?

Did you just buy this car? Or has it been sitting without running for a long time?

You need to give us some more background on this, can't just pick an answer from thin air.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Hemi. Yes I just bought Saturday. The guy I bought from said it was running fine last fall when it started to miss and run erratically, He managed to make it home  where it sat till this spring. He found a cracked plug on cylinder 1 and cracked plug wire on one also. He bought $200.00 plug wires and plugs and tried to install wires through opening in intake runner. Had a mess and gave up, I bought and have radiator out and can now get my hand around distributor cap,  hope to get it out today and install new wires as instructed in shop manual. where do I get a 18 plug socket that is thin enough to go way down in the head and grasp the plug? I have juice at + terminal of coil and it popped a couple times when I turned it over yesterday. So it just might start when I get it all back together. It had 55 in stored code, What does that mean? I might keep this car if it runs good or sell it and keep my regular 89 TC, It has 107 K miles and is rust free and quite clean. Thanks for all your help. Glenn.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, glennb49 said:

Hi Hemi. Yes I just bought Saturday. The guy I bought from said it was running fine last fall when it started to miss and run erratically, He managed to make it home  where it sat till this spring. He found a cracked plug on cylinder 1 and cracked plug wire on one also. He bought $200.00 plug wires and plugs and tried to install wires through opening in intake runner. Had a mess and gave up, I bought and have radiator out and can now get my hand around distributor cap,  hope to get it out today and install new wires as instructed in shop manual. where do I get a 18 plug socket that is thin enough to go way down in the head and grasp the plug? I have juice at + terminal of coil and it popped a couple times when I turned it over yesterday. So it just might start when I get it all back together. It had 55 in stored code, What does that mean? I might keep this car if it runs good or sell it and keep my regular 89 TC, It has 107 K miles and is rust free and quite clean. Thanks for all your help. Glenn.    

Hi Glenn,  What you need is a 3/8" drive 5/8" spark plug socket. The 55 in the codes means (End of test) If you have no other code numbers, there are then NO codes in memory.

I took a picture of a spark plug, 5/8" socket and a tool to remove and install the spark plug into the head. The tool is any long screwdriver with a standard spark plug boot attached.

Use that to extract and install the spark plug, it is easier and safer than trying with the socket and extension. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

A lot of plug sockets that are the correct hex size, but won't fit in the head. I suggest trying to find a thin-wall socket. As a work-around, you can grind the socket down in diameter to fit.

 

I agree with Hemi's tips. I have a piece of hose that I use to take plugs out and put them in.

 

Replace the fuel hoses ASAP!

 

Edited by Reaper1 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Reaper1 said:

A lot of plug sockets that are the correct hex size, but won't fit in the head. I suggest trying to find a thin-wall socket. As a work-around, you can grind the socket down in diameter to fit.

 

I agree with Hemi's tips. I have a piece of hose that I use to take plugs out and put them in.

 

Replace the fuel hoses ASAP!

 

Reaper1 is right. If that 5/8” spark plug socket doesn’t fit, just try a SnapOn 3/8” drive socket. It has been some time since I had my 16 valve TC, I forgot that my spark plug didn’t fit.

Be sure to use fuel hose designed for the high pressure fuel-injection. Also use proper hose clamps.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well got cap off and found center tower with the contact burnt off so it wasn't making contact with rotor that also looked bad! Ordered and will be here today. That sure will be great if that's all it was but it coincides with the symptoms! I tried a 3/8 5/8 plug socket but I guess it wasn't deep enough, Ill keep you posted on what happens today with the new cap, rotor and wires installed. thanks for the help!! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You do need to use a deep well 5/8" thin wall socket. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not the first time I have heard of the center electrode in the cap failing! I actually had one that was almost worn completely out...I caught it before it did.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the deep thin wall 5/8 socket did the trick,  And it fired right up and it runs on all 4!! So I guess it was just a bad cap and rotor. I sure lucked out!!  Will put radiator back in today and take for a drive, See how it shifts and brakes.  Do these fuel lines look like replacements with that steel cladding or is the cladding some one installed? Thanks guys for all your input and I'm anxious to see how this puppy performs!!!    

DSCN3158.JPG

DSCN3159.JPG

DSCN3161.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's great to hear the car runs as it should!

 

The stainless steel braided covers on the fuel lines are factory. They are there for abrasion protection. It does not appear that those lines have been touched, so I *highly* suggest them to be replaced. Make sure the hose you use is "Fuel Injection Hose". Pressure side is 5/16", return is 1/4". There's also a fuel filter under the car just ahead of the right rear tire with some rubber, and then again back at the tank for the pump.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I replaced all four pieces of fuel line with injection hose, left the braiding off , would not go back on. I found filter by rear tire and it does look old, is filter for pump visible? or in tank? Well it was a hoot to drive! Need to get used to shift points and when to shift, seemed to bog out some when in fourth and fifth. Seemed to like to cruise best in fourth at about 60. It popped and hesitated some, I put in new gas , hope it will clear up, it was last run fall of 18. On my regular TC the waist gate must be stuck open so the turbo is on all the time, you can hear and feel it at stop sighs if you get on it. This one must be working right cause it makes this weird woosh noise between shifts when you get on it upshifting? As you see I'm no expert on these cars! No tail, parking or side marker lights. Fuse has power on both terminals, Must be broken wire back of fuse in fuse box or bad headlight switch? I jiggled the switch all around but they didn't momentarily come on, any ideas? Thanks again for all your help! Having fun,  66 years young old fart Glenn. 

DSCN3162.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The pump filer (aka "sock") is in the tank. Having seen some recent posts of older cars getting their pumps replaced, it might be a good idea to replace it as well. With the new fuel having ethanol in it, that stuff loosens up dirt, varnish, etc. and clogs filters.

 

A "stuck *open*" wastegate would cause the turbo to actually be "off" all of the time (kind of). It definitely would be down on power.

 

The "woosh" you're hearing is the factory BOV (blow off valve) located inside of the airbox. This is also known as an "anti-surge valve". It releases excess boost pressure when the throttle blade is closed so that it doesn't back up and stall the turbo compressor (surge).  

 

For the lighting issues, that's just going to take some electrical detective work. It very well could be the switch or the connector for the switch. If you get to that point, you're going to have to pull the gauge bezel off. The trickiest part of that is getting the knob off of the headlight switch. Pull the switch out like you're turning the lights on. Where the metal shaft goes into the plastic knob, on the bottom, there's a small hole...use a pick or something similar to push in there, then pull the knob. When you do that, you're releasing a small metal tine that prevents the knob from just pulling off. You can get "aggressive" with it if you have to, but don't break the knob as they are TC specific to the best of my knowledge. From there it's kinda self explanatory how to do the rest.

 

HTH!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tail, parking and side lights now work. I put a jumper wire from the brake light to the tail light cavity on one of the tail lite sockets, with the four ways on the tail and parking lights flashed along with side markers. except for rt parking light. replaced that bulb and suddenly every thing was working, must have been bad ground on rt parking light, I cleaned and scraped inside of socket. So I didn't have to mess with switch, Yes Iv been down that road removing the headlight switch and its a pain! Got exterior all cleaned up, next the interior! This is a really clean car! Are these cars that much more peppy than the regular 2.2s ?  My other regular TC with the automatic seems about the same. plus though I enjoy the stick its just easier to drive! which one do I keep!! What kind of money does a number 3 condition 5 speed bring? Thanks again for all your help!

DSCN3148.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 8V auto cars were 160hp,/~170tq, but the 16V cars are 200hp/220tq and no power sucking auto! It should be quite a bit more peppy than the 8V car. The V6 car would probably "feel" better around town just because of the flat torque curve and its instant down low torque, but it should be on par with the 8V for performance as those were 141hp/~180tq and the 4-speed auto.

 

The 5-speed cars are *RARE*...only 501 produced in 2 years. How much they're "worth" depends on a lot of factors, but anywhere from $4-10k isn't unreasonable, obviously the huge swing is dependent on the car's condition (I don't know what a "number 3 condition" means). From what I've seen in the pictures the car looks really nice. I'd venture to say you could easily ask $5k and get it, up to $7k. maybe. To get the upper amounts the car needs to have the umbrella and tool kit, maybe some other tid bits (FSM, hard top stand for example).

 

You are going to want to replace the brake accumulator bulb as it looks original. Firstly, it increases safety, secondly it increases the resale value since it's been done.

 

HTH!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AND, while the brakes, the ABS system, is working properly. FLUSH every drop of brake fluid from the entire system. It may be 30 years old or maybe it has been flushed along the way, BUT if you encounter brake pedal fade, slowly going to the floor, while you are sitting at a traffic light, it is TOO LATE! 

Replace the Accumulator and flush the system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the more I drive it the better it runs! Put some Sea Foam in oil and gas and its much peppier now. Replaced rt front caliper today and cleaned interior. Next new muffler, I kindda  like the raspy sound with the rusted out muffler. How quite will it be with a stock muffler? How about a glass pack? Im beginning to think I just might keep it and sell the 8 valve! Thanks again for your imput!  

DSCN3165.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glenn, do you have a 1963 or 64 Plymouth 4 door under that cover?  Just asking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have a good eye Hemi. That's my 63 Savoy 4 door six stick that I took my driver test in in 1969! dad bought in Jan 64 , was a rental. I bought from him in 71 , so its been in the family 55 years!! Also own a 63 Sport Fury 383 4 Speed that Ive owned since 01 when I sold my real 426 Max Wedge 63 Sport Fury Convertible I bought in 1977 with a 273 auto in it , I discovered it was a real max wedge car in 99 and built a clone engine from a 413 out of a 63 Imp. Sold for the $$$. I bought my current 63 Sport Fury in 01, It is also white with red interior , I even rebuilt the 383 and 4 speed that was in the max wedge before I discovered it was a real max wedge three speed ,and installed in my current Sport Fury! The max wedge went out to Cal. and got a frame off and has been featured in several mags, turns out its a one of one being white with red interior max wedge 3 speed convertible!! I also bought my current 1953 Buick Skylark in 01  I know I should not have sold the max wedge but this way its like I still have my car before I discovered it was a max wedge car, less stress full to own and drive. Kind of like the 16 valve verses the 8 valve TCs!! And I got my best yet 53 Skylark from the $$$ selling the max wedge with some $$$ left over.  

DSCN1165.jpg

2018-05-19 08.26.33-1.jpg

DSCN2116 (2).JPG

DSCN2681.JPG

DSCN2683.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a 90 TC at Grandpa Johns in Green Bay Wi. I got the rt seat and counsel out of for $50.00 this spring.

DSCN3119.JPG

DSCN3120.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now