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I took the rear end out of the vehicle, plan is to have it rebuilt along with a new drive line matched with the new Overdrive Transmission built by George Asche. 

 

my issue is finding all parts needed to rebuild the axle. 

 

I just spoke to Oceanside Driveline located in Oceanside, CA about cost to rebuild. he said he does about 1 or 2 old rear axles a year and they can take anywhere from 6-10 hours @ $100 per hour. 

 

I am wondering if it may be worth it to swap out the rear end as opposed to rebild it? 

 

looking for opinions.

 

I do like having the original axle however cost to rebuild old vs buy newer are what I am considering. 

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Your is different to mine but my bearings alone were a touch under $900. Pray that it comes apart ok. I think with mine the front bearing collapsing caused the bulk of my grief. Good idea to do it all at the same time. 

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On 5/29/2019 at 7:23 AM, Sactownog said:

yes, I plan to rebuild the entire rear end while it is out. just not sure if I should go with a new rear end that only needs updated breaks added or repair stock rear end with factory breaks. 

Sticking with the original rear end would probably be more cost affective. You could run into unexpected expense changing it to something else. Nothing like that ever goes smoothly. Lol

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Brake : A mechanical device that inhibits motion via absorbing energy from 

                 a moving system .

IE:        A system used for slowing and / or stopping a moving wheel, axle OR 

             to prevent its motion , most often abccomplished by means of friction .

             

 Spelled :    b-r-a-k-e-s

  

  Used in a sentence : My vehicles is equipped with OEM hydraulic brakes.

 

               

 

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4 hours ago, 42319DB34 said:

Brake : A mechanical device that inhibits motion via absorbing energy from 

                 a moving system .

IE:        A system used for slowing and / or stopping a moving wheel, axle OR 

             to prevent its motion , most often abccomplished by means of friction .

             

 Spelled :    b-r-a-k-e-s

  

  Used in a sentence : My vehicles is equipped with OEM hydraulic brakes.

 

               what is the reason for this? 

 

 

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He’s referring to your misspelling (or misuse of the word) brakes as breaks in one of your posts.  My mother was a grammar and spelling Nazi, so I ignore this kind of stuff as it brings back unpleasant memories.  Breaks for brakes and to for too seem to be the most common problem on these forums.

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4 hours ago, Taylormade said:

He’s referring to your misspelling (or misuse of the word) brakes as breaks in one of your posts.  My mother was a grammar and spelling Nazi, so I ignore this kind of stuff as it brings back unpleasant memories.  Breaks for brakes and to for too seem to be the most common problem on these forums.

 

X2, but give me ( and him ) a break......

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Back on topic, I removed the brakes on the ends of the axle. now I need to figure out how to pull out the axles. 

 

I do not think the rear end needs new bearings, It just needs new gaskets on the center housing that bolts to the rear pumpkin and on the ends that bolt to the backing plate. 

 

otherwise the rear end spins smooth. should I just re-gasket or have it completely rebuilt? 

 

I don't worry about people who are Grammar NAZI's (USUALLY DIRT BAGS STARTING BS).

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5 hours ago, Sactownog said:

 

Back on topic, I removed the brakes on the ends of the axle. now I need to figure out how to pull out the axles. 

 

I do not think the rear end needs new bearings, It just needs new gaskets on the center housing that bolts to the rear pumpkin and on the ends that bolt to the backing plate. 

 

otherwise the rear end spins smooth. should I just re-gasket or have it completely rebuilt? 

 

I don't worry about people who are Grammar NAZI's (USUALLY DIRT BAGS STARTING BS).

Once the axle retainer is undone the axle should just pull out. 

I would still pull all the bearings and inspect them. My axle bearings looked ok but the cups had some pitting almost as if they hadn’t turned for many years. The pitting  was the same spacing as the rollers. All my carrier bearings were toast. 

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6 hours ago, Sactownog said:

 

Back on topic, I removed the brakes on the ends of the axle. now I need to figure out how to pull out the axles. 

 

I do not think the rear end needs new bearings, It just needs new gaskets on the center housing that bolts to the rear pumpkin and on the ends that bolt to the backing plate. 

 

otherwise the rear end spins smooth. should I just re-gasket or have it completely rebuilt? 

 

 

Once the brake backing plates are off, the axles just slide out. However the fit is fairly close and it can be tight. I just mount the brake drum on the axle and use it to get a grip to pull on.

 

There may be some shims between the inner bearing cup and the housing: They need to go back as found to set the bearing preload. The number of shims needed depends on manufacturing tolerances for the axle housing so it doesn't change if you put a new bearing in.

 

If you are just replacing the outer seals you don't need to pull the axle shafts. Nor, for that matter, did you need to remove the brake backing plate.

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1 hour ago, Sactownog said:

I need to also put in pinion seal and differential carrier seal. 

 

I guess "differential carrier seal" would be the gasket between the differential and the axle housing. I am a little surprised it is leaking there, not much to go wrong unless someone took things apart. More likely that leakage from the pinion seal is running down there.

 

But if it is leaking, then you do have to remove the axle shafts. At which point you have everything apart enough to inspect the differential. Best of luck on that.

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Maybe it’s different on the 33s, but my 32 Dodge Brothers DL has two bearings on each axle and you have to pull the outer bearing race out to get the axle out.  I had to use a slide puller to get it out.

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8 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Maybe it’s different on the 33s, but my 32 Dodge Brothers DL has two bearings on each axle and you have to pull the outer bearing race out to get the axle out.  I had to use a slide puller to get it out.

yes, I spoke to Andy Bernbaum regarding this, and they said the axles should just slide out. I will be trying this tonight by putting the brake drum on backwards and pulling. 

 

I will be trying to pull the axles tonight and getting the center unbolted from the housing. 

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12 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Maybe it’s different on the 33s, but my 32 Dodge Brothers DL has two bearings on each axle and you have to pull the outer bearing race out to get the axle out.  I had to use a slide puller to get it out.

 

Sounds the same. Pulling the axle should pull out the outer bearing race.

 

Not sure about putting the drums on "backwards" as they probably won't go on very far because of the taper. I just put on the drum and loosely put on the hub nut. Probably not as good as a slide puller, but it gave me something big enough to grab with my hands to pull on which was enough for me and my car. YMMV.

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When I rebuilt my 34 rear I used a slide hammer to pull axles and inner bearing races and inner oil seals.  I went to a bearing and seal store and picked up new modern seals and timkin bearings.  My rear has the shims behind the inner race so I installed everything with no shims, used a dial indicator on magnetic base to figure out the end play.  Local sheet metal shop lazered me out the correct shim for each side out of shim stock and I put back together.  The butter grease seal I took apart the original sheet metal one and pressed in a new seal I got from bearing and seal store.  The sheet metal housing I turned to side on a lathe for the proper press fit of the skf seal.  I believe the 33 is basically the same except the 33 shims the brake backing plate for proper axle end play.

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6 hours ago, rageracing said:

When I rebuilt my 34 rear I used a slide hammer to pull axles and inner bearing races and inner oil seals.  I went to a bearing and seal store and picked up new modern seals and timkin bearings.  My rear has the shims behind the inner race so I installed everything with no shims, used a dial indicator on magnetic base to figure out the end play.  Local sheet metal shop lazered me out the correct shim for each side out of shim stock and I put back together.  The butter grease seal I took apart the original sheet metal one and pressed in a new seal I got from bearing and seal store.  The sheet metal housing I turned to side on a lathe for the proper press fit of the skf seal.  I believe the 33 is basically the same except the 33 shims the brake backing plate for proper axle end play.

+1 on that, the local shop had all mine in stock...

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tried to get axles out of the housing, they would not budge. 

 

I used the method of putting the drum housing on the axle, put the nut on snug, tapped the back of the drum with a hammer. 

 

would not come out, I think I am going to take it to the axle shop and have them go through it. I want to do it my self, but to busy to get to it + professionals and warranty is a good thing to have. 

 

 

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Try putting the drum on loosely with no key and then slamming the drum back on the bolt - I used a large washer to protect the bolt.  All you are trying to do is get the outer bearing race free.  Hitting the drum won’t work.  Sliding it toward you with a hammering motion will.  I’ve done it many times.  Make sure the backing plates are off and the seals are off.  You should be able to see the outer race and the bearing at the end of the axel housing.  As you work the drum, you will see the race easing out of the housing.

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11 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Try putting the drum on loosely with no key and then slamming the drum back on the bolt - I used a large washer to protect the bolt.  All you are trying to do is get the outer bearing race free.  Hitting the drum won’t work.  Sliding it toward you with a hammering motion will.  I’ve done it many times.  Make sure the backing plates are off and the seals are off.  You should be able to see the outer race and the bearing at the end of the axel housing.  As you work the drum, you will see the race easing out of the housing.

is there just one race bearing on the outer part or is there an inner bearing also? 

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5 minutes ago, Sactownog said:

is there just one race bearing on the outer part or is there an inner bearing also? 

 

There is an inner bearing but you need to pull the axle out to get to the seat (the bearing cone comes out on the axle shaft.

 

Get a copy of the instruction manual for the car, it has a diagram that will help you a lot.

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The axel and the outer race come out together, as ply33 states.  The axel will have two bearings on it, back to back, with a small ridge on the axel separating them.  The bearings are a real pain to get off the axel, but at least it’s out.  This leaves the inner bearing race and the inner seal still in the axel housing.  You need a three-jaw slide puller to get the race out and this process will tear up the inner seal.  Fun, huh?

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3 hours ago, Taylormade said:

The axel and the outer race come out together, as ply33 states.  The axel will have two bearings on it, back to back, with a small ridge on the axel separating them.  The bearings are a real pain to get off the axel, but at least it’s out.  This leaves the inner bearing race and the inner seal still in the axel housing.  You need a three-jaw slide puller to get the race out and this process will tear up the inner seal.  Fun, huh?

 

Yep. And last I checked you can't get the inner seals anymore. At the very least, have the new seals in hand (if you've found a source) before you try pulling out the inner race. It may be a case of looking carefully at that inner bearing race and see if it is okay. Maybe you can just leave well enough alone.

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i just dropped off the Axle this AM.

 

The whole unit spins well, but leaks quite a bit.

 

Oceanside Drive line has it here in San Diego. 

I figure I will let them tell me what is needed from a professional standpoint. 

 

some things I can get into and repair but on something as rare as this Dodge, its best to let the old time wisdom take the lead. 

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I NEED A NEW YOKE, aparently the old seal went bad and it wore out the yoke. does anyone know where I can get a stock yoke for a 1933 DODGE DP6? 

 

or is this something I should just look into getting a new updated rear end that will work for my car.???

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If it just wore a groove in the yoke where the seal rides (and that's the only thing wrong), go to a bearing store with the yoke in your hand and ask if they have a "speedi-sleeve" to fit your current yoke.

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update: https://www.oldmoparts.com/ did not process my credit card when I placed my order for some reason. they said they process when material is about to ship (dumb) so I am waiting to find out when parts will be shipped so I can pay them. 

 

I found out my rear end is geared with 4:37 gear ratio. I am hopeful that will work well with my new overdrive transmission from George Asche. 

 

I am not 100% sure my shifter will work with the shift links that came with new transmission, but that will get worked out when I get the transmission back in the car in a few months. 

 

 

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