Clutch problems 1921 Dodge touring

[Nino Fabbro]

Gear grinding,

[Nino Fabbro]

I have pulled the transmission, down to the throw out bearing, pressure plate, and clutches, everything seems ok.  Any suggestions as to why grinding so bad and changing gears is impossible.

[Graham Man]

What are you using for gear oil?  I put 600W (steam cylinder oil) in my 1928.  What I was told is the thick oil slows down the moving parts so the gears will mesh, all I know is it shifts pretty easy now.  Using that logic, thin oil, the gears would never slow down enough to change gears?

[keiser31]

Do you shift like a normal, newer car or do you take time between gears so that they will align better? Do you double clutch while shifting?

[RAH]

Nino, Actually on the '21 DB the correct lube for the transmission would be 'Semi-Fluid Grease' or 1500 wt gear oil. On those early DB trannys the countershaft assy. is physically disconnected from the input shaft and the lube must be of sufficient viscosity to cause motion to those lower gears or especially downshifting will be difficult or nearly impossible.  There is a 'Fill to' note on the side of the reverse idler plate on the left side of the transmission case. Not the very top bolt but either of the next one down. That should be within 1" of the input shaft assy. The same lube should be in the differential. Good Luck.

Edited May 28, 2019 by RAH (see edit history)

[cahartley]

It may SEEM impossible but you need to take your time between gears, especially 2nd to 3rd.

The lighter the transmission oil is the worse it gets....... 

Speed shifting is impossible.

[Nino Fabbro]

On 5/28/2019 at 9:35 AM, RAH said:

Nino, Actually on the '21 DB the correct lube for the transmission would be 'Semi-Fluid Grease' or 1500 wt gear oil. On those early DB trannys the countershaft assy. is physically disconnected from the input shaft and the lube must be of sufficient viscosity to cause motion to those lower gears or especially downshifting will be difficult or nearly impossible.  There is a 'Fill to' note on the side of the reverse idler plate on the left side of the transmission case. Not the very top bolt but either of the next one down. That should be within 1" of the input shaft assy. The same lube should be in the differential. Good Luck.

Thanks

 

On 5/28/2019 at 9:18 AM, keiser31 said:

Do you shift like a normal, newer car or do you take time between gears so that they will align better? Do you double clutch while shifting?

 

On 5/28/2019 at 9:35 AM, RAH said:

Nino, Actually on the '21 DB the correct lube for the transmission would be 'Semi-Fluid Grease' or 1500 wt gear oil. On those early DB trannys the countershaft assy. is physically disconnected from the input shaft and the lube must be of sufficient viscosity to cause motion to those lower gears or especially downshifting will be difficult or nearly impossible.  There is a 'Fill to' note on the side of the reverse idler plate on the left side of the transmission case. Not the very top bolt but either of the next one down. That should be within 1" of the input shaft assy. The same lube should be in the differential. Good Luck.

Going to try this

[Nino Fabbro]

I stripped it right down to the clutches and throw out bearing. Everything returned back, and still the same result. I thought fixing some

spots that needed to be upgraded would help. Will try to find the 1500 oil. Thanks again everyone. I appreciate the help.

 

[Chris Bamford]

Semi-fluid grease should work fine. Penrite Oil is one manufacturer of this, try a vintage motorcycle parts/service vendor.

 

I have generally mixed up my own equivalent to the commercial stuff... start with a tube of the red or blue sticky waterproof chassis grease (I use a Shell product), scoop it into a mixing container with a bit of motor oil, then stir in dollops of conventional rear end lube until the potion is uniformly mixed and just viscous enough to barely flow.

 

This concoction has served me well for years in my 1912 KisselKar transmission and the Warford accessory over/underdrive in my "24 T Speedster.  It does flow a bit quicker when warm of course, and greatly reduces leakage past shafts, shifter rods, etc.

 

Both of these cars will shift smoothly up and down without using the clutch pedal. All it takes is the right sort of lube and the right timing (which will come with practice).  As others have said, you can't be in a hurry with the shifter. Naturally, downshifts will require a blip of the throttle as you pass thru neutral.

 

it"s a nice boost for the ego when you can go thru the gears from first on up to top and back down without ever touching the clutch!