Morgan Wright

1918 E-49 starter/generator restoration job

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Posted (edited)

This morning I took the starter out of my E-49, it wasn't difficult at all. Yesterday I took the starter out of my spare E-49 for a practice run.

 

I am taking them to Day's Repair in Kinderhook, NY for refurbishment. All they do is repair generators and starters all day.

 

After this I'll be able to start the car for the first time in 80 years.

 

 

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Edited by Morgan Wright
error (see edit history)
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Have you checked for continuity on the primary and secondary circuits on the 'mailbox' coil?

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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More accurate multimeter says:

 

Primary winding 1 ohm

Secondary winding 2010 ohms

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Interesting that one distributor has been converted to more modern points. A good idea considering the cost and availability of originals - and no one would know

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That's the spare engine, it also has a water pump that looks like something taken off a rot-gut "family secret" mill during prohibition.

 

It's getting parted out, Tom Black has the head, other parts remain.....block, crank, rods etc.

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On the spare engine I intend to build, there is a broken rocker stanchion and a cracked rocker arm.

 

Do you have them as spares you'd sell?

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Yes I do. Two of each. Give me time to take pics for your approval.

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Here are the 2 rocker stanchions I have.

 

There are 2 exhaust rocker arms, 1 front intake rocker arm, and 1 rear intake rocker arms.

 

On one stanchion I removed the red paint with bulldog because I was going to use it to replace one on my car that was welded decades ago, but decided not to because they did a good weld job.

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This starter generator has 5 brushes. 3 for the generator and 2 for the motor. A guy on ebay has them for $145 but no way I'm paying that, so I took all the brushes out of my 3 generator/motors and am using the longest of each one. Between the 3 there are enough decent brushes for the 5 spots. 

 

 

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Today the starter/generator was finished at the repair shop (he owns a shop where all they repair is alternators generators and starters all day) finished my starter on Jughead. It's the oldest one he has ever worked on and he's been there since 1984. He had no source for new brushes for a starter that old, and the guy selling the set of brushes on ebay for $145 has to find a new sucker, I'm not paying that kind of money for brushes. What I did was take all the brushes out of the two spare starters I have (one from my spare E-49 one from a 1919 K-49), he took all the brushes out of Jughead's starter,  we compared them all and put the best brushes in the 5 spots in Jughead's starter. Some of the brushes were pretty good and barely worn, and I had a few new ones I got on ebay. There were 4 different size brushes.

 

1 upper starter brush

1 lower starter brush

2 generator brushes both the same

1 "third" generator brush

 

So 4 different brushes for 5 spots. I have one spare starter from my spare car and a really rusty and seized starter full of mud, etc. Believe it or not, 2 of the best brushes were in that really bad starter. It seems that graphite never decomposes over time.

 

Anyway, after oiling Jughead's starter, putting new insulation on some of the wires, hooking it up to 6V, he got the generator to motor, and then pushed in the plunger and WOOOOO WOOOOO WOOOOO that starter was cranking for the first time in 80 years!  Then he spun the generator on his mill and it made enough juice to turn a light on. 

 

In just a short while I'll have the car running.

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It cranks the engine nicely. Now to time it, attach everything, and put some gas in.

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I'm going to run new ignition wires down the conduit from the dashboard first. These have slightly cracked insulation, not good. There is a circuit breaker for the headlight circuit but none for the ignition wires, can't risk a short. Looking around for black cloth-covered 14 gauge.

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Thanks. I bought 8 feet of heat shrink to insulate the original wires. Now it's all safe.

 

I left the parts of the wires that show in the engine compartment exposed, so it looks original. 

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The generator "motors" but only when you give it a shove to get it started. Of the 5 times I "motored" it, it only started on its own once. The other times I had to use a screwdriver to push the drive teeth to make it start. What's wrong with it?

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Did the place that you took it to go completely through it?  One possibility is the brushes.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Maybe I can take the brushes out and file them clean again with a rat tail file. I can kick start the thing now that it's all apart, but not when I get it all back together. 

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Morgan

   Did you clean the generator commutator.  You do not need to clean the starter commutator because the brushes are harder,  but the generator commutator  needs to be cleaned using a broken hacksaw blade.    Hugh

 

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Posted (edited)

Wow! I guess I'll be slotting some mica tomorrow. Thanks Hugh!

 

I have to take the starter out tomorrow anyway. The distributor is off by one gear tooth. When I move the generator so the distributor rotor points to #1 on the cap, and align the taper pin on the shaft, it's off by the tiniest amount, I want to be able to advance and retard the distributor around the #1 button, with the engine at 7 before top dead center #1:

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Edited by Morgan Wright (see edit history)

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Posted (edited)

Morgan, 

   I did have a little trouble finding a fine tooth and narrow hack saw blade in my tool box, but they are out there.

    I just rotated the distributor and pointed the rotor at #1 roughly.  Then I found it easier to use a 12 volt timing light powered from a battery and clipped on number 1.   Also that factory mark is 7 degrees AFTER TDC.  I was informed to make a mark 7 degrees Before TDC and use that for when the spark lever is all the way up (for starting).  Better performance will be the benefit, but you can't use the hand crank for starting.  Your call.  

 

Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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