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What grade engine oil for '54 Special ?


91vert

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I realise everyone has a favorite but need advice.

'54 Special with 65,000 miles, been sitting in unheated garage close to the ocean, not started in 16 years.

Have owned since '86. Manual states down to 34 F use 20 W.

I can't remember but thought that I would have used 30 W or 10-30 W.

Suggestions on oil grade, detergent, non-detergent ?

Have dropped gas tank and will clean out, had 10 gal. of very dirty gas.

Will clean out carb if need be.

Is there anything else I should do before start up ? Change tranny oil ? Tranny oil still red.

Have turned over engine with socket on crank and not stuck.

Any help appreciated.

 

Cal

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I use 10W-30 Lucas Classic Car oil.   However,  I have used off the shelf brand 10W-30.   Since the engine has sat for 16 years it may be prudent to drop the oil pan and clean out what is stuck on the bottom.   But, why not get it started and see how it runs  before going knee deep into it.   

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A 30 grade oil would be good choice for your engine and using a multigrade (0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-30) would allow all-season use.  The Corvair Oil Guide has a lot of good information for flat tappet engines and recommends the use of heavy duty engine oils.  HDEOs have detergents to keep your engine sludge-free and the dispersants keep the crud in suspension.  See Engine Wear.

 

If you're looking for specific recommendation, I like using Petro-Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 (easy to find in Canada) because it uses the same additive package as the 15W-40 grade that is approved for API CK-4/SN and Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 (1000-1200 ppm of phosphorus). Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 is a good alternative because it's also approved for Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 but only API CK-4.

 

As for transmission oil, there is no harm in changing it but it is high temperatures that are damaging.  If you have a maintenance schedule, I would go by distance and change it when it's due.

 

The corrosion inhibitors in coolant definitely get consumed over time so I would do a coolant flush & fill.  See Cooling System.

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Thank's for the replies.

As it turns out we put 30 W In it and filter.

Tank is too far gone, will need a new on. Anybody know where to find one ?  Had a line on one but can't find my notes now.

Cranked it over to lube it up before putting the coil wire back on and feed it gas from a water bottle and it did fire up after a bit, ran shitty but it ran.

Need carb kit, who would be a good source, Kanter's ?

 

There was some tranny fluid leaky from ring gear location at first then it went away.

Might not get back to it for a while but satisfied with results so far.

Old Tank it was originally  parked because life got in the way.

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91vert: We would recommend

 

1) Using this source for the carb rebuild parts for a multiple of reasons http://www.daytonaparts.com/kits.html

 

 2) Ideally, either recondition and reuse your original leather accelerator push rod get your hands on a leather replacement accelerator plunger and not a -plastic one. 

 

3) Get your hands on 5 gallons of real gas not ethanol gas to do your startup after rebuilding the carb to spec as ethanol has a way of changing the fuel volumetric's to that of real gas that the original carb was spec'ed for.  Makes getting everything set right before you put it into service then you can either recurve the distributor or tweak the idle circuit to accommodate the gas-o-hol volumetric's by way of adding an electric pusher pump near the gas tank.

 

... just a few nods of advice.

 

 

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Thanks Buick Man and Kestrel for the info.

 

Tanks Inc. was the tank vendor I was thinking about.

They have 4 different model tanks for this year that may need minor modifications to install.

Anyone tried a tank from them ?

 

Cal.

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