Edwin The Kid

1951 Super Engine Removal Help

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Posted (edited)

I've decided to pull the engine from my super, what is the best way to go about doing that? Other than the 2 mounting points easily visible from the top, what else do I have to unbolt to remove it? Do I also have to unbolt the dynaflow transmission before pulling the engine? 

Edited by Edwin The Kid (see edit history)

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I'm no expert here but from what I've read on prior posts, its certainly possible to remove the entire tranny with engine  attached but only with adequate lifting power. Your average shop crane would be pushing it. Rigging experience with heavy objects would be helpful as well. 

Search old posts on this site and you should find all  such information. Others with actual experience may chime in as well. Good luck.

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If you have not freed up the motor then it may be helpful to keep it in the car a while.  The reason is because it would be easier to access the flywheel with a pinch bar, as Willie ( old Tank) suggested,  to work the engine free.  At a minimum there will be three bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate and you need to access those to disconnect the Dynaflow from the engine.  If you can't access those then there are other means to get it out, but it means disassembling the bottom of the motor to do so.  

 

If you cannot get the torque converter unbolted then you can pull the engine and trans as a unit.  The best thing to do is to remove the top grill bar, grill, radiator and top radiator support, and then you should have enough space to pull the engine and trans forward and up as a unit. 

 

Keep in mind that you also have to unbolt the torque tube from the rear of the transmission and you have to unbolt the transmission from it's mount,  plus unbolt and drop the piece of sub frame the mount is bolted to.  Once the rear axle is disconnected from the trans,  the rear axle can get dislodged if you try to move the vehicle. 

 

You also have to disconnect the oil pressure gauge and coolant temperature gauge lines on the engine.  The coolant gauge is not a wire.  It is a tube, that is connected to the gauge on the interior side - and the sender that is in the engine block- on the other. If that is mishandled, the tube will break, rendering the dash board temp gauge useless.  Many break.  they are repairable, which is not cheap,  and there are still some in circulation to replace it, but not easy to find. 

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