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1995 buick Riviera question


Chargrow0309

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So my 95 buick riviera supercharged had the supercharger taken off for a new gasket but now the alternator doesn't charge the system, so I replaced the alternator and it didn't fix the problem, but before I changed the sc gasket it would kill/break batteries I went through 3 batteries on my warranty that had broken connections inside the battery. I have showered the internet for a while but haven't been able to find any information theres no codes stored, when i drive it which is rare now it can drive for about 4 miles then the CEL light traction off light and abs light come on but turn off every time the car is shut off but no battery light, could it be the pcm or a voltage regulator?

 

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What makes you say the alternator does not charge the battery? If you drive it infrequently,  just how infrequent is that? I would suggest that a usage rate of once a month for less than an hour at a time, is insufficient to fully charge that 1000 amp battery.  And unless the battery was disconnected between driving episodes the pcm is likely draining it to the point it would need a boost to start the car. If the charging system light does not come on while in use, then the alternator should be working as designed. The light should come on as you turn the key to verify the bulb is good, right? 

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Put a voltmeter on the battery with the car running.  If it reads 14 to 14.7 volts, the alternator is working.  If over 14.7 volts the regulator is bad and may explain the battery issue -- however, broken internal battery connections are indicative of excessive shock/vibration.  Is the battery clamped securely in the tray?

 

It sounds to me that you have a wiring harness issue that was exacerbated by the gasket repair.  Get your shop manual, wiring diagram, voltmeter, test light and plan to spend an afternoon tracing the fault...

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What batteries were you having issues with?  In prior times, when batteries "broke", it was determined that the terminal lugs had issues, which caused battery acid migration into the battery cables, which also caused issues with acid leaks and such, not battery durability issues as such.

 

When a "dead" or "weak" battery is attached to a charging system, the alternator output will spike to "full output" and fry the regulator.  Make sure that ALL replacement batteries are fully charged when installed to prevent this alternator issue.  New batteries are not fully charged, but usually at 60% or so, which should be enough to start the vehicle and are later charged by the alternator to full charge.


 

The Traction Control and ABS systems are connected.  ABS is the system that handles the Traction Control system, via brake system intervention to control spinning wheels, individually.  So those two lights can be from the same source issue, possibly.  What are the codes for the CEL?  IF the CEL is lit, there has to be codes stored in the computer!  It will need a code scanner that is compatible with the '95 computer, though, which should be OBD I.  When it doubt, take it to the dealer for a full computer scan with the GM equipment.

 

I believe there should also be a scanner for the ABS brake system, too, which can have codes in it, too.

 

Back when we were having issues with Delco batteries leaking, the leaks always came from the terminal mounting lugs.  Those lugs should have been the same as with ALL other side-post batteries from other brands, which we later found out that some other brands were having those issues.  ONLY thing to cause those lugs go fissure would be related to the battery terminal bolts.  Either the threads in the lugs were not molded deep enough, the batch of bolts purchased for the terminals were a bit too long, or combinations thereof.  NOT to forget that "making sure those bolts were good and tight" could be contributing factors, too!  That leak situation went on for several years, then suddenly vanished as soon as it appeared.  NOBODY of any authority could explain why, just issue TSBs on what the results were (rusted battery trays, compromised cables, and such).

 

But the REAL question I have is why the supercharger gasket needed replacing?

 

Obviously, some wiring issues happened somewhere!  Either a wire got squished between two metal casings, compromising the insulation and shorting that circuit out.  Or connectors were not fully connected.  Or whatever else might compromise electrical circuits.  Take it to a good dealer and let them diagnose it.  Otherwise, you can throw money and parts at it with no real resolution of the issues.  Also, as mentioned, ONE issue can cause SEVERAL codes to be thrown.  Which can complicate things is you're just chasing codes, by observation.  So, get it to a good dealer and get it fixed.

 

NTX5467

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  • 2 months later...
On 5/11/2019 at 4:52 AM, JohnD1956 said:

What makes you say the alternator does not charge the battery? If you drive it infrequently,  just how infrequent is that? I would suggest that a usage rate of once a month for less than an hour at a time, is insufficient to fully charge that 1000 amp battery.  And unless the battery was disconnected between driving episodes the pcm is likely draining it to the point it would need a boost to start the car. If the charging system light does not come on while in use, then the alternator should be working as designed. The light should come on as you turn the key to verify the bulb is good, right? 

The light works and it doesn't come on while driving, I tied to drive it often but i am unable to due to it not charging the battery.

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On 5/11/2019 at 7:08 AM, NTX5467 said:

What batteries were you having issues with?  In prior times, when batteries "broke", it was determined that the terminal lugs had issues, which caused battery acid migration into the battery cables, which also caused issues with acid leaks and such, not battery durability issues as such.

 

When a "dead" or "weak" battery is attached to a charging system, the alternator output will spike to "full output" and fry the regulator.  Make sure that ALL replacement batteries are fully charged when installed to prevent this alternator issue.  New batteries are not fully charged, but usually at 60% or so, which should be enough to start the vehicle and are later charged by the alternator to full charge.


 

The Traction Control and ABS systems are connected.  ABS is the system that handles the Traction Control system, via brake system intervention to control spinning wheels, individually.  So those two lights can be from the same source issue, possibly.  What are the codes for the CEL?  IF the CEL is lit, there has to be codes stored in the computer!  It will need a code scanner that is compatible with the '95 computer, though, which should be OBD I.  When it doubt, take it to the dealer for a full computer scan with the GM equipment.

 

I believe there should also be a scanner for the ABS brake system, too, which can have codes in it, too.

 

Back when we were having issues with Delco batteries leaking, the leaks always came from the terminal mounting lugs.  Those lugs should have been the same as with ALL other side-post batteries from other brands, which we later found out that some other brands were having those issues.  ONLY thing to cause those lugs go fissure would be related to the battery terminal bolts.  Either the threads in the lugs were not molded deep enough, the batch of bolts purchased for the terminals were a bit too long, or combinations thereof.  NOT to forget that "making sure those bolts were good and tight" could be contributing factors, too!  That leak situation went on for several years, then suddenly vanished as soon as it appeared.  NOBODY of any authority could explain why, just issue TSBs on what the results were (rusted battery trays, compromised cables, and such).

 

But the REAL question I have is why the supercharger gasket needed replacing?

 

Obviously, some wiring issues happened somewhere!  Either a wire got squished between two metal casings, compromising the insulation and shorting that circuit out.  Or connectors were not fully connected.  Or whatever else might compromise electrical circuits.  Take it to a good dealer and let them diagnose it.  Otherwise, you can throw money and parts at it with no real resolution of the issues.  Also, as mentioned, ONE issue can cause SEVERAL codes to be thrown.  Which can complicate things is you're just chasing codes, by observation.  So, get it to a good dealer and get it fixed.

 

NTX5467

 i made sure that all the wires were connected in the correct spots using pictures taken before removing anything, i also cross referenced with a manual to make sure everything was correct.

Whenever they tried to pull codes for the CEL there was nothing pulled at the GM dealer i believe that could just be electrical charging issues causing it to act up. All the batteries that were put on the car were fully charged before put in i made sure of that as i thought that could have been causing it.As far as testing the charging system the alternator was tested on the table and put out around 13.7 and 13.9 so th alternator was good, Then once you applied the alternator to the car and tested the charging system it would say bad voltage regulator. i changed the alternator when i got it and the guy said that the positive wire on the alternator came off and shorted out on the engine block several times. Could this have fried the ECU? But the problem never showed up before never had any charging issues at all. and the supercharger gasket was changed because i had to change the coupler in the nose.

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