Help! Broken Stud Removal (Head Stud, broken in block)

[RoadsterRich]

Hey Gang, its me again...

Finally got over the lack of free time since (and the frustration of) the last round of work I did on the Roadster. As you may (or may not) recall when last I reported in one of the studs for the head broke while I was removing it. I am now preparing to try to extract the stud.

The stud broke (with virtually no force on it) flush with the top of the head.

The bottom of the stud goes in to the water jacket and there is well over an inch (possibly 2) of clearance beneath it.

The stud is 7/16" Coarse thread in the block, roughly 3/4" of the stud remains in the block.

What is the best method for removal of this stud?

I have been told that Rockporte (sp?) makes a spline extractor that is far superior to easy-outs. Is it really better and if so where is the best place to get one?

Is there a better tool/method to use for extracting this bolt?

I know the trick of center-punching the threaded part to get the drill centered, are there any tricks for keeping the drill straight?

Besides using oil when drilling, and using a reverse (left hand?) drill bit, is there any other useful drilling tricks?

Should I attempt to heat the stud piece before trying to remove it?

I have been soaking it in PB, is there anything else I should do while learning what I need to do to get it out?

Well that should be a good start on the questions and information, any thoughts, ideas, input or suggestions are gratefully accepted.

Rich

[Guest]

get a piece of steel about 1/4 or 1/2 inch thick that can be suitably bolted or clamped to the head over the broken stud. Now, drill a hole in the piece of steel about 3/32 diameter LESS that the size of the bolt. This will act as a drill guide for the drill to keep it centred in the stud. This same method is used to drill a hole in dis-similar materals such as the end of a steel shaft with Al. gear when a set screw is used for key. It will keep the drill from crawling off.

[Guest]

Put A Large Nut Over Broken Stud. Arc Weld Nut To Stud The Heat Will Loosen Stud And You Should Be Able To Put A Wrench On The Nut And Remove The Stud.

[KRK Sr.]

Rich, I can tell you that the welded nut worked for me on 3 broken ones on a '76 Rolls, V8 ... After welding I let it sit for about 2 min. to let the heat go down the stud. I also sprayed aroud the nut with penitrating oil. It worked well on all three. KRK Sr.

[Guest COMPACTBC]

What if the stud is broken off EVEN or BELOW so there is nothing sticking above the surface where it broke of???

[Guest]

if its severely corroded (which is probably why it twisted off) then it will have to be either heated cherry red (if warpage is not an issue) or drilled out.

[Guest]

Mike West posted a really neat idea on this subject several months ago. Drill your stud for easy-out usage, or arc weld the bolt on top IF there is space, WHATEVER, but then heat the metal AROUND the stud, and when very hot, touch the area with a candle, and allow capillary action (like when you sweat solder copper tubing) to draw the wax down into the areas between the stud and hole threads. REportedly the wax will lubricate the area, allowing the stud to be turned loose and removed. Mike SWEARS that this will work every time.

[RoadsterRich]

Okay, on the 'weld a nut' method, I have a question. Can I use a slightly smaller diameter thread on the nut to weld on to the stud? This one is broken dead flush with the head and I am very nervous about welding the nut to the block instead of the bolt. I figure if I use a slightly smaller one then I am less likely to weld the stud and nut to the block. Assuming I go this route I just have to get better at welding or find someone that is

Rich

[RoadsterRich]

Oops, should have read all the posts before starting to respond.

The point where the stud broke appears to have crystalized. It doesn't show so much rust type corrosion as it does more of what I would think of as fatique. I know the head had been repaired in the past, and the block looks like it has been rebuilt at least once. I suspect that the head has been off more than once in the past.

Rich

[KRK Sr.]

Rich , one of the Rolls nuts was below the block also. I started by welding a "button" on the stud, Then setting a large nut on top and welding it to the button and stud. Keep in mind weld will not like Cast iron as much as the stud and should not be a problem with a steady hand. If it wont move at first, Just add more weld to the top of the nut, Afterall what you are trying to do is create heat sink down the stud. Once this happens it wont take much of a wrench to turn it out, even if you are not a great welder?? This is why "time is ok" after you weld. Good luck! KRK Sr.

[nearchoclatetown]

these are all good ideas. if you are going to use the plate[1\2 inch or so] use a big enough plate that you can use another good head stud to hold it in place or c-clamp it in place. borrow a magnetic base drill if you can. they sit on top of the block andwill stay perpendicular to top. if you're going to weld the nut on the brocken stud, have someone tig weld it for you. it will be much more precise and controlable than stick welding. most of all don't be scared, it's only a piece of metal and it can be fixed.if you ruin the thread you can still put a threaded insert or helicoil in it, but that's another thread.

[Guest COMPACTBC]

Any suggestions for a broken water pump bolt in a Buick 401 Nailhead? Broke two of them last Sunday, one is flush with the timing chain cover and the other has about a 1/4 inch sticking out from the t/c cover. Timing chain cover is aluminum.

[nearchoclatetown]

all the above. the process is the same.