Painting wire wheels

[broker-len]

I have asked about this before,,,,  wire wheels in good condition,,,, allot of people suggest     POWER COATING,,,   first the expense and I just do not want to hand them over to some one else     that leaves painting    using Epoxy paint,,,,just do not see how I can do a good job on and in back of the spokes with a regular paint gun          ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,have been advised to use     AIR BRUSH    never used one ,,but it does not hold allot of paint     /???????  I have sand blasted two of them    use play sand on the grass  that gets expensive blowing through the sand,,,,,,,, one friend suggest to just use a brush       looking for advise from others---------------------------thanks in advance------------------bobnroman@yahoo.com

[John Kelso]

The key is spinning them. At first(dar ages) I used a rotisserie motor  from a grill then adapted a vintage home clothing press. been using it for nearly 40years

[Walt G]

Air Brush, with epoxy paint? I think the paint would be to thick for the tiny air brush nozzle no matter how much you thin the paint down. An Air brush is for very small areas to touch up or do art work with ( lacquer or water based paint)  I use one sometimes to get small areas on pre WWII era toys I restore but usually paint with a smaller "door jamb gun" spray gun ( available at Harbor Freight)  for stuff I paint which is small parts/ toys.   I can't make big clouds of paint over spray dust in the neighborhood I live in. Probably is cheaper to take the wheels to a restorer whose work you have seen and if you bring them to him totally stripped and in primer that has been sanded he may only have to mount them one at a time  to his . Have you ever painted with a spray gun before  ( I am not talking about a rattle can) ? Do you have a compressor that will keep up with the volume of air you require for the spray gun and at the pressure you need ?

[jrbartlett]

Keep in mind that we aren't talking about rapid spinning. Just a slow turn that gives you access to all parts of the wheel and prevents runs in the paint. Couple revolutions per minute. 20+ years ago when we painted my Auburn's wheels we just turned them by hand. Mounted them onto a cross plate bolted in place on a husky threaded rod and suspended the rod between a pair of jack stands on tables, so the wheels were at chest height. Perfect for spraying. Clamped a vise grip to the rod and used that to turn the wheel. Did one at a time. Only took 10-15 minutes of turning before the paint and hardener set up. Used a small Binks paint gun -- not the big Devilbus. Used acrylic enamel paint with a hardener and anti-wrinkle agent. Really stacked the paint on to fill in the pits. Worked beautifully. Of course everything has changed now -- the paint chemistry (and toxicity), paint guns and even the air compressors. Prep work included sandblasting, priming, filling and sanding, but not all that much. Can't really do much of that with thin wire spokes.

[1937hd45]

First off THANK YOU! Glad the whole world hasn't gone power coat crazy, if you like the look of fake things PC is your thing, real men paint things. I made a fixture 40+ years ago out of old Model A & T parts to hold the wheel while I turned it by hand. Painting the back of the spokes first is the key to full coverage. Practice with primer, red primer works best on blasted parts, it allows you to see what is covered. 

 

Bob

Edited April 18, 2019 by 1937hd45 (see edit history)

[keiser31]

A slight correction if I may.....it's "powder" coat (because they use powder). Not "power" coat. I know....picky, picky, picky....

Edited April 18, 2019 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[Mark Simmons]

My two coppers worth says weigh the cost and time involvement of painting vs powder coating. Then the longevity of the finish product paint vs powder coat. I think when you weigh all the factors, everything from prep to cleanup with either method the answer should be clear to you. Personally I'd go with the powder coating done by a good shop but then again it's not my project or decision. Good luck whichever way you choose.

[Akstraw]

I just had mine blasted and painted using standard automotive basecoat/clearcoat.  They look fantastic!  A downside to powder is how to touch-up when you encounter the inevitable chip , curb rash, or tire mounting damage.  I agree with the recommendation on spinning.  Even a manual driven lazy-susan would suffice.  It lets you get various angles to spray into all the 'nooks and crannies.'

[Graham Man]

I did a set for my Graham (6) 

     1. Wheel spinner, I used a saw horse as a base, 1" shaft, bicycle chain, welded plates with 3 studs to hold the wheels, I had to reduce the speed considerably.  

                    One lesson I learned, do not stop the spinner till dry!  THAT was a lot of sanding for that mistake.

     2.  Most of the paint goes on from the back side of the wheel.  I used three angles to get paint on everything from the back, then two angles from the front.  I planned out the gun angle and distance then timed it to the rotation of the wheel, mine was about 3 seconds for the wheel to rotate 360 degrees.

     3.  I used zinc chromate primer on the bare metal (great time to practice your gun angles) scuff before color. 

     4. I used acrylic enamel two light coats then a gloss coat....yes that is a hand painted pin stripe 11/16 wide, free hand, my friend is a sign artist, he is awesome.  If you get picky the 4 rings on the hub cap should be black, maybe this summer.  It is the original 33-1 Graham color combination (fawn and Woodfield green)

 

Edited April 18, 2019 by Graham Man (see edit history)

[ron hausmann]

Broker-len 

In order to assure a durable, complete, and long-lasting result, I have my wire wheels first sandblasted and immediately powder coated with a close matched color by a professional shop. That really isn't expensive here, and assures a good protective bond/undercoat. Then I apply the finish paint coat(s) OVER the initial powder coating in the amount required for excellent, smooth results. I use an old axle with front hub at chest-height for this finish painting. I turn by hand. Results are Concours ready.

Good luck. RON HAUSMANN P.E. 

[broker-len]

thank you Ron   I do have extra axel and drum         not sure I could keep it spinning and painting at same time    how do you do it ?       do you use regular paint gun ?????????????

[Paul Dobbin]

6 hours ago, jrbartlett said:

Keep in mind that we aren't talking about rapid spinning. Just a slow turn that gives you access to all parts of the wheel and prevents runs in the paint. Couple revolutions per minute. 20+ years ago when we painted my Auburn's wheels we just turned them by hand. Mounted them onto a cross plate bolted in place on a husky threaded rod and suspended the rod between a pair of jack stands on tables, so the wheels were at chest height. Perfect for spraying. Clamped a vise grip to the rod and used that to turn the wheel. Did one at a time. Only took 10-15 minutes of turning before the paint and hardener set up. Used a small Binks paint gun -- not the big Devilbus. Used acrylic enamel paint with a hardener and anti-wrinkle agent. Really stacked the paint on to fill in the pits. Worked beautifully. Of course everything has changed now -- the paint chemistry (and toxicity), paint guns and even the air compressors. Prep work included sandblasting, priming, filling and sanding, but not all that much. Can't really do much of that with thin wire spokes.

  That's what I do.   I built a verticle 1/2" axle with a lawn mower or wagon wheel & tire mounted on the top of the axle.  Put your wheel on the wagon tire and slowly tun it as you paint the back of the wheel with attention to the back side of the spoke at the hub, then turn it over and do the front the same way.  Paint the rim inside & out last.   Don rush it.

Edited April 18, 2019 by Paul Dobbin (see edit history)

[1937hd45]

6 hours ago, keiser31 said:

A slight correction if I may.....it's "powder" coat (because they use powder). Not "power" coat. I know....picky, picky, picky.…

Spell check didn't catch that. Bob 

[broker-len]

Paul,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Seems like you are talking about painting the wheel in a horizontal position        seems most posts are talking about vertical

[Paul Dobbin]

28 minutes ago, broker-len said:

Paul,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Seems like you are talking about painting the wheel in a horizontal position        seems most posts are talking about vertical

Yes horizontal, but don't get your fan of spray to wide.  (For me, up and down spraying feels un-natural and makes it harder to keep my distance from the wheel consistent)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

yes, horizontal

[nickelroadster]

Epoxy is a good choice for a primer but not for a topcoat.  Epoxies do not take to uv protection as regular automotive paint does.  As others have said, just use something that will turrn the wheels as you paint and be sure to paint from all sides.

[Terry Bond]

My experience is painting wood spoke wheels, but the technique should be the same.  As has already been mentioned, for good coverage all around, paint from all sides-especially the back.  I used one of the small touch up gun for better control.  I had a spare container ready to go for a quick-chance on my final coat of black and found there was sufficient paint to do two wheels.  To spin them, as others have suggested, I used a couple of pieces of angle iron and mounted spare spindles in them, then mounted wheels on some spare bearing sets I had. I mounted my iron "axle" in my old Black and Decker workmate.   I spun them by hand by simply sticking a finger into the valve stem hole and giving them a pull.  It kept them moving just fine while I painted.  With this method I could stop and inspect my work as I painted to ensure good coverage.   A few more turns spinning while the paint set up was all that was needed. Great results, and I'm sure the advice you've received so far would be valuable to you in doing it yourself. 

I have no experience with powder coated wheels personally but do know some who have had problems while touring.  Powder coating adds some thickness, and that thickness of material can crack and chip under the pressure of lugnuts.  If you do choose powder coating,  just be sure your lug nuts stay tight.

[broker-len]

thank you all----------------since I do have a spare axel and break drum        I will use that method

[Paul Dobbin]

The problem with using a brake drum is that it covers to much of the back of the wheel when you are spraying it.

Wire wheels need to be painted from the back and the brake drum defeats that.  You need to be able to paint  the

full wheel on both sides.

[broker-len]

great point-----------------------I have another idea

[1937hd45]

30 minutes ago, broker-len said:

great point-----------------------I have another idea

Just use a front hub. Bob 

[broker-len]

I understand it is quite hard to remove it from the drum          I will try       have another idea to use the front crank pully

[broker-len]

how is the hub separated from the drum ????    press it apart    ????

[Pilgrim65]

Posting as I’ve just had some powder coated 

from experience I’ve noted , that for a good finish your original wheels have to be in reasonable shape , ie free from rust , scratches or dents , as powder coating dos nt cover as well as a few  coats of paint . However powder coating is better than the ones I e tried painting with aerosol can and particularly better than chrome in a can.

So I think the local paint shop or powder coating shop wins for me as I don’t have the skill or the equipment to sand blast or dip for paint removal and the means to spray to good finish . However I know there are members of this board who have these in house skills and I am constantly amazed by the restoration accomplishments displayed on here. My powder coated chrome effect ( 1937hd45 perhaps my wife doesn’t mind my slight change of gender😁)

Edited April 20, 2019 by Pilgrim65 (see edit history)

[1937hd45]

If you are happy that is all that counts, I just can't stand to look at adjustable spoke wheels with the powder gobbed around the adjustment nipples. Bob 

[Pilgrim65]

4 minutes ago, 1937hd45 said:

If you are happy that is all that counts, I just can't stand to look at adjustable spoke wheels with the powder gobbed around the adjustment nipples. Bob 

Being honest , I  haven’t the experience to consider that issue and didn’t even notice  on the examples I saw before I proceeded , I just like the toned down chrome effect and considering the cost is only 1/3 of new wheels I am satisfied .

[John_Mereness]

Powder coating a wheel around here (Cincinnati, OH) is generally about $65.00 to $85.00 - super nice process, durability, and ....

[sftamx1]

I've tried both methods,for me powder coat gives superior coverage and finish. Your wheels need to be free of pitting however.....

[John_Mereness]

17 hours ago, sftamx1 said:

I've tried both methods,for me powder coat gives superior coverage and finish. Your wheels need to be free of pitting however.....

A good reminder- usually after I have wheels dipped, I go over to the shop and do whatever handwork is needed to the rims - If powder coating it pays to look real close at rims prior to paint process as process really does not "fill" any imperfections.