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brushF26

Transmission project

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So my 2018 winter project of disassembling and inspecting the transmission due to lack of power really turned into a 2019 spring project. Thought I would post my project as I go along in hopes others with more experience than me can give me some advice. So the transmission  , at least to me, doesn't feel like it ever fully engages. And  the car has always lacked enough power to drive it up on a trailer. With years of helpful advice , and getting my transmission to work to begin with , from John I have done a lot to the engine such as new piston and rings, bored, adjusted the timing every way imaginable, different plugs ,etc. So over the winter I had the coil redone and the gentleman suggested I switch to 12v . Not that its gonna give me a noticeable increase in power but it will give me a much better spark for better combustion  and maybe a slight increase in power . So now with the weather finally better I was able to spend enough time on the garage floor to get the transmission out ( not a fun project on my own)  . Tonight I will start the disassembly of the transmission. Basically I am just taking it apart to look for oxidation on the plates, check the thickness of the plates and look for any abnormal wear. Any suggestions from anybody would be greatly appreciated. More pictures to follow as I get deeper into this project.

Car1.jpg

car2.jpg

car3.jpg

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Got most everything apart last night . Going to clean everything this weekend and inspect all the parts. I did notice there is some oxidation on the bronze and steel plates. Any suggestions on how to clean that off? The manuals from way back then say to use emery cloth. What should I be looking for as to what the thickness of the bronze plates should be and also the steel plates ?  Scott

Transmission1.jpg

Transmission2.jpg

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So I got the transmission all disassembled and inspected and cleaned all the parts. Reassembled and now just have to get it back in the car. Did not find any issues at all as far as I could see.   Now moving on to the next step and that is ensuring the teeth are properly aligned ensuring the valves are opening and closing at the right time because with my lack of power it has been suggested that while the car runs at idle speed that maybe its off by one tooth and then when I get to higher RPMs the intake or exhaust valve is open a bit and i am losing compression hence the lack of power when driving the car.  In order to do this I had to take the front of the engine off. Going to again inspect everything but most importantly make sure the gears are aligned. Also going to remove the cylinder cap and valve caps and clean and inspect all that also. The bronze gear had black paint markings on it that correlate with the exhaust and intake valve opening and a stamped X correlating with both valves being fully closed. I do not know how they aligned with the gear on the crank before I took it apart and can only assume I need to find some way to ensure things stay in position and line up correctly when I reassemble  Any suggestions would be appreciated. 569984521_Engine4.jpg.883da9beb85386c1b4d5c7187a4b14e7.jpg1415825151_Engine6.PNG.be683877494e48a23bce3f5c258b3a67.PNG1350542573_Engine5.jpg.b913610f1bd86cf73eccdc670be9f0c8.jpg856711046_Engine3.jpg.bae9be6d38e6216bf66bc9d5b3d5f585.jpg1485985103_Engine2.jpg.64133a8e24035a85cd3b838d3f396743.jpg1683489442_Engine1.jpg.13471694f5788afb3477b65b08c20fac.jpg

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Brush engine timing with piston on top dead center the dot on timing gear should be on top.   Both valves closed at TDC.     What type of oil are you using in your transmission ?   You should be using   30 weight. Motor oil.   Goog luck with your project!     Cheers  Paul 

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