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V12 Lifter?


Cokekid

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I purchased this rebuilt engine with some spare parts from a estate sale a few years ago. The women's husband had passed away and she new nothing about what had been done to this engine. I am now ready to assemble it but a have a few questions to ask.

 

looks like the original type of lifters were installed. here is a photo of the inside of the block.  

It 475635199_1948ENGINEBLOCK03810.JPG.f86fdcdfe9da64acb2fc3beb93905688.JPG

 

There were some boxes that had adjustable lifters along with the springs. I am assuming  they were replaced with the lifters that I now in the engine. Am I correct in saying this.?

1013897717_1948LIFTERS03812.JPG.afc90bf867b2ac5277cc32a831bdbc14.JPG

 

I also have a M19 Oil Pump & Filter screen  and I understand that before it is installed there needs to be some adjustments to it . Can some one explain what needs to be done and any parts I will need to complete the job. If there are any picture's of how it is to been done that would be appreciated.

 

Gerry

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Hi Gerry,  the block appears to be a hydraulic lifter block. It will have 3 oil holes outside on top left of bellhousing. The top hole feeds oil pressure gauge, the next hole down feeds the  bypass oil filter, third and lowest hole receives oil from filter and sends it on to hydraulic lifters.   Presumably the block  has hydraulic lifters already.   You could  hook a couple of valves out to check just what type of lifters are fitted.
The small hole at the rear of valve chamber is for the fuel pump push rod. The next [large] hole is for  the 12 Lb. metering valve screwed into the bottom thread  to regulate the oil supply to hydraulic  lifters, then the  solid cap is  screwed onto the top thread. The threaded hole right up front of motor has the regular  oil pressure valve spring  screwed into it. Below this front cap any oil leftover from the lifters and main bearings dribbles down onto the cam gear. Hopefully you have these valves and caps with  the motor parts

. If the lifters are solid or adjustable you would  need to remove   the rear metering valve and replace it with a brass plug but retain  the top cap. Run a 3/16 pipe from this cap to the front cap, this allows  oil from the filter to add extra oil to the  timing gear and  recirculate thru the motor.
The green valve springs in the box have 9 coils , sounds like right number for LZ. Flathead V8 have 1 less coil. The lifters in the box appear to be adjustable [ aftermarket]. There"s a different cam profile for hydraulic lifters, not same as solid  or adjustable. A cam grinding shop would need to verify, otherwise can be noisy. You could assume your hyd. block would have the original  hydraulic cam refitted.  The oil pan does need altering for the M19 pump, someone else will have those details. Enough from me.
Roy

Edited by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)
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Roy,

 

I cannot continue until I  Identify what type of lifters were installed, Going to find someone to assist me as I don't have the tools to do this.

 

 

Mssr Bwatoe

Here is a picture of two caps that I found along with a brass meter valve. The valve will screw into the rear hole and the cap will fit on top of it. The other  cap with a hole in it's top is not for the front spot and I have no idea were it goes.

 

 

 

1948 LICOLIN OIL VALVE 03829.JPG

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Gerry, yes you need to verify the type of lifters before moving on. Hydraulic best in that block. 
 And yes the brass plug  is the rear metering valve and as you say the right hand plug  screws in over the top. The cap with the hole? no idea.
  The oil baffles in the pan  need altering  to make room for the M19  filter screen.
Roy 

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I have an adjustable lifter changeover.  The rear fuel pump has a cap for use with electric fuel pump, a 1/16 hole is drilled in the front to lube timing chain, and a 1/16 hole was drilled in the front regulator to let some oil pass.  We hope it works.

Abe

 

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I’m not Abe but the pics of the oil pan are from my 38.  As to year of engine....who knows.  The somewhat 1/2 round hole on left side is for the oil float I believe.  Mine was crushed by the PO as it’s a little difficult to get the oil pan on while in car, and not get the float in the hole.  The more informed guys can tell you how to do it I sure.  I just made mine a dipstick by threading the red washer on the correct length sst rod

Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)
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