Don Jr.

Dodge Brothers engine install

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Hi, am in the final stage to install the 1921 Dodge brothers engine in the restored chassis. Question , there is a tube that the crank handle sticks into and believe this tube is inserted into the front chain cover when I sling the motor  in the chassis. I know it slides into the hole in the front cross member. Is there a gasket or do I use silicone rubber around the sleeve before I slide it in? Thanks for any help. The car came to me as a basket case so never had the apart!!

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In short the answer is "No". The tube has to be able to twist somewhat in the front of the engine so any gasket or sealer will not work. That is a pivot point when the frame flexes and twists. There is a plug that threads into the front of the tube as well to keep oil from leaking out. It has a copper ring type gasket.

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O.K.Great. When I was restoring the oil pan I found a felt gasket attached to the lower lip of the pan and assume it was there to prevent any oil from sloshing forward when you stop. It just pulled out . I cut a new piece of felt from the gasket kit I purchased and slipped it in so the tube can rotate as you stated. Did not know if any other sealing was necessary. The motor is now ready to install. Question is I have the chassis restored with the rear end and transmission installed along with the big support ring installed also with the multi plate clutch installed too. Can I just slide the engine in and drop it to engage the pins on the flywheel and slide it back to the ring? The car came as a basket case so I did not pull the assembly! Thanks.

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They say it shouldn't be done that way but I installed mine from the front just as you describe.  Be careful that it is lined up straight and the pilot shaft will not bind the bearing.  I assume the radiator is off as there rally isn't a lot of wiggle room.  Good luck.

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Hi, yes the radiator is off. It is just a chassis. I assume the engine can slide in on an angle as I have the motor sling that hangs on the motor crane that I can crank on a steep angle and guide it in then readjust the motor level with the transmission and clutch assembly then push backwards. How much room is there between the engine and the front cross member when I do this and bolt the engine to the ring and tranny. Assume it will clear the front cross member and drop in place and the tube that inserts into the front cover will then slide right in. Will there be any clearance between the motor and the back of the cross member? What holds the tube in place when it is inserted fully in position. Is there a collar the pushes on the tube and bolts to the cross member from the front? Again my problem is the car came to me apart so have nothing to go on. I just dig thru the remaining parts and try to fit them where they go. Thanks for any help.

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You can slide it in on a slight angle but will need to straighten it out as much as possible to get it to slide in place.  There is almost no clearance to drop down behind the crossmember.  It's tight.  The front tube will slide in and there is a plate that hold it in place.  Hopefully you have it.  There's about an in to inch and a half between the front of the engine and the front vertical of the crossmember.  The pics are dark but I hope they help.

 

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For what it's worth I had my engine in and out  like you are doing in order to get it in I had to trim the flange off the cross member in order to get  the.  engine level so the flywheel pins would slide in freely and not bend any thing.   Mike

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1 hour ago, Mikefit said:

trim the flange off the cross member

Not much I hope! That is important for its strength in bending.

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O.K. Great news. This explains the issues I have. Dug thru all the parts left from the storage area after I received this email and low and behold there was the front plate. It was marked as a rear axle plate and was with all the other rear end parts left over from the rear end leftovers!! I discovered I have an incorrect rear end and someone installed a newer unit. If I remember correctly  I should have a full floating rear end for 1921 and I have a 1924 one in there. Roy Brister guided me thru the installation back then ( he was a great guy to talk with and miss him!) Guess the person who took her apart had some parts  mixed up. I tried to sort all the main components in groups and when something was tagged assumed it was correct information. Looking at the front cross member I discovered someone was in this problem before and they removed the rivets on the drivers side to allow the cross member to slide forward a bit. This probably gave them enough clearance to slip the motor in!! Well I will  leave it as is and when I get the motor in I will get the correct rivets and put them back properly. You guys are great!! Thanks, Don.

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