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What's your favorite Go-To technique and product for loosening frozen nuts n bolts ?

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... Just thought while I was waiting and waiting for the water to boil while checking my thermostat I would ask what folks are using in the way of technique and products to get all this nasty stubborn and even tight nuts and bolts loose without ruining them cause you don't want that do you ? ... and you don't want to skin your knuckles either. 

 

So with that said, personally my Go-To method is to get what i'n working on nice and hot taking my time and then take a short breather and let em cool down a bit, then when it gets there start doing it again, Oh and you can repeat as necessary, When the moment feels right then just spray on some of this stuff cause it seems to work for me and don't get any complaints cause I follow the directions to a T ...  Of course my instructions sheet is a little old, but then again so am I :

 

1071149809_WD40OriginalAd.thumb.jpg.ce78a362c84d58cfb5953754d61ea9cb.jpg

 

 

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When all else fails break out the oxy/acetylene torch. Never fails and really doesn,t ruin anything but if it,s rusted that fast you should replace it as a matter of course.....bob

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7 hours ago, buick man said:

When the moment feels right then just spray on some of this stuff cause it seems to work for me and don't get any complaints cause I follow the directions to a T ...

 

🤣😂😅😁

 

Is that authentic or....   regardless, what a scream!

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"Tight Nuts... Rusty Tool...???"  I thought this was a Buick forum?  :huh:

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54 minutes ago, EmTee said:

"Tight Nuts... Rusty Tool...???"  I thought this was a Buick forum?  :huh:

 

From recent activity, or lack there-of, it appears to be posted in the right place...😃

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Kroil, if that fails a nut breaker or torch.  

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50/50 Acetone and ATF. I second the motion, it works for me!

 

Mix it in a squirt can and squirt away.

 

Need aerosol spray? Buy Kroil.

 

Blue Wrench if it is necessary when the above does not work.😊

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Pb blaster and ample saturation time.  Even on my very crusty 57 I got 90% of bolts loose this way.  Want quick?  Apply heat.

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well regardless what kind of lubricant you use or how much heat one would think for sure just standing there and beating against your nuts will get them off real fast  but ya gotta be careful, after all you could damage them, so  if your real careful you can keep em in good condition and have them ready to use over and over again if'in they're not all scraped up gouged and damaged.

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Dewalt 4" cordless with cutoff wheel, one of the field service mans best fiends! Ah, friends. 

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I have to say I have been very fortunate that all the nuts/bolts have been very cooperative on my Buicks.  With exception of the sway bar links.  These normally give me trouble on any car that I have had to remove  and replace.  But, if a nut is being stubborn I used WD40 first.  PB Blaster second(can't stand the smell) and torch if it goes beyond that.   I have been know to use a air chisel from time to time.       

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Everything I own has been took apart already or not rusted to begin with. Even my mower is only two years old.

 

I quit smoking about 30 years ago. I had a chart that showed nicotine levels in the blood and the rate it decreased. Once it got to zero it was not job not to let any in again. Maybe the same idea will work with rusty nuts, got none now- don't let any in.

 

If I do accidentally buy one of those rusty nut cars I will probably sell it before the Kroil soaks in.

 

I'm getting better, but its a slow process.

Bernie

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... well truth be told my take is I don't really use WD40 on anything anymore cause it causes rust just ask anyone who has owned and lived on a boat like I did for 15 yrs can tell you;  As for PB Blaster it should have a skull and bones emblem on the front of it ( the smell alone is a clue ) ... so the real GO-TO for this guy is LU103 made by Sprayon T.M. .  It works like a blow torch in a silk glove and it's pleasantly  Vanilla scented as well. Here is the link

 

https://www.sprayon.com/product/lu103-high-performance-rust-penetrant-rust-breaker/ 

 

After getting to a point in time and starting to react to nouscious crap I had to find something that would work and not have the neighbors calling the EPA so found 103 and haven't looked back.

 

 

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OK David: I'm gonna look for it locally. Shipping is more than double the cost of the product.   Thanks, Mitch

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50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone.   

 

Machinist�s Workshop Mag� recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by a professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a �scientifically rusted� environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

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.... great find Ed and what a comparison.  Some years back the secret sauce in WD40 wash fish oil believe it not .. and none of these are actually oil base but are fluid based.  It is interesting to see good ol' ATF which is no surprise but with acetone mixed into it that puzzles us.  Acetone which of course is a very volatile ketone, which one would expect to evaporate within minutes once exposed to air is accredited to this mix.  It would be interesting to see what the torque difference would be with just ATF alone without the acetone mix. In the past I have used ATF as a stand alone for removing oxidative blush off of  metal surfaces, now I use M. Mystery Oil which again is actually a fluid and not an oil, as my go to for surface oxidation tasks. For example,  like when you get that old car home the first day and the engine bay area components have all blushed with dull pink surface oxidation.  Just spray a heavy load over all the surface areas under the hood and then walk away.  Come back in a month or so and open the hood.  The engine compartment will have that driver car used everyday look, just like as if you have been running the car full time and just shut it off last week as all the surface blush will have vanished.

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