Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, joe c said:

There is a guy in my town who has the same year Riv and he let me drive his car and no vibration at all... his car is all original... I mean from 65...

 

If you know this guy well and can sweet talk him, put his drive shaft in your car and go for a spin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes that's a good point, I'll get it back to my mechanic on Saturday and try your advice. I've already been underneath while running but looking more at the driveshaft and wheels and not the other stuff involved.

there's defiantly nothing hitting...like driveshaft to frame etc...while on the hoist anyway that I can see

 

Thanks, Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya that might be a stretch for that one... I sort of hinted but he didn't comment back 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Honestly don't think I'm nuts, but you may want to try and work out some kind of deal with the guy that let you drive his car to borrow his complete shaft just to try it.  If the problem is still there at least you could save yourself a lot of aggravation knowing it has nothing to do with your shaft. Then you could move on to other things.  Mine being a shorter length makes it impossible for me to try someone's stock unit.  Also if he agrees take many pictures of his out of the car so you can mimic the one you own.  Also just for shits and grins check the phasing on his shaft while its out.  Speak soon on my way to work.

 

Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dam I didn't see the other post!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

definitely I would like to see how his drive shaft is phased.

one question i thought of when reading through the forums on this topic was if the driveshaft  weights should be on the same side when phasing the front and rear shafts together. I'm going to take a closer look at mine on the spline where there is supposed to be a pin? for correct phasing position. that would answer my question.

 

Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well...finally an update, I just received a call from the drive line shop turns out the rear CV ball and socket is worn out, scored and out of round.

I guess you really can't see this without taking the cardon joint apart. Originally the shop said this part was a little worn when I had the shaft there the first time so it makes sense but they said it wasn't that bad either... I should have this back in the car on Friday evening and hopefully put an end to this issue. I will update you guys next week after I road test the car.

 

Thank you all for you're help!

 

Joe

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi everyone...well...here's an update, my issues continue... it's been a month long headache. the last time I posted I was waiting for the local drive line shop to install the CV kit in the rear cardon joint, this was completed along with balancing the shaft and the car returned to me.The car still vibrates at 40 mph and up no better and a little worse so it seems as speed increases. I asked for the shop to replace the front CV kit too might as well replace everything and start fresh,  but I had to supply this kit as they exhausted their supplier. When I received the kit, they refused to do any more work on the shaft as they didn't want to deal with this anymore. I can honestly say I'm not pleased with this supposedly reputable shop. I changed the CV kit myself including the u joints, all 5 of them now are new along with the hanger bearing and support. We just had a dumping of snow last night so I couldn't road test the car I will do this as soon as I can. 

Any thoughts from anyone?

 

Thanks, Joe 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/4/2019 at 1:00 PM, telriv said:

Joe,

 

   IF your going to use the shaft W/O the CV joints I myself would use the carrier bearing meant for the '63 & NOT the '64-'65 as your "New" shaft now has no CV joints. & set the rear shaft 37/ 1/2*  degrees out of phase.  There should be NO reason to balance the shaft being out of phase since they are usually balanced separately any way & NOT as a unit.

   IF you end up changing the yoke on the diff. & use the '65 shaft at that point I would use the '65 carrier bearing & set the shafts to be out of phase at 67 1/2*.  The '64-'66 double CV joints was more forgiving than the '63 the reason the engineers added CV joints & diff. phasing.

Just my thoughts.

 

Tom T.

This thread is interesting in that I am working through vibration issues on my 63, although without modifications to the transmission or driveshaft, save replacing a yoke.   

 

Tom- your observation that the two halves are balanced separately makes me wonder how to give information to my driveshaft guy.  His set up will balance the entire shaft.  Should he be balancing the two halves separately?  Could that be why vibration increased after he re balanced things?  

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I road tested the car in a 50 mph zone then down the highway home. At 40 mph the vibration starts again and continues through highway speeds, no better no worse.

I'm now going to look at the rear end and bearings.

 

I'll keep updating as I go.

 

Thanks, Joe

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, telriv said:

Sorry but it's hard to say.

Hard to say as in "not sure if it will make a ddiffference" or hard to say as in "the explanation is too long and involved to key in using a phone" ?

 

Balancing separately has some logic to my simple mind as the bearing in the middle would isolate they tow halves, even though they are connected?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joe,

 

   Rear end or bearings aren't going to give you the vibrations your talking about. So in my eyes DON'T WASTE YOUR $$$$$. Pretty sure it still has to do with your driveshaft.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Zimm,

 

   Why not buy the shaft from the guy who said it was smooth with the DynaFlow trans.  Since he's using something completely different he no longer has a need for his original.  Unless he gets completely disgusted & puts the DynaFlow back in.

Just a thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah... I hear you and i'm just scrambling for some solution. I should put it out there if anyone knows where to get a good used driveshaft, let me know.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're right i went back in the forum and found the pictures of the three dshafts and sent him a message.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cripes, we got too many guys on this thread.    Its hard to track who has what not working and why.

 

Zimm

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Guy's,

 

I'm still living in my own HELL.  Seems everything I do makes my situation worse.  I do have a friend in Sellersville PA that has a bunch of Riviera's  different years.  I'm pretty sure he will have a complete 65 set up for you.  It will have to be completely rebuilt before installing it, as any driveshaft would need rebuilding being over 50 years old.  His name is James his number is 215.767.0845.  Tell him Joe Cannizzaro from Staten Island with the white 63 gave you his contact info.  Good Luck!  I just got back down to FL where I keep my car.  I'm in the Phasing Stage right now but I can't say at this point if my last move made a difference yet.  I just went from 0* to 101* as per my original 63 shaft and the shop manual,  but I think they screwed up the carrier bearing yoke or whatever you want to call that piece.  Anyway keep posting as I will also and give Jim a call.  Best Wishes.

 

Joe Cannizzaro

917.582.1471

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve purchased a few parts from James in the past and not long ago I spoke with him he said the only dshaft he has for 65 was really pitted. 

 

Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now