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Floor Board and Running Board - mid 20's Buick details


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Needing some help with side apron scuff plate details.  Not many close up photos available, especially of what it looks like on top and under the running boards where the scuff plates are attached .  I have the holes, screws and escutcheons that were on my running boards.  Not sure if correct.  I have (I believe) the original running board trim (zinc plated) that was used on these Buicks.   The running boards have been replaced.  The inner trim was nailed on, and the outer trim was screwed on when I look at parts lists  in earlier parts books.  I am not positive if my inner trim was outer trim at one time, but I believe the outer trim had ribs on the top side or was wider on top than the inner trim.  There is a photo of the outer trim on perhaps a 1927 model in my photos below.  BCA rules allow the use of aluminum since this trim is no longer available.  The aluminum looks nice since it is a brighter trim anyway.

 

In the McLaughlin Standard parts book for 1925 (It says Catalogue at the top of the page), they list running board binding (inside) in 3 lengths.  If I use these dimensions for the inner trim lengths, and push the scuff plates against the apron and between these trim pieces, things fall into place for the spacing and length of the running board.  It appears that there are notches for the inner trim in the base plate of the scuff plate.   So wondering if the inner trim was done in either a long solid inner trim, and the scuff plate was on the outside of the trim, or with the trim being cut and the scuff plates were between the trim pieces.  If I set the scuff plates on top of either the existing or the new trim, it does not look very good.    It appears the scuff plates were likely attached using carriage bolts as well.    If I use carriage bolts and the scuff plate is against the apron, I would have to drill the horizontal flange at the bottom of the side apron to accept the carriage bolt threads.  So I'm not sure why I do not have any holes for the bolts to go thru in this flange on my car.  The 1925 McLaughlin parts book indicates the bolts are 1/2" long, so did they mortise in the nut, or did they make a typo and mean 1 1/2"?   Round head carriage bolt 113837 is the same part number listed in the US 1925 Standard book of parts, but it is 1 1/2" long.  

 

   In the 1925 Master book of parts book, it lists the running board inner trim as 60" with a note "cut to fit".  Further down it lists the scuff plates and then 113837 round head carriage bolts 1/4 x 1 1/2".  Included also is the 1924 6 cylinder book of parts, and it lists the length of the inner trim pieces to be cut for the various master models, and lists the barbed nails used on the inner trim. 

 

Any help is appreciated.    Thank you,   Hugh

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Adding to the note above, I did find one underside picture from Leif, and he shows the lower horizontal metal of the side apron drilled for the step plate bolts.  The 2 bolts are set further back and have square nuts on them.  I have no holes in my sheetmetal is what I find interesting.  

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Also wondering what is more typical on the end binding part 152145 for the trim at the rear of the running board.  I have seen this done 2 different ways.  The photo of the end binding seems to show round holes, and if the carriage bolts went thru, the opening would be square - unless they just pulled the bolt thru the hole and made it square after the fact.  If they used the screws in the end plate, they are just place inward of the 2 carriage bolts.  Maybe this detail was done a couple of different ways?          Thank you,   Hugh

  

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Maybe these end bindings and scuff plates were done a slightly different way based on origin of manufacture?  I know there are some minor differences with Holden models.  This photo shows what was on my car, compared to how Leif's 25-25X was finished.  Difficult to know what was really correct as there are so few cars with this detail left.  Running boards would take a lot of abuse always having water and mud splashed on them.  

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Hugh:

I wish I could help.  But as you know my running boards had been replaced. All the other cars I have photo reference for have not ben any help. Not enough detail or boards also changed. I would still go by Leif's example as the "Gold Standard".

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

For what it is worth, I believe my running boards are original on my 1922.  They are off the car as you can see, but most everything on the old gal has been as original.  I throw them in  just in case they help, but they look a bit well used.  Back edge looks quite rusty.  Maybe the back piece was not aluminum, or else it has been changed.

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Brice, 

     The kick plates are .100 thick aluminum. 

 

Mark, 

     I believe the inner and outer trim was supposed to be zinc - like your outer trim which is original for sure.  Can you show an end view of the running board wood?  It should be 3 pieces tongue and groove together.  I wonder if there were any cross pieces used to hold it on the bottom side as well.   

 

Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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I finally found the time to finish this technical article on installing floor boards and running boards.  This is 8 pages and since I cannot post word docs, it is photographed pages.  Special thanks to Larry DiBarry, Leif Holmberg, Brad Hoskins and 27 Don B for details.  I hope you find this information helpful.      Hugh

     

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hugh,

I just ran across this topic as I have revived my interest in getting more done on my car. I know what I have to add is too little too late since you ready finished your running boards, but my 1924 is original and do not believe anything has ever been done to the car over the years. The back trim on mine is nailed on, the front of the trim applied with round head screws. And in answer to one of your questions as to whether the trim pieces are cut or one long piece running behind the scuff plates, mine are cut and its is not one piece. They began and ended the back trim pieces at each end of the scuff plates which are attached to the wood with carriage bolts. If you have any other questions let me know and I can check on my car and take whatever measurements or pictures you need. I will post what I can here if I can. I think there is a limit on file size though. I will email you more pics if I am limited here. Like I said, it's a little late now, but at least I can help shed some light on the topic.

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Edited by 29StudiePrez
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On another note my car has this original step plate which is designed to start at the edge of the running board and widen until it reaches the width of the scuff plate. It still had square nuts on the backside of where the bolts came through the running board wood. I noticed that the same bolt hole pattern for this plate has holes in the wood at each door scuff plate and it looks like this step plate has been on since new. Apparently it had these plates at all 4 doors but looks like 3 of them have either come off or been taken through the years. Can these even be found reproduced by anyone?

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Thanks for posting these added photos.  It also shows the difference in the running board trim that the larger 6 cylinder cars had compared to the 4 cylinder and Standard models.   At the back of the running board, the smaller cars used an end binding plate.  On the larger cars, the trim was mitered to resemble a picture frame.  For those that do not know -  this is a 1924-51A.  The rare early Brougham with the oval rear back side windows and landau bars.  The most expensive car in Buicks line up.  That is a real interesting step plate and I have not seen that before.  It would not surprise me if that was a Brougham specific item.  

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