TRP Hawaii Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 I want to thank both of you, edinmass and C Carl for responding so quickly to my request for my sticky float valve. I was presuming that the float valve is my problem but i am just guessing. Some history of this problem may shed some light. I have owned this car for almost 20 years now. Never used anything but straight gasoline The fellow that I bought this car from had installed an electric pump and a pressure regulator, and did some work on the internal parts of the Johnson carburetor. The car started normally and ran well. For the next 10 years, I worked on finishing the restoration I probably should have drained the carburetor by running it out of gas, but I don,t remember doing that. After all this time, I started the car but... it was spitting out a lot of black wet smoke. At his time I decided to check out the pressure going to the carburetor so I installed a pressure gauge between the pressure regulator and the carburetor. With the car running, the carburetor was getting 3 1/2 pounds pressure and 5 1/2 pounds when I turned the ELECTRIC pump on. The engine was barely running and gas was dripping on the floor from the carburetor manifold. No fire thankfully Obviously the electric pump can overwhelm the float valve. Lesson.... Don't touch the electric pump !! So I bought a carburetor repair kit from Classic and Exotic Services. Something still wrong. The only way I can get the engine to start is to move the throttle to full open and quickly move it back once it started. Not a good idea. That is the situation I am in at this moment. Once I get the engine running normally, I can then shut it down and it will then restart as it should. This will last for about 2 or days. Can not find a leak in the gas lines. What prompted me to start this discussion was about a month ago when I had to get the car inspected to renew the license . Got to the inspection station, shut the car down and could not get it started again. Had to have it towed home. PANIC !!!! Fortunately, the tow truck driver got it home without a scratch. I gave him a $100 tip. This has gotten serious now. My says she won't go anywhere with me until I get the starting problem fixed. So.. I hope this sheds some light on what I am doing wrong. Any suggestion you old car people have will be greatly appreciated. Terry . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 I'm not sure how different that is from my much earlier car (carb is a similar design though) - but that sounds like too much pressure. For instance in 1922 it should only require 1lbs of pressure to start (mine starts fine on less than 3/4 lbs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coley Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 I am wondering what your car is. I have had a 1933 Chevy 3 window coupe (no rumble seat trunk), for over 50 years. I see a 1933 hood ornament but a lot of differences. Nice car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 1933 Cadillac. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 I have a 1929 Cad and I went through a steep learning curve. As originally designed the fuel delivery system is a vacuum tank. Engine vacuum sucks fuel into a reservoir tank (for storage) then the fuel is delivered to the carb by pure gravity feed. (Model T style) No pressure. (well it has the pressure of a drop of 6"-12". . . 1 pound? half a pound?) What I discovered is that it is almost impossible to get an electric pump to regulate down to such a low pressure. The line and fittings to the carb are a large diameter so there is FLOW, just no pressure. Low pressure (adequate volume) is what the Johnson carb was designed for. After that I climbed the mountain and repaired the vacuum tank. A story in itself, but I have been told that after you have one set up properly, they can work reliabily for decades. The electric pump is only for priming after long storage periods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Doesn't 1932 and 1933 have a mechanical fuel pump hanging on the side of the crankcase ? If so, I would get that working again, wrap the lines, and wrap the exhaust anywhere near the lines and at the rear axle hump. And, do not be afraid to call Classic and Exotic and ask for advice as there is a reason why they have made the kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 The 32 and later eights had fuel pumps...........its been thirty years since I worked on one. Sadly carburation and ignition have evolved so much over the the last thirty years there are very few young people with extensive experience dealing with running issues. Add in the fact that the early cars are all significantly different its very hard to find people that know if parts are missing when they work on things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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