GARY F Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 Looking good. I hate that cleaning also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 More slow progress. I am working on reassembly, the carb, ignition and alternator plus wiring are on and I have set the compressor in place to contemplate how it will work with my power steering pump. This involves a long bolt and a pile of spacers and washers that goes through the front mounting bracket, power steering pump, water pump housing, p/s pump again and rear mounting bracket - all in such a way that the dual belts line up between compressor, crank pulley and alternator! I'll be doing the actual trial and error fitting later this week. While I had the distributor out I cleaned it up and replaced the points and condenser. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 Compressor mounting success! I used a mount kit from Bouchillon Performance Engineering designed to work with all my stock factory a/c alternator and p/s components and followed their detailed installation instructions. It went on very easily, I did have to play with the washer packs between the front bracket, p/s pump bracket and water pump housing passthru to get belt pulleys lined up right. In the end it is a good looking and very stable mount set and the original belts fit and line up great, thanks much to Bouchillon. Next will be mounting the new condenser. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 Yay! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 The car is mobile again! The new condenser has been mounted, radiator and cooling system back together, fluids in and it runs. I think the new points were needed, it started up so quickly I was surprised. I measured for and ordered the barrier hose, one additional fitting and a spare set of O-rings, which I hope to have within a week. My Grandson is visiting next week so I hope to get back to it the week after. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 25, 2019 Author Share Posted June 25, 2019 Spent time with my grandson last week and did little on the car but I did take it for a short ride. Freakout time, it made a loud rumbling / grinding noise whenever I accelerated! I go into diagnostic mode - check all the fluids, check the belt clearances, check all the bolts, but still the noise is there when I took it out again this morning. I'm thinking the worst, then I noticed the clamp holding the smaller power steering hose to the inner fender is loose. I tightened the screw and drove it again - no noise at all! I got all my hose and fittings so I will be getting back to it later in the week. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 I love your wagon, TexRiv. It is awesome and then some. I'm much more interested in seeing stuff like this at car shows than 57 Chevies with flames. You rarely see them original-ish like that, IMO. I think your upgrades were well worth it, and why not paint the engine. Looks good. Glad you are getting things working right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 56 minutes ago, JamesR said: I love your wagon, TexRiv. It is awesome and then some. I'm much more interested in seeing stuff like this at car shows than 57 Chevies with flames. You rarely see them original-ish like that, IMO. I think your upgrades were well worth it, and why not paint the engine. Looks good. Glad you are getting things working right. Thanks for the kind words James. I have always been a wagon fan for daily drivers but by the time I was looking for one for hobby purposes they had gotten crazy expensive. So few survived daily driver use that what was left was either already customized or in really bad shape. I was very lucky to find a rust free car as original as this one for a price reasonable enough that it is worth this additional work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Share Posted June 30, 2019 It's been a busy week but I finally got some time to work yesterday. I reinstalled the original liquid line and big low side line on the evaporator with the new expansion valve and temperature cycling switch. Both lines are teed into the lines for the rear A/C unit. I also used a spare fitting and some old hose to try out the hydraulic crimper - very easy to use and looks like it works. Now I start making the new lines. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 Don it too late for you but I have been using Eaton's quick Clip system for my AC lines. I love it as it lets me do it easily in my garage. I see you have a AC Crimper though. Good luck with this project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 On 6/30/2019 at 3:56 PM, Bill Stoneberg said: Don it too late for you but I have been using Eaton's quick Clip system for my AC lines. I love it as it lets me do it easily in my garage. I see you have a AC Crimper though. Good luck with this project. Thanks Bill. The hydraulic crimper is very easy to use but like many things in this project I have my fingers firmly crossed that all will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 I tackled the main low side refrigerant line yesterday. In order to hook up with the rear A/C I needed to route it over the top of the engine like the factory metal pipe, including a kick-up to clear the throttle / trans linkage. I tried doing it with a single hose but that big #12 size would not bend enough, so I used a 90 degree coupler and two shorter pieces of hose. I connected it to the compressor with a side exit hardline from Nostalgic A/C and a #10/#12 stepup adapter fitting. I also found a carb adaptor to fit the stock air cleaner which now clears everything. Need to get some black zip-ties instead of the white but it came out OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 7, 2019 Author Share Posted July 7, 2019 I am now pretty much done with installation. The high side and liquid lines are in and connected to the condenser. I ran the high side line through the factory grommet under the battery and connected it to the compressor with the other hardline from the Nostalgic A/C kit. The liquid line runs up over the top of the condenser, looks a little weird but should work. The only unconnected fittings are at the dryer which is mounted in the oem location. I made up a wiring harness connecting the thermo cycling switch to the pressure switch then back to the compressor, all 14 gauge wiring. First time I ever used the "static cling" non-adhesive tape, it was easy to use and looks factory. Tomorrow I plan to connect the dryer up and pull a vacuum - first big hurdle, fingers will be crossed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 12, 2019 Author Share Posted July 12, 2019 The new system has been successfully evacuated and recharged. I hooked up the last two fittings at the dryer on Monday and set up my gauges and vacuum pump. This was my first attempt using the quick connect high and low pieces and I didn't know you had to tighten them up to open the valves so when I turned the pump on it immediately pulled a 30! Luckily I read the instructions a little better and tightened the connectors down, doing it right it took longer but I still pegged the needle and the vacuum held. One thing I have noticed all through this project is how many different opinions there are on how to do things like flushing, evacuating and charging. Between instruction sheets, online articles, forum posts and You-Tube videos it is easy to get confused! I probably vacuumed that system a total of at least 2 hours because of my screw-ups, including about 20 minutes tuesday before charging. The charging process went well, the compressor started up about 10 minutes after opening the first can of R134. It took about an hour and a half and used 28 ounces to fill to 50psi low / 300psi high. The worst part was that summer is here in Texas with 95 degrees ambient so it was probably about 120 in my garage and I felt like a drowned rat! I still have to replace the grille and do some cleanup but I'm looking forward to driving it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 14, 2019 Author Share Posted July 14, 2019 This job is officially done, the car is all back together and I have driven it 3 times in 90 degree weather. I am very happy, both front and rear units work great, and it will freeze you out in the Max A/C setting! I am still knocking on wood and keeping fingers crossed regarding the long term but I am glad I chose the conversion route. For the purists watching, it doesn't really shout custom except for maybe the compressor. I have saved all the stock parts and nothing I have done is irreversible, so... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 14, 2019 Share Posted July 14, 2019 1 hour ago, TexRiv_63 said: This job is officially done, the car is all back together and I have driven it 3 times in 90 degree weather. I am very happy, both front and rear units work great, and it will freeze you out in the Max A/C setting! I am still knocking on wood and keeping fingers crossed regarding the long term but I am glad I chose the conversion route. For the purists watching, it doesn't really shout custom except for maybe the compressor. I have saved all the stock parts and nothing I have done is irreversible, so... Good job, Don. Don't worry about the purists. I didn't. Ben 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Really nice job, Don. Functional A/C is always a big plus in an old car and you did it right. Originality is one thing, but on a car that's going to be used reliability beats all. If a future buyer complains, offer to take all the new stuff off and put the old stuff back on and see how he reacts. Looks awesome! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billorn Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Look's great!! Only thing I would do is paint the condenser black and help it blend in behind the grille. Im pretty sure the factory just sprayed everything black before the grille was installed at the factory anyway you can see the overspray on your radiator cradle. Love your car! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 17, 2019 Author Share Posted July 17, 2019 On 7/15/2019 at 6:43 PM, billorn said: Look's great!! Only thing I would do is paint the condenser black and help it blend in behind the grille. Im pretty sure the factory just sprayed everything black before the grille was installed at the factory anyway you can see the overspray on your radiator cradle. Love your car! I thought about doing that but was advised by many sources that the paint would affect cooling performance. Since my condenser is a bit undersized I won't take that chance. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted July 18, 2019 Share Posted July 18, 2019 TexRiv, I read all three pages of your installation in the Monaco station wagon. I took some notes regarding method approach to making a repair. Your sketch was well done and certainly a method I can use. The engine bay, new paint looks great. I’m happy to learn of your “chilling” success! My Riv is cooking me very well. The all new AC components and STV update switch I believe made the difference. Getting the original evaporator box reinstalled under the dash with new barrier hoses was r e a l hard. At the very end I had a blockage which was too much oil in the AC muffler. With all the evacuating I did I neglected to evacuate the AC muffler. My thinking about a muffler was out of context with an AC application. I was totally stumped why my R12 would not charge. Bottom line/ Tom Telesco came in from Norwalk CT to finish the install. A couple of add on items like a vacuum tank and severe duty clutch fan will hopefully improve performance in bumper to bumper traffic and when I accelerate enough to merit the extra expense. The work I can do myself. Thank you for your support over the years. Bob Burnopp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted July 19, 2019 Author Share Posted July 19, 2019 Barring any problems or questions I will probably not be adding any more to this thread. I did want to finish up with some cost and time comments in case anyone contemplating a similar project may be interested. Time: I started thinking about restoring vs. converting last year when my oem system crapped out. Like I always do I dithered around for quite a while, I did a LOT of research including other detailed threads previously mentioned. I finally made the decision to do the modern upgrade conversion the end of March this year and started buying tools and parts. The actual teardown began on May 1 and it was done and working on July 12, roughly 10 weeks. I am 70 years old and retired so I could work on this whenever I wanted to but for the same two reasons I took it slow and easy. My typical work "day" was probably 3 to 4 hours with at least a day off in between work days, sometimes a lot more than that. For other chronologically challenged folks I will say this was a pretty easy job with very little under-car time and more brain work than brute force. Tools: While I already owned all the basic mechanic's tools I had never done my own A/C work before so I did invest in quite a bit - Gauge set, vacuum pump, flush gun, hydraulic hose crimper, can taps, and other misc. I bought because I wanted them for future use but most tools can be rented or borrowed, I am not including tools in my cost for the project. Cost: All of the parts including R134 refrigerant and oil cost $975.00. I did not have to farm out any work so my labor was free. I chose to buy the parts piecemeal rather than get an underhood kit mostly because of my need to connect to the rear system, none of the kits followed the routing I wanted. I paid extra for a genuine Sanden compressor versus all the Chinese knockoffs and I used the Bouchillon compressor mounts which were expensive but well worth it. The compressor, all fittings and all hose came from Cold Hose which is actually Air Parts in Ocala, FL. Their prices beat everyone elses and all is USA made. The condenser came from Nostalgic A/C mostly because they had the right size and I bought their compressor hardline kit because no one else offered it. I hope this is of help. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 28 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said: I am 70 years old and retired so I could work on this whenever I wanted to but for the same two reasons I took it slow and easy. My typical work "day" was probably 3 to 4 hours with at least a day off in between work days, sometimes a lot more than that. This is also my work pace! We have about the same age... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 On 7/17/2019 at 12:56 PM, TexRiv_63 said: I thought about doing that but was advised by many sources that the paint would affect cooling performance. Since my condenser is a bit undersized I won't take that chance. Compliment you on your effort and your post. Would thee be any problem painting the compressor black? In my eyes, seeing a bright shiny compressor immediately tells me it is a retrofit, yet if painted black it would tend to blend in with all the other engine bits. Interested in comments? Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 16 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said: Compliment you on your effort and your post. Would thee be any problem painting the compressor black? In my eyes, seeing a bright shiny compressor immediately tells me it is a retrofit, yet if painted black it would tend to blend in with all the other engine bits. Interested in comments? Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀 Thanks. I like the way the compressor looks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Great thread Tex. Didn't even know about it until you posed the link on your thread in the "Our Restorations' section of the forum. Very well done, and great info for the rest of us. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Studeous Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) Impressive job. Good post. May I say, she aint slick, but she is a bronze beauty. Happy motoring in the lone star state, pardner. Oops. Meant to say sleek not slick. She is VERY slick! Edited July 23, 2020 by Studeous Change slick to sleek. (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 I'm back to this thread after almost two years. My converted A/C system worked very well up until recently, it was still cooling but I noticed it was not keeping up the first few 80 degree days this spring so I figured it had lost some refrigerant. Last thursday was hot and humid, about 85 degrees so I figured it was a good time to top it off. I hooked up my gauges and popped a new can of R-134. When I first started it up and turned the A/c on both low and high sides read low. I closed the hookup valve on the high side and opened the low side gauge valve, the low gauge shot up to 100 and the high side was at about 145. Recommended numbers at 85 degrees are 45-55 low and 225-250 high. I let it run for awhile thinking it would stabilize but after about 20 minutes the low side was at 110 and the high had only gone up to 150. I shut it down and disconnected everything and was naturally pissed. After some comments on another forum I took it for a ride yesterday, it was cooler and overcast so it naturally performed better but still did not freeze me out like before. After the drive I noticed the front dash unit output was getting less cold as it idled in the driveway. The rear unit which is recirculate only with its own expansion valve seemed to be blowing much cooler than the front. Under the hood the compressor was turning continuously, the expansion valve was cold with condensation on the bottom, the small compressor pipe to the condenser was very hot and the larger pipe was cool. I will be researching this but would appreciate any thoughts from the cooling experts out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 I am not any expert but I do have a Chiltons 1962-68 A/C manual and found this page on troubleshooting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 Thanks Terry, I have that page plus a few more. While there are other things listed there seems to be a lot of things pointing to a bad expansion valve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 On my 1971 Plymouth GTX with the original Chrysler RV2 compressor, the first two new EPR valves we tried were bad out of the box, the third new one finally worked. I don't know whether the newer rotary compressors use such a valve or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 2, 2021 Author Share Posted June 2, 2021 4 hours ago, cudaman said: On my 1971 Plymouth GTX with the original Chrysler RV2 compressor, the first two new EPR valves we tried were bad out of the box, the third new one finally worked. I don't know whether the newer rotary compressors use such a valve or not. The new Sanden compressor does not use an EPR valve, I added a new temperature sensor which provides cycling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 bravo for this excellent job !!!🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 An update: based on comments from another forum I checked all of the control buttons with the blower on high, all the servos and doors work as required, the modes all transition smoothly and the airflow is the same from the selected locations. I felt the heater hoses and only one is hot indicating the heater valve is closed. There is no obstruction of the condenser and the thermostatic fan is working as designed. My next step is to hook the gauges up again and record the pressures with photos, are there specific ways to check the operation of an expansion valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cquisuila Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 i have a question : Do you need absolutly 2 parallel belts to power the compressor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 If the pulley has place for two belts, 2 must be used. Cadillacs from the fifties needed also two belts which must be exactly the same length, otherwise only one is working. Later compressor are maybe requiring less power and one belt is enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted June 9, 2021 Author Share Posted June 9, 2021 1 hour ago, Roger Zimmermann said: If the pulley has place for two belts, 2 must be used. Cadillacs from the fifties needed also two belts which must be exactly the same length, otherwise only one is working. Later compressor are maybe requiring less power and one belt is enough. Correct. I had an Oldsmobile with the original A6 compressor and someone had put a single groove alternator on. When the compressor would kick in the single belt would slip and squeal. May not be an issue with the Sanden compressor but why take a chance. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 My 1975 Ford F100 had dual matched belts running the alternator. Replacements were sold as a matched set. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 Buick’s from the 60s also use two belts to prevent squealing and slipping. Don, have you put a thermometer in your vent to see what the temp is ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 You used to be able to buy pairs of matched length belts as a single package, but I haven't seen them in a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8E45E Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 On 7/14/2019 at 6:52 PM, Matt Harwood said: Really nice job, Don. Functional A/C is always a big plus in an old car and you did it right. Originality is one thing, but on a car that's going to be used reliability beats all. If a future buyer complains, offer to take all the new stuff off and put the old stuff back on and see how he reacts. Looks awesome! I appreciate that he's keeping the original Airtemp components, and will pass it along to a subsequent owner. Craig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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