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I'm getting ready to pull the gas tank off of my '69 Impala SS,  just curious of the type of tank sealer that the membership has used with good results. I was told that it would be a good idea to have the tank "boil" at a radiator shop prior to sealing it....

 

Any suggestion / input is appreciated, first time doing this....

 

Thanks !

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Gas Tank Renu. $350-400. Guaranteed for life. No tank too far gone for them to restore. I use them for all my personal cars and many customer cars. The exterior will have a coating, so if the tank is visible that can be a consideration because it won't look original. But if it's out of sight under the car, no problem. I've been very pleased with their work, and for what you'll pay for a radiator shop to clean yours out and to apply some coating yourself, it's worth letting the pros do it.

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11 hours ago, 46 woodie said:

I used the sealer that the Bill Hirsch Company sells. It's supposed to be ethanol gas proof. So far so good. 

I've been using the same in my customer's gas tanks and vacuum tanks  since about when it came out many years ago. Holds up to ethanol gas very well.

 

Paul 

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Gas Tank Renu. $350-400. Guaranteed for life

 

before I bought my car, this was done and there is a tag on the tank attesting to this. My tank is now rotting out. How do I go about getting it redone or repaired, or does that ONLY pertain to the original owner?

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1 hour ago, mercer09 said:

Gas Tank Renu. $350-400. Guaranteed for life

 

before I bought my car, this was done and there is a tag on the tank attesting to this. My tank is now rotting out. How do I go about getting it redone or repaired, or does that ONLY pertain to the original owner?

 

I would guess that a phone call to them would clear things up pretty quickly...

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Red-Kote is an internal fuel tank liner designed to seal leaks and prevent further rusting. As a sealant, Red-Kote excels at sealing the often hundreds of pin-hole leaks that occur along seams or where straps wrap around the tank. Once in place, Red-Kote forms a very tough, flexible membrane that will never crack or flake as many competitive products do. Red-Kote will not plug lines or cause engine damage when used properly. Future rust will be prevented because condensation will not contact the metal. A partial list of additives that Red-Kote is resistant to includes ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, toluene, methyl tertiary butyl ether, isopropyl alcohol and tetraethyl lead.   Red-Kote takes approximately eight hours to dry   One (1) Quart for up to a 12-14 gallon tank   For metal tanks only...   

Edited by Mark Shaw (see edit history)
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I have been fond of Renu, though usually only have them do the inside and at times the outside top of the tank (I finish the bottom and/or top of the tank in paint).  I generally have to call and ask who they want me to send the tank to achieve this result (ie you have to actually talk with people if you want different from the norm custom work done).   On a high point car, I recently had the tank dipped at a radiator shop, then dipped again at a galvanizer, hot dipped galvanized, and then sent to Renu to have the interior coated. 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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By the way, there are some really nice reproduction tanks out there for certain cars - I always admire them in shops where I have work done/help me and unfortunately I tend to not be lucky enough to ever have a project that has these types of reproduction parts available. 

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I have used the Caswell epoxy system 5 times now.  The last tank I did sat for 16 years full of gas (ugly), the key is do a good job cleaning the tank out,  after draining I put in a few quarts of good

solvent and let it sit overnight, then a long cleaning with a pressure washer and strong detergent, flush it out till only clear water is coming out.  Blow dry (oil free) compressed air through it 

overnight at about 5 PSI.  Coat the tank per instructions, I have had excellent results, would never consider a single component system again (had a bad experience once). Its a bit expensive,

like $80 on EBAY, but well worth it.

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As someone who has had two different gas tanks sealed, I tend to agree with the folks who say replace the tank instead of getting the original sealed. Sixties era Impalas were, and still are, pretty popular cars, and I'd be surprised if there aren't oem style aftermarket tanks. Impalas are popular among restorers, too, so that increases the likelihood of availability. 

 

The only caveat would be station wagons, which sometimes have different shaped tanks, and since most wagons weren't popular to restore until recently, few replacements were available. That's the only reason I had my Ford wagon tank resealed instead of replaced. The downside to sealing is that the coating can come loose over time. I also worry because of additives I put in my gas and their effect on the coating. I put Marvel Mystery Oil in (on occasion) without much worry, but I no longer feel confident putting Sea Foam in my coated tanks, as it's a cleaner/solvent/whatever.  The good news is both of my tanks turned out basically okay, and after 15 years or so they're still functioning mostly good, but I did have a few small flakes of of dried sealant show up in one of my fuel filters a few years back. That's when I stopped using Sea Foam and no problems since.

 

Coating the tank wasn't something I wanted to try by myself since decent condition replacement tanks were near impossible to get at the time, so I had both tanks professionally done to avoid screw ups...and it wasn't cheap. If you can get a replacement tank, maybe it's worth the effort to go the inexpensive route and coat the existing tank yourself so you can at least get a new one if the project goes south.

 

They say the clear plastic fuel filters aren't safe to use in cars, but if you recoat your tank, you'll probably want to use one now and then (for a few months at a time) to see if any dirt, rust or dried sealant is still coming through from the tank. Using two is best - one before the mechnical fuel pump and one after. As I recall, the two different shops used the POR 15 tank specific product on the tanks. I've also applied the standard POR 15 myself over moderate to heavy interior surface rust (also 15 years ago) and it holds up real well.

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3 hours ago, 46 woodie said:

Roger, the old type tank sealer will not stand up to the new ethanol fuels. From what I understand the new formula offered by Bill Hirsch is ethanol proof.

 

Yes, the gas tank sealers from before the days of alcohol in the fuel do not hold up, once they started adding ethanol. Such as the old Bill Hirsch yellow tank sealer. Ethanol turns it gummy and it starts to partially dissolve off the tank walls in gooey lumps. Then, it gets caught in and clogs fuel lines, filters, and carb jets.

 

The  Bill Hirsch alcohol resistant sealer (white) that's been around for over 20 years and it holds up very well. But like other sealers, it only works in a properly cleaned tank. Some don't clean their tank well enough and the sealer can come loose in spots. That's not the fault of the sealer if the directions on the can are not followed well enough.

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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6 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:

Red-Kote is an internal fuel tank liner designed to seal leaks and prevent further rusting. As a sealant, Red-Kote excels at sealing the often hundreds of pin-hole leaks that occur along seams or where straps wrap around the tank. Once in place, Red-Kote forms a very tough, flexible membrane that will never crack or flake as many competitive products do. Red-Kote will not plug lines or cause engine damage when used properly. Future rust will be prevented because condensation will not contact the metal. A partial list of additives that Red-Kote is resistant to includes ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, toluene, methyl tertiary butyl ether, isopropyl alcohol and tetraethyl lead.   Red-Kote takes approximately eight hours to dry   One (1) Quart for up to a 12-14 gallon tank   For metal tanks only...not for use on plastic or fiberglass tanks   I have been selling Red Kote for over 20 years in the radiator industry

We've been using the Red-Kote for many years in every car we restore/service with absolutely no problems.  It's the only gas tank sealer/liner I will use.

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On 3/23/2019 at 8:40 AM, mercer09 said:

Gas Tank Renu. $350-400. Guaranteed for life

 

before I bought my car, this was done and there is a tag on the tank attesting to this. My tank is now rotting out. How do I go about getting it redone or repaired, or does that ONLY pertain to the original owner?

Car & Light Truck tanks which are coated inside and outside with our patented process have a limited lifetime warranty — All other tanks are 1 – 2 year warranty.

 

Can't hurt to call as Matt suggests. 

 

charley

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Hi Charley,

bought car in NM 12 yrs ago, so thinking the limited pertains here................. I am in NJ. Think they are individually owned franchises..............

 

would like a new tank, but it is a 51 tin woody.

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I always replace but if I Cant then it will get dipped to remove rust and I 2nd the Caswell brand sealer.  Expensive but it's a true 2part epoxy sealer.  I like the Red version so you know when it's coated.  Looks just like the Maker's Mark wax dip.  

 

Hirsch has been used by people forever but I find it to be to thin.  I had one dipped and the guy used hirsch and it started leaking right away.  It didn't fill the pin holes that he missed with solder.    I know the Caswell would have sealed those defects.  

 

Never used Por tank sealer but I hope it works better than the magical rust cover garbage they sell.  

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On 3/27/2019 at 2:08 PM, Janousek said:

I always replace but if I Cant then it will get dipped to remove rust and I 2nd the Caswell brand sealer.  Expensive but it's a true 2part epoxy sealer.  I like the Red version so you know when it's coated.  Looks just like the Maker's Mark wax dip.  

 

Hirsch has been used by people forever but I find it to be to thin.  I had one dipped and the guy used hirsch and it started leaking right away.  It didn't fill the pin holes that he missed with solder.    I know the Caswell would have sealed those defects.  

 

Never used Por tank sealer but I hope it works better than the magical rust cover garbage they sell.  

All i can say is that my 52 was undercoated and the inside of the cabin sealed with POR15 about 16 years ago and to this point no rust has returned.  I followed the instructions exactly.

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The externally-visible gas tank on my 1923 Hupmobile was having internal rust issues back when it was still my parents' car...and they passed in 1978. Of course things just got worse year after year. Twice over the early years that I first owned the car, I removed the tank, and carefully followed the instructions on two different well-known aftermarket "gas tank sealers." Eventually, both of them failed (it took a few years, but it happened nevertheless). So I took my tank off and shipped it off to that company which advertises in HEMMINGS, "Gas Tank Renu," I believe. When the tank was shipped back to me, it was badly warped and distorted, apparently from the heat of their ovens. Regardless, I just painted it and re-installed it...even though you could see the warped panels when installed. I was that desperate to be done with rust in my fuel system. Ugly as it was, it functioned ok....for about a year. Then one day the engine starting sputtering again, just like it used to do when it starved for fuel. I checked the clear inline filter, and sure enough it was full of rust specs again. I stuck a little mirror inside, and saw badly rusted areas, which must have been missed by the sealer those folks had used. 

 

Desperate, I had a brand new gas tank fabricated. It was made of stainless steel this time, and painted the correct factory black gloss with special paint designed for stainless. AT LAST, my rusty fuel system problems were over. 

 

To each his own, but IF I could easily buy a beautiful, correct-appearing reproduction gas tank for any car I was restoring, there is NO WAY I would mess around with tank sealers of any type or brand name. Even the outside of these new repro tanks are beautifully galvanized (like OEM units), and will likely last a very long time on a seldom-driven collector vehicle. (And think about this...if you are restoring a car of the 1950's through 70's...how do you properly restore the original factory finish on the outside of the tank? Have it hot-tank galvanized? What would that cost?) 

 

Again, to each his own. But these new reproduction gas tanks for cars of the 1950's through the 1970's are really, really nice. And WAY cheaper than restoring a rusty old one...especially if you must do so repeatedly. 🙂 Cheers! 

20151112_132323.jpg

Edited by lump (see edit history)
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Lump, who did you have fabricate your tank? I travel to the Wooster Ohio area regularly and have a tank for a 23 Moon that either needs repaired or redone. Stainless steel sounds like a great option to me. How pleased are you with how it came out?

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On 3/29/2019 at 4:44 PM, ryan95 said:

Lump, who did you have fabricate your tank? I travel to the Wooster Ohio area regularly and have a tank for a 23 Moon that either needs repaired or redone. Stainless steel sounds like a great option to me. How pleased are you with how it came out?

Ryan, 

I used to be a sheet metal worker in the building trades in the Dayton, Ohio area. I got out many years ago, and pursued an entirely different career field. But I still have friends in the sheet metal workers local. One of them plays on my pool team, and he overheard me griping about that rusty tank one night, and saying that, "back in the day," when I worked in a shop with all the tools and equipment, I could have made a new tank myself. He offered to do the job for me, and did an amazing job. (That's the SS tank he made in the photo in my post above). He installed baffles exactly like my factory tank, and welded in reinforcement patches where holes would be cut for fuel lines, filler neck, etc. 

 

The above photo shows the newly arrived tank before the filler neck, gas gauge fitting, and drain petcock boss had been installed. A famous old drag racer and close friend of mine in the area fabricated those components for me...all of stainless steel. Then I had it painted and installed it. 

 

My drag racing friend (Paul Frost), also spent time repairing the impossible-to-find gas gauge/fuel pickup unit for my tank. It was originally made of zinc diecast, and it broke when I tried to tighten threads on the fuel line fitting. He does amazing work. 

 

I am thrilled with the results. If you can't find anyone to assist you, I can put you in touch with Paul. He can get one made for you. 

 

NOTE: Keep in mind that my tank had only single radius bends...no compound radii. This made it much simpler for fabrication at an industrial sheet metal shop level. If your tank has compound curves, etc, that would add another layer of difficulty. 

 

Cheers! 

Fuel gauge repair 2016 Paul Frost 1.jpg

Fuel gauge repair 2016 Paul Frost 2.jpg

IMG_6018.JPG

IMG_6019.JPG

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  • 3 months later...

Once I used POR-15 it's the only stuff I used from then on.

For the heck of it I poured a little on a concrete floor and let it cure as I wanted to see strong the cured film was.

POR looks like and is about the consistency of thin aluminum paint so it a was very thin test patch.

In a couple days I peeled it off the floor and found the very thin patch was impossible for me to tear with my hands.

POR doesn't like shiny metal.

It likes tight rust that gives it something to cling to.

One tank I did had a very tiny hole in it I had missed so I covered the leak with a piece of duct tape.

I owned that tractor for years and it never leaked a drop.

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I recently had my original, funky tank ('27 Packard) cleaned by a guy who rotated it for days with sand inside. Looks good as far as I can see. Not all shiny, but with some slight rusty-ness. Like the freckles of an Irish lass. The guy said he would not coat the interior, as "they always fail and that is more of a problem". He said I should just put oil in the gas. This discussion suggests that is a road I do not want to go down.

I just looked at it again. More than "slight", but it might be OK with an inline filter????

Jerry

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