Crazyfamily Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 Ok as many of you know I’ve been working to bring the 1927 Model 27 “Standard” back to life! We built a new fuel tank a few months ago and I just got around to lining it with KBS coatings fuel tank liner “Gold Standard” kit, I highly recommend their products! And for the money they are an incredible value but have the quality to back it up! So today starts the process of coating the outside of the tank and next weekend it goes back into the car along with the newly rebuilt and coated SW Vacuum Fuel pump! Just wanted to share my excitement and the tank..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 Front seam on tank.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 (edited) Ok time for a quick question for clarification, I didn’t take not of the position of the fuel gauge when I took tank out! so it looks like the gauge actually sits at an angle so when you stand at the fuel fill neck that the gauge dial sits at an angle like this?? is this correct? Yes we are going to restore the gauge dial as well and paint the E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F w fuel liner so it doesn’t come off w splashed fuel OR I have another plan of maybe actually soldering on brass letters of just the E and F only onto the brushed finish face of the dial? Edited March 16, 2019 by Crazyfamily (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 Well it’s gonna have to run at an angle, when I originally took it apart the top plate that acts a keeper to hold the gauge itself in place as you tighten the cap over it and keeps the gauge from spinning, it cane off and took one to two levels of the threads w it, there is a lip that helps will lining it back up, if I solder it back in place w the lip acting as a guide then the gauge will sit at an angle which is fine w me! if I am then standing at the filler neck gassing it up then the gauge will sit at an angle facing me! i like that actually! I did find a picture of the tank when I removed it and the gauge face sat w the slit in the dial sitting parallel to the ground..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 William That gage to work with the float has to swing parallel to the length of the tank to the left so it will register, This is my 1925 Standard but the gage is out of a 1927 Standard tank. With new nitrophyl float from the Snyders Ford. Master tank arrangement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROD W Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 William, I have never seen a gauge sitting at an angle. I agree with Larry and feel the gauge needs to be parallel with the tank for the float to move freely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 It must be parallel, and you should check that it functions completely by lifting the tank upside down and seeing that it is moving from Empty to Full, My baffles were laying in the bottom of my gas tank when I bought the car. I had given them my gas gauge to check operation. When I went to pick up my tank, they had swapped the baffles, so they had to re-open one end of the tank to swap them. When I did install the gauge, I did notice that the gauge face had to be turned just right, or it would hang up on the baffle. I would rebuild the entire gauge before installing the tank in the car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Thanks for input and I agree..... Ok so thus locating ring, how can I put the gauge together and then screw the whole thing onto the neck of the tank without the gauge spinning In the cap itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 William, You could try holding the float rod thru the fill nozzle, but I am not sure if you can reach it. You could also try assembling "the stack" of gaskets and glass, and then lightly hold it down while tightening the knurl nut. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the glass. I am reposting my tech note on the gauge installation, but I think I may have posted this before. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 24 minutes ago, Hubert_25-25 said: William, You could try holding the float rod thru the fill nozzle, but I am not sure if you can reach it. You could also try assembling "the stack" of gaskets and glass, and then lightly hold it down while tightening the knurl nut. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the glass. I am reposting my tech note on the gauge installation, but I think I may have posted this before. Hugh Many idea who sells new gauge faces REASONABLY? i still don’t see how you can reinstall without the gauge spinning in the process of putting the cap on! the only way way that makes sense is if the locating ring , not sure the correct term for it but the thing I circled in red, is welded to the neck permanently then install the gauge, then stack the gaskets and glass and screw on the cap?? Also if someone offers a new dial/face for sale reasonably then I’d buy a new one but if not then I’ll be either soldering on brass indicators for E thru F so they are impervious to gas, or my Wife will use fuel tank coating in black to paint on the indicators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 17, 2019 Share Posted March 17, 2019 William, This is what your gas gauge nozzle should look like. Perhaps the nozzle you have has been replaced and or installed the wrong way. Regarding gauge faces, These originally were very faintly etched. The only one available that I know if is about $235 and I show it above. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 On 3/16/2019 at 7:43 PM, dibarlaw said: William That gage to work with the float has to swing parallel to the length of the tank to the left so it will register, This is my 1925 Standard but the gage is out of a 1927 Standard tank. With new nitrophyl float from the Snyders Ford. Master tank arrangement. Where is the best place to purchase the various gaskets stacked to seal the fuel gauge ? William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 They have to be made up as Hugh and I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 William, See the March 17th posting and the procedure above. Myers sells the gaskets, glass, and nickeled cap. They will not know how many gaskets you will need as you need more than they use in a Dodge since you have a domed gauge. Fit the gauge in the cap with the gaskets first and see that you have full travel with the gauge and that the pointer does not hit the glass. It has to just barely clear hitting the glass. The single gasket between the glass and the cap should be a thin gasket. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted April 10, 2019 Share Posted April 10, 2019 I have what appears to be the same tank in usable condition after the extra hole is welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted April 11, 2019 Author Share Posted April 11, 2019 On 4/10/2019 at 10:19 AM, Mark Shaw said: I have what appears to be the same tank in usable condition after the extra hole is welded. Are you selling those parts Mark? If so please pm me what you'd like for the headlights...... The fuel tank should be a good catch for someone if you are parting w/ it as well, we made a brand new one but buying that one and refurbing it would have been a whole lot easier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 Already sold the headlights and tank at Bakersfield... Still have the tire mounts because they were too big to take... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Ok thanks Mark, nothing wrong w ones I have but having an extra glass lens or two isn’t bad thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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