Sign in to follow this  
Crippdaddy

Newbie looking to start a Project car

Recommended Posts

Here is the car she wants to buy, the guy says it runs (havent seen it run) he is asking 2600 but already said to my wife he would let it go for 2k. I told her I see 5 years and 40K min to restore she thinks that this is outrageous and doesn't know where my numbers are coming from. my numbers are a WAG but i thi are on the low end can anyone verify, thanks in advanced for the help and thanks everyone else for your posts.

 

Matt

20190312_163256_resized.jpg

20190312_163302_resized.jpg

20190312_163344_resized.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

There are better cars , maybe alot better, out where you are for 2G. 

Your numbers probably aren't far off.   That interior needs alot more than a set of seat covers. 

Honestly the best you would get out of it in the end is maybe 20 after the 5 years and 40G.  Alot of 49-52 Chevy 2 door sedans on the market for under 20 to compete with.

A friend bought a very nice 50 Chevy coupe with loads of accessories , really nice correct interior in very good.  Atleast 3 plus condition for around 16G  I believe. bout 3 years ago and it was advertised nationally so no special back door deal.  Just an average price for a good car. 

It was a few years ago but I sold this 48 Fleetline aero for I think $7500.  Original (very thin but shiny paint). good usable original interior alot of new chrome and accessories with no rust.  Turn key and it ran well. 

This Caddy a couple of years before that and it ran really well for 6G with original paint and very nice original chrome but it needed rear upholstery work because a raccoon ransacked the rear compartment but fortunately was exterminated before he made it to the front.  (word to the wise, make sure the rear 1/4 windows are locked when you store a car.  They are one way doors otherwise) 

 

 

IMG_6001.JPG

IMG_6830.JPG

IMG_6829.JPG

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Crippdaddy said:

she thinks we can get this 1949 styleine deluxe to where its ready for shows for under 10k and that it should be worth 30-50k when we are done

 

 

Sorry, you have it backwards.  It'll cost you $30,000-$50,000 to restore the car to "Show" quality and the car will be worth a lot less.  

 

If you are in the hobby to enjoy the car, then you should save your money and buy the best car you can afford.  And then enjoy your car as you maintain it over the years (they always need something).  If you are in the hobby to buy a car, "restore" it (here is how we use the words restore on this page ---as in restore the car to original showroom condition with correct parts, materials and finish) and then sell it, then you should stop now.  You will never get the money back, especially on the 49 Chevy.  My uncle restored a 1938 Chevy in the 1980s.  He bought all the correct parts, the best he could find.  Made everything just right.  Did a lot of work on his own and farmed out work he couldn't do.  He spent about $30,000 in 1980s money to restore a car he eventually sold for about $13,000 (this was the 80s remember).  

 

 

 

 

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

 

Edited by Pomeroy41144 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

That's a rough condition parts car worth $200, maybe as much as $500 if it has something on it you really need. Did you watch the Studebaker video series I posted? He sold that car for $4000 or maybe less, AFTER doing some fix up. That is the kind of deal you should be looking for, a car like that or better. One that is complete, running, and does not need major work. No one in his right mind would try to restore that Chevy.

 

You can do WAY better than that Chevy for $2600 especially in Texas. If you can afford to spend $5000 - $10,000 you can be looking at some quite nice cars. If you can't afford that much, don't buy a cheap car because you can't afford to fix it up.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

You should know that Chevrolet cars and pickup trucks before 1953 had an engine with poured babbitt bearings and splash oiling system. This means if you drive one over 50 MPH the engine life will be short. How short depends on the condition of the engine but a few hours running at 60+ usually results in burned out bearings and a ruined engine. Sometimes a few minutes. And the bearings are very expensive to replace.

 

This is why most of them have been replaced by newer, 53 - 62 model engines. They made the same type engine up to 1962 and they are similar and interchangeable. So, if you are looking at a Chevy from that era learn to spot the difference. You will either have to live with a car that has an incorrect engine, or one you can't drive over 50.

 

If you think this means I am knocking the Chevy - I should tell you I have a 1942 Chev with the splash oiler  engine sitting in my driveway.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

The one your wife is thinking about would make an OK "rat " style ride. If the paperwork is in order, and the body free of serious rust {more than the all over surface rust} then $1500-$2000 might be understandable. But only if the seller has a valid title in hand. And don't even think of restoring it. Just a fun driver rat with blanket seat covers. Spend only on getting it driving, nothing cosmetic. And you will learn, meet people, have fun and at the end of the day you just might get 75 cents back for every $ you spend. Relatively cheap fun.

 

Greg in Canada

Edited by 1912Staver (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

1912Staver remember he is in Texas which is full of rust free old cars. He can do a lot better even for $1500 - $2000. And he should not get involved in such a major project just starting out. It would be like starting a new fitness program by slapping Mike Tyson. You might get a workout you wished you hadn't. Don't overmatch yourself in your first fight.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You're getting good advice here. Instead of a full frame-off restoration, buy a decent car that you can tweak and upgrade. I promise that no old car you buy will be perfect and there will always be little projects you can tackle. I have a 1941 Buick Century on which I'm doing a frame-off restoration and it has stalled. I used to have the time and a garage for the work, but life gets in the way. I will likely pay someone else to finish the job.

 

I also have several "finished" cars on which I'm always doing smaller projects and I find that MUCH more rewarding. The sorting process is a great way to stay motivated because 1) it never requires you to take your car off the road, 2) every time you fix something, the car gets better, and 3) you can do it in pieces as your time and budget allow. For example, I drive my '41 Buick Limited limousine all the time and aside from when the rear axle was broken, it has never been off the road. But I have done a dozen little projects on it over the years that I've owned it and they're all rewarding. Right now I'm fabricating an entirely new exhaust system. I also installed fog lights, re-wired the interior lights, rebuilt the shocks and front suspension, tuned the carburetors, detailed the engine bay, and a bunch of other little things. Each time, the car gets better and the project is not so big that it's overwhelming.

 

Having moved a shop and a disassembled car, I would strongly recommend against it. What a nightmare and parts are sure to get lost. Keep your car intact and moving will never be a problem.

 

PS: Forget the nonsense about spending your money on Disneyworld instead--I just got back from a week there with my family and if someone asks me if I would rather go to Disney or cut off a finger, my response would be, "Which finger?"

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would find a better option.  That one looks like a lot of work and a lot of money.  I would find something that does run, does stop, and has all the features that came with the car operable.  If it needs a little interior work and cosmetics then you would be able to still drive it, enjoy it and when time permits do the repairs.  Rust repair, engine, trans, and suspension work alone will be costly.  There are a lot of other stylish cars out there that you would be better off with.  Just adding my opinion.  Good luck.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

"The guy says it runs" ha ha I got quite a laugh out of that. Sure it runs, with the battery,  ignition system, valve cover and air filter missing and the fuel line disconnected.

 

Ask him to stick the key in the ignition and fire it up. If it starts and runs in the condition shown  buy it and you will have the miracle car of the ages.

 

Is that the bird that told your wife you could restore that heap for $10,000 and sell it for $40,000?

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For a second I saw a new rubber looking fuel line and thought well he tried,  but the nut to the carb on the fuel line looks untouched as does the rest of the fuel lines so I don't think so.  I didn't think that carb would run anyways from the looks of it.  Looks completely rusted up.  I think they are all iron not potmetal if I'm not mistaken.  I would assume the valve cover is there somewhere but it really doesn't look like it had an air cleaner on it any time in the recent past. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

1912Staver remember he is in Texas which is full of rust free old cars. He can do a lot better even for $1500 - $2000. And he should not get involved in such a major project just starting out. It would be like starting a new fitness program by slapping Mike Tyson. You might get a workout you wished you hadn't. Don't overmatch yourself in your first fight.

Yes, I do tend to overlook the advantage Southern residents have. Here in the Pacific North West that Chevy would be considered not that bad a deal at say $1500.00. Many around here {British Columbia particularly, Washington State uses very little road salt and the cars are definitely better} are significantly more corroded and definitely at least $1000.00 and up. A rough condition parts car for the $200.00 you mention in these parts usually has no floors whatsoever, the bottom inch of the doors missing, no trunk floor at all, you get the picture. $200.00 parts car is actually a $150.00 piece of scrap metal. With virtually no salvageable parts.

 

Greg in Canada

Edited by 1912Staver (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

For a second I saw a new rubber looking fuel line and thought well he tried,  but the nut to the carb on the fuel line looks untouched as does the rest of the fuel lines so I don't think so.  I didn't think that carb would run anyways from the looks of it.  Looks completely rusted up.  I think they are all iron not potmetal if I'm not mistaken.  I would assume the valve cover is there somewhere but it really doesn't look like it had an air cleaner on it any time in the recent past. 

Over the years I have brought a lot of cars back to life that had been out of commission for up to 30 years, possibly longer. 9 times out of 10 I can get an old motor to run again without too much trouble. The only time I have been completely stymied is when someone left the air cleaner off or the spark plugs out, which rusted up the inside of the engine and froze it up so bad it would take a safe cracker 2 years to free it up.

 

So I can be confident of getting an old car running 9 times out of ten if it is intact and untouched. If the air cleaner is off and the spark plugs out, that drops to 1 chance out of 10.

 

It may be different in the dry climate of Texas but I wouldn't bet my money on it.

 

 

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, auburnseeker said:

For a second I saw a new rubber looking fuel line and thought well he tried,  but the nut to the carb on the fuel line looks untouched as does the rest of the fuel lines so I don't think so.  I didn't think that carb would run anyways from the looks of it.  Looks completely rusted up.  I think they are all iron not potmetal if I'm not mistaken.  I would assume the valve cover is there somewhere but it really doesn't look like it had an air cleaner on it any time in the recent past. 

Yes it looks to me like someone tried to get it running and failed, then left it with the air cleaner off and spark plugs out. So the engine has 3 strikes against it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've seen better examples of the Ford for the same money and that was here in the Northeast.  Lots of options for one if they aren't in love with a particular car. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

1912Staver remember he is in Texas which is full of rust free old cars. He can do a lot better even for $1500 - $2000. And he should not get involved in such a major project just starting out. It would be like starting a new fitness program by slapping Mike Tyson. You might get a workout you wished you hadn't. Don't overmatch yourself in your first fight.

 

That Rusty' guy : got a way with words, don't he ? Extrapolating upon his very appropriate analogy, I just did a kinda quick "punchstat". Conclusion is that you are now about 1/2 way to having that 1000 years of collective experience I mentioned earlier, at your service here. 

 

Now go back to the posting above by 60FlatTop, our very own esteemed Bernie Daily. To my knowledge, there has never been as good a piece of advice offered to anyone for any reason in the long history of AACA. SERIOUSLY, Matt. I MEAN it !!!! With all well considered respect due to used car salesmen, a number of whom are wonderful, kind, supportive, contributing members among us, I have a theory. I have a suspicion that your dear wife has fallen under the wicked spell of the type of salesman who could sell hog chitterlings to Scrooge McDuck. 

 

If great fortune smiles upon you, you might just luck into an encore from Mr. Daily. From time to time he fills in running biographies of a number of his family members. If you don't mind my saying this, he just might have a hilarious anecdote from the back of the car lot which could aid in the deprogramming of your wife. From the picture of that not-so-fine fo'ty nine, matrimonial bliss may hang in the balance !!!!

 

         No "Iron" Mike Tyson, but in my prime 50-60 years ago threw a pretty good punch or two,   -    Cadillac Carl 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

For my first vintage car I paid about $6,500 US for my  ‘53 Chrysler. It was running and I drove it home. That’ll be two years ago this May. In two years I have done all my own work and spent about $3K in parts making it more reliable and safer.  Engine Valve grind. New tires & rims. Brake work. Rad & heater core pull & flush. Fuel pump. Drop fuel tank and flush. Full tune up. Seat belts. Wheel bearings. New exhaust.  Voltage regulator. New battery & cables.  Rebuild tube AM radio. Fix all the little stuff. Etc.  All the stuff that almost  any car needs after 25 years no matter how old it is.

 

The old Chrysler brings me great joy. The cruise time with family and friends is great. It’s a 10 footer car that I drive about 1500 miles per cruising season.  There is no way in h e l l I’d buy a rusted out car like the Chevy you posted above. There are so many options that look good and you can tinker away on as I have. 

 

My wife likes to cruise with me but has her own hobbies. I don’t have a lot invested in this car and it gives back to me, what put in. I’m happy. 

 

 

3143CCC3-B26C-4EF9-B12D-F40B183A9AEC.jpeg

Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Crippdaddy I thought I would see what kind of cars might be available in your area so I took a look at San Antonio Cragslist. Here are a few possibilities, or at least, the kind of car I think you ought to be looking at.

 

1948 Dodge in nice shape if you can get over the Mod interior. If not there are always seat covers. I like old Dodges, they were a well made car better in many ways than Ford or Chev. This one looks like the best buy at $5500 of all the cars I found. Seller says 'top speed 55'. Possible red flag. This car should cruise easily at 50 - 60 and top out around 90. Either the seller is a very nervous driver or something is the matter, I would do a compression test and check oil pressure to assess engine condition. If the engine is tired it is not the end of the world, all parts are available and they are not difficult to rebuild. But if the engine is tired this should be reflected in the price.

 

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/schertz-1948-dodge-2dr-sedan/6819643316.html

 

1956 Olds 88 sedan, another Best Buy because the seller spent $30,000 restoring it and is willing to sell for $10,500. Which tends to confirm what everyone has been saying.

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-antonio-1956-oldsmobile-rocket-88/6806069934.html

 

1953 Buick Special, $9,500 nice looking car

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-antonio-1953-buick-special/6820393693.html

 

1951 Packard 200 for $6400 Someone has lavished a lot of love on this car, I'm not crazy about the eye popping colors but to each his own. The paint, chrome, upholstery, engine appear excellent. I feel drawn to this car because of condition and because I like Packards but you might want to consider something more mainstream for your first collector car.

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-antonio-1951-packard-200-deluxe/6826701342.html

 

These were chosen with somewhat arbitrary criteria of $10,000 or less and no newer than the fifties. These are the kinds of cars you should be looking at. The more expensive models may be better buys than the Fords and Chevs, and also better on the road with bigger engines, and can handle modern  hiway speeds better, at least cruise at 60 or 65 without straining.

 

Don't be in too big a hurry, if you watch the ads and make some offers you should be able to get a nice car at the right price within a month or 2. I like to look at the local ads in my area, but find I have to ration myself because I find an irresistible buy about once a month.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

 Wild card entry. Or one for you Packard fans, I would definitely be looking this one up if it was closer.

Someone is liquidating a Packard collection. In such cases you can often get some good buys. In this case there are 2 decent cars, but one needs upholstery the other an engine. Those are the ones I would be looking at. Either might be a good deal at the right price. The asking prices are on the high side, compared to the eye popping Packard linked above. You should be able to negotiate. Especially if the seller has a spare engine to include in the deal. Once again, San Antonio Craigslist. Cars are in Somerset. There are other cars and parts, only 2 of them are runners.

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/somerset-1951-and-1952-packard/6833244297.html

 

On second thoughts maybe these should have gone in with the best buys. Crippdaddy indicated he was interested in a car that needed work, these might be good ones to start on without being too overwhelming. But of course, the price should reflect the work that needs to be done. Who wants to work for nothing, or for the profit of the seller? I would be interested if the seller could cut about $2000 off these prices.

 

Incidentally there were other cars that nearly made the cut but seemed outside the OP's area of interest. 62 Chrysler $3450, needs work but is a runner and at least you would stand a chance of making a decent car out of it.https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/san-antonio-classic-62-chrysler-newport/6815196817.html 40 Ford sedan $9900 looks like a nice car well priced.https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/center-point-40-ford-4dr-delux/6815480268.html 39 Plymouth P8 $6500 needs interior way overpriced but if it doesn't sell, he may take an offer. If you could find another one to get the parts from, and buy the car for about half today's asking,  you might make out ok.https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/crowley-1939-plymouth-p8/6825704648.html

1940 Buick $4000 https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/weimar-1940-buick/6824007252.html

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On reflection that 56 Olds 88 looks like the best buy if the restoration was done properly. A lot more car for not a lot of money compared to the others.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

This would be my choice.  A hundred times better than any chevrolet of the same year or era. In the sixties I had 2 '53 Buick cars.  Drove them thousands of miles. One was a two door standard the other a four door automatic.  Both were excellent cars  Would cruise in seventies an eighties with no  trouble.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this