terry1985 Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Hi there I’ve been trying to deal with trying to find out what year my motor was made and what it belongs to so I know the suffix code is only showing the first 2 digits to it and the casting number to the block is 3970010 not an 8 I scrubbed it down to make sure and the casting date is j198 but I still cant figure this out and I don’t want to wreck any kind of value incase it’s a 302 I know very rare chance but still better safe then sorry and I don’t want to buy wrong parts please help Edited March 10, 2019 by terry1985 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 (edited) Terry, That is a good block. Very common 350 Chevrolet, high nickel content block, 4 bolt mains, used in high performance as well as trucks for several years. It was available from 1969 as a 350 but also used as a 302 in that year. Can you share the stamping numbers? That will determine what the engine's original use was. The date code you've posted should be from October 19, 1968. This block was discontinued in 1975. Greg Edited March 10, 2019 by GregLaR (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Ya I can go take some pictures of it right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Ya I can go take some pictures of it right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 I gave suffix code an extra scrub to get as much as I could to show threw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Smolinski Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 CKS suffix code = 1972 350 cu. in. 255 hp, 4 bbl carb, 4 speed trans. NOT a 302. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 ok Thank you but what is it’s out of Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 And the date stamp has me very confused because that wouldn’t line up with 72 would it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) Terry, I'm fairly confident you can stop worrying about that being a 302 block. It is a later engine...from the 1970's, not 1968 casting. I suspected that as soon as I saw that blue paint...(but paint color is not very reliable...just a clue). Keep in mind that you should never assume that a 3970010 block is a "4-bolt main" block without removing the oil pan. The castings are the same; it's just a matter whether they drill it for 2 main-clamp bolt holes, or 4. The exact same blocks running down the exact same assembly line were drilled both ways. First, small block chevy block castings changed certain features over the years, and early model 3970010 blocks had a longer pad in the numbers-stamping area in front of the passenger cylinder head. The short, almost square pad you show in your photos is from mid-to late 1970's. (See photo below from a book I researched and wrote years ago for Amos Press, publisher of CARS & PARTS magazine). Second, as soon as you see a three digit stamped number in that pad, you know it can't be pre-1970. I looked up "CKS" in another Chevy engine number book, by my old friend Al Colvin. He shows "CKS" in a couple of applications, one in 1972, and the other in 1973. So it's possible that your "8" in that casting number is a boogered-up "3" (very common occurrence...the font GM chose for their date codes was unfortunate). It's a fine block, assuming it's in good condition. Edited March 11, 2019 by lump (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thank you for so much info I’m just trying to figure out now what it’s out of for parts wise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Well, like I said, ASSUMING it is in good condition, it is a fine block. And you can quit worrying about the collector value of an original 1969 302 engine. Without the stamp "DZ" up front, and since it does not have that medium stamping pad, no collector is going to pay a premium for it. Keep in mind that the only difference between that block being a 350 versus a 302 is the big-journal short-throw forged crankshaft (casting # 3941178). So go ahead and use this block to build something that you really like, and enjoy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry1985 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 I appreciate the help with everything I’m just curious of what kind of vehicle it came out of truck or car kinda thing to order parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 This same basic block served in a LOT of different applications. Basically, it is just a large journal 350 block. It is a platform for EITHER an economy-oriented low-horsepower cruiser which gets maximum gas mileage on the highway, or for a really hot race-only engine...depending which parts you add to it. Countless engines intended for everything from a heavy duty pickup truck to typical GM passenger cars all used that same block. If it was drilled & threaded for 4 main-cap bolts, then it was a 4-bolt main block (most commonly used in pickup trucks by 1973). If it was planned to be used in Grandma's 4 door Caprice...it probably was drilled for 2 bolt main caps, and came with a cast iron intake, perhaps even with 2 bbl carb and "low performance" cylinder heads with small valves and ports. (By 1973, most Chevy's were like that). You see, the block doesn't tell you what "engine" you have there, any more than a foundation identifies a building. I would recommend that you find a professional engine builder who comes highly recommended from local car guys you know and trust, and allow that builder to assist you in selecting parts. Indeed, my best advice would be that you should not show up to the engine shop with your own cam, lifters, pistons, heads, valves, intake, etc, etc, and then ask them for help. Rather, tell a good professional engine builder what you plan to achieve with your vehicle and this engine. Let them know the weight of your vehicle, the type of transmission, and most of all...the way you will use and/or enjoy this vehicle. Then allow THEM to select your parts. Then you will end up with a motor which has been designed and engineered to serve your purposes, your way. Yes, you can order your own parts cheaper online. And if you have the tools, experience, and skills, you can assemble an engine yourself. But I cannot count how many people I have known over the years who have spent a bundle of money "saving dollars," by ordering engine parts themselves, getting an engine built, only to be sharply disappointed with the results. Your block can be anything you want it to be. Only, have a skilled pro design it for your success. You'll be glad you did. 😊 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stvaughn Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 If you want to build it yourself read this book. https://www.amazon.com/Lingenfelter-Modifying-Small-block-Chevy-Engines/dp/155788238X/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3FBQ1OZCOZT5N&keywords=lingenfelter&qid=1552311432&s=gateway&sprefix=Linginfe%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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