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Thoughs on safty, 2019 (warning IMNSHO)


padgett

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Now I am talking about cars we drive on public roads and not trailer queens or occasional on low speed roads. Lets just say cars expected to be able to be driven over two miles and over 40 mph.

Now I know that to some this is blasphemy, after all thew factories produced perfect cars. However I am talking about surviving in 2019 traffic.

- Tires: there have been major changes in tires since the last century. Modern radials do not squirm or do strange things in the rain. Modern radials with nylon caps or belts over the steel plys feel much like a bias ply tire would if it had twice the gripping power. Bias tire sit on the road. A good radial today has a fractal contact patch that does not slide easily.(not talking about tubbed restomods with 345 section rear tires that do not go out when wet but sane sizes 205-255 depending on weight). All of my cars have modern radials rated excellent in the wet. (I like BFG Comp-2s). Anything I drive on the street MUST have great stopping power.

 

-Headlights: The old Guide or Lucas lamps are great to look at but are no match for modern Halogen/HID/LED bulbs. With an older incandescent it is easy to be blinded in modern traffic if have to drive at night. I've been using Halogen (Cibie) lights since the '60s and today consider SilverStar Ultras or Philips +130s to be a MINIMUM acceptable. Have mixed emotions about HIDs, the best halogens seem a bit better on the road. Have not had any LEDs. Yet. Since a show/cruise I often go to ends after dar, even my Judge had modern (bulb type) halogens. Keep in mind that in the US for many years the Fed allowed only sealed beams, it was not the manufacturers idea and as long as the playing field was level it worked. Sorta (see Cibies). Perasonally have always been funny about lights, behind the B/P 'vette is my daily driver (1970).

buvette2.jpg 

 

- Batteries: the wet type lead acid batteries are ded. I buy only AGM replacements and they have been lasting about a decade in Florida heat (just had to replace a 2010). Particularly since computer cars (first seen from GM in MY 1981 so 39 years ago (like Jack Benny) and are very sensitive to good batteries   (modern GM and Mercedes seem the most sensitive).

 

- Bluetooth: all of my cars have hands free telephony. Since I have a few friends who have been known to call and I refuse to try to handle a cell phone while driving, I consider it essential  particularly for GPS and streaming music (strangely adding good Bluetooth with streaming audio to my older cars is relatively easy, the worst is my '11 Caddy).

 

Guess I've never been a real collector, all of my cars have licenses, insurance, and a garage door. Personally enjoy driving more than showing.

 

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Seems logical to me.

If one is not up for judging and drives their cars like you (or I) do then these upgrades make perfect sense.

Churning butter may be quaint but I'd rather hit the supermarket today.

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I also drive my cars and have little interest in getting a plastic trophy. As such, I have installed radial tires on both my Model A roadster and my 1954 Ford Sunliner. The ride is much safer, in my opinion and does not take away from the 'feel' of driving an antique car.  I draw the line at modern radials, since I think the look of the lower profile just does not go with the older cars. Instead, I chose the radials that look like bias ply tires, but that was my choice. It's like oil, I just would not run my older cars with oil of the 30's (even if I could find some).  For headlights, I just installed a set of 7 " LED lamps on the 54 that I purchased from Rodtiques. These have a sealed beam body with a replaceable LED bulb. The run on 12 volt minus ground, but you can get an inverter to change the source from 6 volt plus ground. They are outstanding and draw far less current than the halogen bulbs.  I think you would be more than satisfied with these replacements.

 

Frank

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