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power antenna replacement

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On an '88, was the power antenna unique to the Reatta or what other models and years of Buicks (or other GM products) had the same power antenna (and identical wiring harness)?

I was wondering if it was possible to do an inexpensive fix by purchasing a working power antenna from a junkyard/used parts source and simply removing a few bolts and clips and slipping in the used working one?

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The thing that usually happens is the plastic cord breaks. The replacement part number is 22039349, they cost under $20. Go to www.reatta.net for instructions on how to replace it.

If either of the two lower antenna mast sections are damaged, then you might start looking in junk yards for those replacement parts as they are not available from GM.

The GM antennas are similar for most cars, the differences are the method of attaching at the fender.

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I cannot hear any noise coming from the antenna motor when I turn the radio on and off so I think it may be the antenna motor itself as opposed to just the mast cable. That's why I figured checking the junkyards might produce a cheap fix if I can find the same antenna motor and wiring setup. If many GM's have the same antenna motor, hopefully that will work.

As an aside, I also read the section on your website on replacing the mast cable and it sounds a little tricky especially because I don't have a drill to drill out the rivets.

Years ago, I recall going to a shop that sold replacement masts and I purchased one for a BMW. The fellow there simply unscrewed the top of the mast and pulled the broken cable end right out of the mast sleeve. He then had me turn on the radio and inserted the new cable end into the mast sleeve. He then had me turn off the radio and the new mast cable was sucked into the sleeve and it worked fine thereafter. The whole process took a couple of minutes. I assume that process won't work with the Reatta antenna setup?

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it's not as bad as all that and everything I've needed to do so far has been accomplished without a drill. At least I own a torx (sp?)screwdriver and a few other essentials. I've also used a current light to test if I'm getting power through the wiring harness to the power antenna and indeed I am, so again I'm thinking it's likely in the antenna motor itself as opposed to the mast. As well, I can manually pull the mast up and down and it is in perfect condition with no bends.

It would just make my search a little simpler if anybody knows of other GM's (specific makes and year ranges)that have a virtually identical power antenna so that my journey through the junkyards doesn't turn into an expedition.

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The Reatta power antenna is common to a number of GM cars of the period. I've used power antennas from '83 Century's. Same unit. Be aware that they tend to suffer the broken fish line, so your junk yarding may be exactly that. BTW, the latest part # I've used is 22038195 for the nylon cable. $14 from Lambert

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I'm sure you have probably already checked the fuse, but I'll mention it just in case. Replaced the cable on my antenna after owning the car for a year. It was not that difficult. Checked the operation before I but it back in. Worked fine. Installed it and the antenna would not work. Pulled it out; retested. Worked fine. Back in, no dice. Finally looked at the fuse and it was missing. Previous owner got tired of listening to the motor run. No problems with it ever since.

Al

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Well, colour me perplexed! I am certain I checked that fuse first, but, I thought before replying I'd better be certain and couldn't believe it when I saw that it was blown! However, I replaced it with a new 10 amp and it didn't fix the problem.

Let me update. This afternoon I did my junkyard tour and finally found one place with an identical unit with only the mounting bracket and antenna connector slightly different. I plugged it in and it didn't work. The fellow from the yard that was helping me tried to test their unit from a battery and it apparently worked a few weeks ago, but, not now. He did however manage to get my antenna motor working directly from his battery and it was obvious the cable wasn't working. He said his unit's cable was fine so we did a little junk yard surgery and put his cable and sleeve into my motor and plastic surround.

To test it, he went from his battery directly to the little black connector box that is attached to the antenna mast and bypassed both the power supply and antenna wires. He managed to get the power antenna to work and it properly fully extended itself. We then put it back into my trunk and connected the antenna wires to that little black connctor box as well as the power wires (with the grey end on the wire harness) and....nothing.

So I now know I have a power antenna that is capable of working. The mast is fully extended and I can't budge it to try to retract it so I assume the cable is properly intact and in its spool.

With the new fuse in place, I checked for current going through the power supply wires. I now get power through both the orange and pink wires when the radio is on and only through one of them when it's off (I got power through that wire even when the fuse was out, so I don't understand that at all). The black wire doesn't show power under either off or on radio positions.

What happens now is that I am getting a strange ticking noise from the antenna. I disconnected the power supply wires and the noise stopped. But I get no antenna movement when I turn the radio on or off with all the wiring harnesses connected. Any ideas???

How do I check to see if I've got a ground problem? Is that little black connector box attached to the antenna mast the problem?

Or what other stuff should I check?

So close yet......I'm not quite there.

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That little black connector box you refer to is a relay. the ticking sound is probably the electro magnet being energised but not closing ie; chattering. I believe there are escentially two hot wires and a Gnd. going to the Antenna. When an Antenna is disassembled you'd find contactors that make and break when the Mast is fully extended or fully retracted. The Antenna actually shuts it's self off. The relay (black connector box) I believe reverses the DC Power to the Motor to reverse it's direction ie; Up-Down.

The wire that's hot all the time I would think is only to energise the Antennaa Motor in the "Down direction. When the radio is turned on, the second (orange or pink) wire is hot and energises the relay and powers the Motor in reverse. Or something like that. wink.gif

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The antenna might have gone UP and then the plastic line broke...causing the "ticking" .....once it breaks, it will not go down.

UP operation.. (going into the relay)Black is ground, pink is from radio, and orange in 12V (hot at all times) When you turn on the radio, it picks thee relay and the antenna should go up. Note that 12V are going to both terminal A & B of the relay.

When you turn off the radio (or shut off the ignition) the radio power is dropped and the relay goes the down mode.

If you want to bypass the relay apply power to the motor wires.....

White=+12V, Green= ground for UP operation

Green=+12v, Grey = ground for DOWN operation

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Thank you (and the other previous posters) for the education at Power Antenna U.

So what should my next step be if the clicking/ticking sound I'm hearing is indeed the elctro magnet being enegised but not closing?

Does this indicate a grounding problem or something else?

Fortunately, when I bought my car I got a service manual with it and I note on page 9A-10 (Radio-Tape player) that they show how to raise or lower the antenna by connecting the battery directly to the antenna wiring harness(To lower: + = grey wire; - = green wire).

I assume I should run this check to make sure the antenna will still operate properly.

Other than going out and buying very long wires to run from my battery directly to the antenna wires, is there a simpler (or safer) way?

Thanks to all for the info and suggestions.

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Thanks Barney,

You were posting as I was typing. The ticking sound I hear is not constant. I hear it every 3 - 5 seconds and it sounds more "electrical" than broken mechanical, however, doing the bypass you suggest (and which I was referring to also) would certainly determine if the cable did break when the antenna was fully extended (as it now is). So, is there any easier way than just running long wires from my battery?

And secondly, do you have any opinion on whether this might be a grounding problem given what I've described thus far? If I do have a grounding problem, I assume that the going direct from the batery test will bypass the problem. Is that correct?

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OK, here's a primer on power antenna wiring.

There are two plugs on the antenna relay, one goes to the ant.motor, the other to the car harness. The later has black, pink, and org wires. Black is chassis ground; pink is +12 with radio ON, and org. is hot all the time via fuse #3.

The other connector has WHT,GREEN,SLATE leads. Disconnecting this connector from the relay, you can make (test) the operation of the antenna by the following operation.

DOWN Green (-), white (+)

UP Green (+), Slate (-)

Power for this test can come from the ORG. lead on the other connector

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OK, I ran a wire from the orange wire in the power harness to the green wire in the antenna harness. I then ran another wire from the grey wire in the antenna harness to a screw on the car's body. I was trying to make the antenna go down. All that happened was I blew the 10 amp antenna fuse (#3).

My repair manual says to lower the antenna to use the white wire on the antenna harness as the positive and the green as the negative (which seems to be the opposite of what you guys are suggesting). So I also tried running the wire from the orange in the power harness to the white in the antenna harness and ran the other wire from the green in the antenna harness to the car body. Nothing happened that time either, but, the fuse didn't blow.

Radio still works, but, when the wiring harnesses are connected up to the relay I'm still just getting that clicking sound every 5 or more seconds.

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Not a big deal, although I'm still looking for a solution. I tried the long route by running positive and negative wires directly from the battery to the antenna wiring harness and I couldn't duplicate the movement from yesterday. All I got was that same sporadic every 5 second or so electric clicking noise that I get when the regular wiring harnesses are all connected. I should mention that I get that clicking noise even when the car is shut off and key is out of the ignition. I guess the antenna motor is attempting to start to retract, but, can't get going for some reason.

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Barney Eaton are you still rebuilding power antenna's for the Reatta? I now have two broken ones. The original and a replacement I bought from West Coast Parts. I can send both to you? How much and what is your address in Dallas, TX. Sheba65 Las Vegas, NV

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I sent a PM but for anyone interested, I do repair/rebuild the Reatta and other GM power antennas built after 1980.

You send me your antenna and I fix it for a flat $50 plus return shipping ($15) Sometimes I have Reatta power antennas that I can sell outright (repaired) you will need to check with me on availabity. There is a slight difference between 1990 and earlier antenna, so I need to know the year.

I just did two antenna for another Reatta owner in Las Vegas

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Is Barney Eaton still modifying/rebuilding power antennas.  I have an original AC Delco part #22048604 for a 1987 buick grand national that I would like to have cable installed,  replacing the plastic.  Are you still doing this work on power antennas.  I can ship it to you.

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For anyone reading this ancient post,  some things have changed.  

The GM part numbers listed back in 2002 have been discontinued and if you find the parts on Ebay they are usually $35 and up.

I stopped using the GM parts around 2008 because the new parts were brittle and customers were having failures with the new GM parts.

 

I now replace the plastic line with plastic coated steel cable,  my price is still $50 plus shipping (at this time it is still $15 )

 

I do the GM Slimline (used since 1980) from many GM vehicles.

 

If your earlier GM antenna (earlier than 1980) has good mast,  I can also repair them but at a higher price.

 

   Please contact me before sending as this is a spare time sideline. 512-869-5114

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I sent a PM but for anyone interested, I do repair/rebuild the Reatta and other GM power antennas built after 1980.

You send me your antenna and I fix it for a flat $50 plus return shipping ($15) Sometimes I have Reatta power antennas that I can sell outright (repaired) you will need to check with me on availabity. There is a slight difference between 1990 and earlier antenna, so I need to know the year.

I just did two antenna for another Reatta owner in Las Vegas

Hi Barney, great job on repairing my '89 antenna.  So, there are differences between Reatta antennas?  Which years are the same?  I have a new AC Delco 22071328 antenna.  What year does that fit? 

 

Thanks.  Russ

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The difference is how the coax is attached.

1988-1990 there was a short (16" piece) coax attached to the antenna mast with 2 screws.

1991, GM made some changes ....there is an aluminum connector near the top of the mast and the coax plugs into that.    hardly noticeable but the chrome mast diameter was reduced from .300 to .250 in diameter.    This is only important if you bend or break a mast....they are not interchangeable between early and 1991.

 

The attached photo has a 1991 at the top and the earlier design with the black coax is on the bottom

post-76006-0-36691000-1437423928_thumb.j

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)

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The difference is how the coax is attached.

1988-1990 there was a short (16" piece) coax attached to the antenna mast with 2 screws.

1991, GM made some changes ....there is an aluminum connector near the top of the mast and the coax plugs into that.    hardly noticeable but the chrome mast diameter was reduced from .300 to .250 in diameter.    This is only important if you bend or break a mast....they are not interchangeable between early and 1991.

 

The attached photo has a 1991 at the top and the earlier design with the black coax is on the bottom

 

Thanks Barney.  Mine looks like the lower unit with the black coax, so fits 1988-90.

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