Garysriv

Main A/C Hoses -Refurbish Vendor?

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Posted (edited)

Now that my car is running, I'm thinking ahead to getting the A/C working.  When I tore it down, after sitting over 30 years the system was still "slightly" pressurized.  However, when I took the 2 main hoses off the compressor they looked pretty cruddy inside.  Does anyone refurbish these or sell them new?  Also, has anyone converted to a more efficient compressor?

Edited by Garysriv (see edit history)

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I agree, a good ac shop is well equipped to remake the original hoses. That is what we always do when we need them.  Best thing is that you have examples, so they can duplicate exactly

 

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I took all my 63 AC hoses to an industrial hydraulic hose shop and had triple wall 134a spec hose used to rebuild the AC hoses. I’d look in your local directory for such a shop. When you are rebuilding an almost 60 year old AC system in a 63 Riviera throw all away unless you are certain the components work as they should. After 3 seasons of jerking around with AC in my 63 I replaced everything I could NEW. Throw away the STV valve and get the STV valve eliminator. If this seems intense then it is. Another option:

Go to Florida, Arizona, or Texas and go to a known specialty shop for AC and tell them to put in an aftermarket system.

Unfortunately, for me the AC story I have is not a good one.

At this point I reinstalled my AC system my damn self with a lot of help from patient gents/experts on the forum. 

I now have a solid tested leak free AC system ready for R12 charging.

stay tuned 

Turninator

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I replaced mine with A VINTAGE AIR SETUP and could not have been happier.  The person who bought y Riv loves it.

 

Down here in Texas it get hot and that system keeps the car icy cold.

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Nothing like a happy customer with a good system.

Thank you for your input.

Some areas are stronger than others in certain areas.

In central Maryland we have some real good crab cakes and plenty of taxes for all. No AC techs any place in Maryland.

Turbinator

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1 hour ago, Turbinator said:

Nothing like a happy customer with a good system.

Thank you for your input.

Some areas are stronger than others in certain areas.

In central Maryland we have some real good crab cakes and plenty of taxes for all. No AC techs any place in Maryland.

Turbinator

I have replaced the condensor, drier, compressor, will be doing the lines, stv valve.  Flu0109191616a.thumb.jpg.f6fb93ce700d4cab716f779219fa9885.jpgshed the evaporator and praying.   I did do a vintage air system on my gto and I have to say its a great product.

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If, the STV sticks my experience was my system was contaminated. Through a series of poor workmanship events by other paid AC techs AND me not knowing what I’m doing I had more STV failures. All told after 3 STV re/builds by paid known national companies I said no more. All the STV failures could have very well been my fault. I’ve paid for my education on mobile AC. Your pic and you sound like you have an understanding of what you are doing. The idea of having the hoses rebuilt is, I believe, a good decision on your part.

i forgot to mention the controls! I had to put a vacuum switch in and all new vacuum actuators. 3&4 vacuum actuators were kaput. I had to settle for a new single new vacuum actuator to replace 3&4. That replacement of the single actuator under the heater box was really hard to reach the nuts and bolts no joke. If you have a 63 Riv there is no new manual water control valve. I replaced my broken manual control valve with a vacuum control water valve. Forgot to mention one of the bell arms was broken and I had to have a new bell arm fabricated and reinstalled in the control panel.

im not a mechanic, but I’m getting some lessons in that direction.

oh, I can’t forget new vacuum hoses which thank goodness are color coded. Routing the vacuum hoses is no day at the beach. The 63 service manual drawings are ok, but you need a magnifying glass to read the illustration and keep the routing of the hoses on course.i have the illustration of the vacuum hose routing color coded if you need it.

Turbinator

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Turbinator said:

If, the STV sticks my experience was my system was contaminated. Through a series of poor workmanship events by other paid AC techs AND me not knowing what I’m doing I had more STV failures. All told after 3 STV re/builds by paid known national companies I said no more. All the STV failures could have very well been my fault. I’ve paid for my education on mobile AC. Your pic and you sound like you have an understanding of what you are doing. The idea of having the hoses rebuilt is, I believe, a good decision on your part.

i forgot to mention the controls! I had to put a vacuum switch in and all new vacuum actuators. 3&4 vacuum actuators were kaput. I had to settle for a new single new vacuum actuator to replace 3&4. That replacement of the single actuator under the heater box was really hard to reach the nuts and bolts no joke. If you have a 63 Riv there is no new manual water control valve. I replaced my broken manual control valve with a vacuum control water valve. Forgot to mention one of the bell arms was broken and I had to have a new bell arm fabricated and reinstalled in the control panel.

im not a mechanic, but I’m getting some lessons in that direction.

oh, I can’t forget new vacuum hoses which thank goodness are color coded. Routing the vacuum hoses is no day at the beach. The 63 service manual drawings are ok, but you need a magnifying glass to read the illustration and keep the routing of the hoses on course.i have the illustration of the vacuum hose routing color coded if you need it.

Turbinator

I have a 65 and replaced the 2 heater door diaphragms under the hood.  Had the motor out so it was easy.  Also have the vacuum trunk, so I took out the tank and it tested no leaks.  Then anywhere I could I used tiny spring clamps on all the vacuum hoses under hood.  The water valve does work via the dash control.  On the STV valve I did the conversion, but I was super happy with how clean it was inside.  Using nylog on all the o rings as I put it all back together...

Edited by Garysriv (see edit history)

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Gary, you are top shelf. Where are you? I want to drive to your shop/driveway/shade tree and have you charge my 63 Riv AC with the R12. I’ll bring the gas.

im not kidding. I have paid way too much for my education and training on this AC system using local techs.

Do you have a vacuum accumulator on your car?

i heard if you go 134a and you are using old R12 hose you are in danger of the 134a leaking through the hose. Supposedly, the 134a is prone to leak with old hose-what I read, what I heard.

Are your vacuum controls operated by 3 vacuum switches?

im double checking my double check. 

Thanks for the tip on Nylog. I used the mineral oil I put in the compressor to lubricate the O rings.

just another.... are you charging your system with 3.5 lbs plus?

my 63 Service manual reads 2.5 lbs AND MY A6 Original Harrison compressor has 2.5 lbs stamped on the casing. The experts tell me they charged first generation Riv,s with about 4 lbs. I believe them, but the book sez....

thank you

Turbinator

 

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21 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Gary, you are top shelf. Where are you? I want to drive to your shop/driveway/shade tree and have you charge my 63 Riv AC with the R12. I’ll bring the gas.

im not kidding. I have paid way too much for my education and training on this AC system using local techs.

Do you have a vacuum accumulator on your car?

i heard if you go 134a and you are using old R12 hose you are in danger of the 134a leaking through the hose. Supposedly, the 134a is prone to leak with old hose-what I read, what I heard.

Are your vacuum controls operated by 3 vacuum switches?

im double checking my double check. 

Thanks for the tip on Nylog. I used the mineral oil I put in the compressor to lubricate the O rings.

just another.... are you charging your system with 3.5 lbs plus?

my 63 Service manual reads 2.5 lbs AND MY A6 Original Harrison compressor has 2.5 lbs stamped on the casing. The experts tell me they charged first generation Riv,s with about 4 lbs. I believe them, but the book sez....

thank you

Turbinator

 

I'm learning on the fly too.  I depend heavily on the shop manual I have and this forum.  I was planning on putting all back together stock (except the STV modification), then having it flushed, vacuumed, and charged with R12.  I believe the shop manual has a table for outside temp and how much to charge.  As far as vacuum switches, it has whatever a 65 came with, but yes I believe 3.  Can check my shop manual if you like.

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Oh, I’m in the same situation as you are in. Maybe, I’m a little further along as I’m waiting for some 65-70 F consistent days come around to charge.

ive tested for leaks twice and the ac held 24” mercury once for 44 hrs and second 24” mercury for 19hrs. 

I’m not familiar with the 65 that much to know whether it had 3 vacuum switches or what. What I do know is if you don’t have air coming out of middle vent on the 63 the #2 vacuum switch needs to be adjusted via the service manual instructions.

You sound like you have a good grip on what you are doing. Any help I lend based on my 3 season experience trying to get it to work I’m happy to give you what I have experienced. I’m putting in an in line ac filter in my high side. Can’t hurt. COOLTECH ID has the ac filter holder Robinair has the filter.

Thank you

Turbinator

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18 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Oh, I’m in the same situation as you are in. Maybe, I’m a little further along as I’m waiting for some 65-70 F consistent days come around to charge.

ive tested for leaks twice and the ac held 24” mercury once for 44 hrs and second 24” mercury for 19hrs. 

I’m not familiar with the 65 that much to know whether it had 3 vacuum switches or what. What I do know is if you don’t have air coming out of middle vent on the 63 the #2 vacuum switch needs to be adjusted via the service manual instructions.

You sound like you have a good grip on what you are doing. Any help I lend based on my 3 season experience trying to get it to work I’m happy to give you what I have experienced. I’m putting in an in line ac filter in my high side. Can’t hurt. COOLTECH ID has the ac filter holder Robinair has the filter.

Thank you

Turbinator

This is a picture of the 65 vacuum system from the shop manual.  Looks like 2 vacuum switches plus a module to the STV (which is neutralized if you do the STV mod).  I did also replace my vent hoses under dash because they were dry rotted and split, plus they had mouse down in them.  Then I manually manipulated the doors to make sure it all worked.  Now that I've got everything hooked up next time I run the car (driveshaft currently out) I'm going to check the function if everything.  Good luck once you get yours charged, will be 70 here Thursday (Ohio).  Let us know how it goes.

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I’ll keep you apprised of my progress. Will be Kent Ohio early May...I just might drive the Riviera to Kent. I’m in Kent for a wedding of my collector car pal daughter’s big event. 

Turbinator

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Gary, here is the link of the outfit I had rebuild my hoses.

https://www.colliflower.com

I thought the rebuild was a tad bit "high". Ive been retired for 11 years and I don't know how much stuff costs any longer.

All told it was around $450.00 for every hose in the system.

Turbinator

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Hey, Bob - are you going to Gettysburg?  If so, I for one would love to listen to your 'lessons learned' on this subject.  Your A/C rebuild experience (IMHO) would make a terrific tech session at the ROA meet!  -Tim

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TiM, I come from a long line of story tellers. 

It is actually hard for me to believe I did not understand the people that advertised as Mobile AC specialists really did not want to repair AC systems in older cars. It would have been less expensive had I taken the car to a known restoration shop that would do what is necessary for me to have cold air in the cabin. I would drop off the car ask how much deposit and finished with,” Call me when you have cold air.” The cost of having a pro restoration shop could not be any greater than $4k. I’m afraid to count how much I have invested- in all for the AC. I will say the condenser, evaporator, compressor, TXV, STV eliminator, vacuum hoses, vacuum actuators, Freon hose rebuild (all), accumulator drier, current Freon purchase, and bell arm fabrication removal and installation is $3200.

If I added in false starts with AC mechanics and labor the costs become embarrassing.

The majority of the problem was I did not know what I was doing. The AC mechanics did not offer any counsel of how to go about solving my AC problem. The forum can only help so much. I needed to belong to a Buick Club in my area. I now belong to a local Buick Club.

Now, I have all kinds of AC TOOLS, a book or two on mobile AC and some experience. Truth be known I still do not have cold air as I’m waiting for May 70 degree days to charge the system. I am confident I have a solid system ready to provide cold air.

B H Burnopp

1604 Broadway Rd

Lutherville Md 21093-1507

The Freon R12 is $20.00 per 14 oz  can x2 = $40.00 plus $10.00 for S/H Priority Mail. Total $50.00.

The R12 oil is known as mineral oil. I bought a quart at NAPA For $9.00 and they had to order the stuff. I will say you want to keep everything air tight. One gent said he blew out his compressor with compressed air. I was told ( and happy to be wrong) compressors are not blown out with compressed air. The compressed air has moisture. You do not want moisture in your AC system. I went the expense of buying a dry nitrogen bottle and gauges to charge the system and test for leaks. Of course you have to evacuate the dry nitrogen before you close the system. So now I have a vacuum pump. 

Oh, the number one vacuum switch is another $100.

Turbinator

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18 hours ago, EmTee said:

Hey, Bob - are you going to Gettysburg?  If so, I for one would love to listen to your 'lessons learned' on this subject.  Your A/C rebuild experience (IMHO) would make a terrific tech session at the ROA meet!  -Tim

Tim, thank you, I am going to Gettysburg. I’m about an hour leisurely drive through the country from Gettysburg.

im no tech, as I keep saying; however, I am persistent and resilient.

i could give a presentation on “ lessons learned” in

about 15-20

minutes. When a presentation of this nature goes over 15 minutes the speaker may be just talking to himself. I was a corporate sales guy for a 5 billion $ outfit responsible for sales to all of the US Dept of Defense. My presentations had to be short and have impact. If, Ray makes such a request with advance notice I can oblige. Extemporaneous presentations I can handle, but the audience is better off if I’m prepared.

Tim, your package goes out by 5pm today.

Bob

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