MochetVelo Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 The clutch/flywheel assembly is currently at the machine shop for repair. I just discovered the throw-out bearing should have a tapered side to fit in the holder (see photo in previous post). My bearing fits the holder I.D., but it has a standard flat base. Attached is the factory blueprint of this bearing. Any ideas? Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 The machine shop told me that the bearing base cannot be cut with a radius because the shell (outer race?) is not thick enough. He came up with a plan that uses a standard c-clip to retain the outer face of the bearing. I asked if a curved ring could be sandwiched behind the bearing, but there is only about 1/16-inch to spare. Of course, I could get a new bearing made to the original blueprint (above), but that would be expensive. I'll post photos when I get it back tomorrow. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 When you get done, you will have a nice shifting and clutching Overland for sure. You are addressing all the small deficiencies and by doing so the end result will not be a compromise. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) I hope I do, Al! I got the flywheel back from the machine shop. As I said, they made a new bushing (called "flywheel bushing" by Overland). They used a standard C-shaped retaining clip to hold the bearing, but this rubbed the bearing surface. I substituted a spiral retaining ring which has a narrower O.D. My throw-out bearing slides over this ring slightly, as it did before. I think this will work. Phil The new Flywheel bushing is a press fit. The spiral retaining ring in place (plus another to show how it is made). Note that the upper bearing I.D. can slip over the ring. Total movement is about 5/16-3/8 inch. Edited January 22, 2021 by MochetVelo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 I returned the flywheel and clutch assembly to the engine today. I forgot the clutch had to be inserted before the engine is lowered, so had to remove it yet again. However, with all the accessories off, it only takes 5 minutes to lift it out. I believe the only practical way to remove the cone clutch assembly is to pull the engine, so I hope it works. The engine was tight from the rebuilding, but it cranks easier than I'd thought. I found the TDC mark on the flywheel is correct which means I have the flywheel bolt holes aligned correctly! The clutch withdraws smoothly with the pedal now. Next, to reassemble the engine compartment (magneto, manifolds, starter, etc.). I hope I remember where it all goes... Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) The engine accessories still being assembled. I'm replacing the rust-pitted nuts with new blackened ones. I filled the pitted ends of the coolant tubes with JB Weld. Phil Edited January 31, 2021 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Nice work...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raybelf Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Phil What thrust bearing did the tool shop use for the clutch. (brand / part number) I am at this step on my 12 Overland restoration and need to make a decision on how to get this together. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted February 12, 2021 Author Share Posted February 12, 2021 Hi. I used the bearing that was there, which seemed to fit. It wasn't rounded like like factory design. It didn't have a name on it. You best bet is to go to a bearing shop and get the closest one they have. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 After some time, I'm back working on the Overland. I was onto other projects while awaiting a rebuilt "Dixie" magneto. This rebuild took about 18 months. The Dixie-brand magneto, made by Splitdorf, was an interesting design, perhaps to get around Bosch patents. My Overland, like many others, had an adapted Bosch magneto. The problem with the Dixie was the generous use of pot metal castings. The Bosch mags will fit, but require some cutting. Anyway, I sent 2 (what I thought were) good unrestored Dixies to the rebuilder and was told they were both junk. However, he said he might have a good one he could restore for me. It took a whilem, but it finally arrived. The photos show the two mags side-by-side with the front off the Dixie. Also, a photo of the Dixie in my Ovderland. You can see that the Dixie is rather more compact. Note the chunk cut off the left side of the Bosch to get it to fit in the Overland. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted July 4, 2022 Share Posted July 4, 2022 Can you share who did your magneto work? My 1912 Flanders has a Splitdorf Model F low tension magneto that kind of works, but I would like to have it fully refurbished at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted July 4, 2022 Author Share Posted July 4, 2022 Mark's Magneto Service in Colchester, CT did my Dixie mag. I was lucky that he had a magneto with good pot metal to rebuild. As you know, pot metal can deform, crack and even fall apart depending on the alloy. An Overland owner I know went so far as to re-machine from brass a new body for his Dixie magneto. Bosch mags did not have this problem, but the Splitdorfs are nicely designed aside from that! Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted April 15, 2023 Author Share Posted April 15, 2023 (edited) I recently re-commenced my Overland restoration after working on a couple other cars. I replaced the refinished dashboard. Note the electric control box on the steering column which I have yet to re-wire. I also made a custom base for my Optima battery. You can still purchase the original-style "extra width" battery which is used in tractors, but I prefer the gel type. Phil Edited April 15, 2023 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted April 15, 2023 Share Posted April 15, 2023 Get er done. More information is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted August 25, 2023 Author Share Posted August 25, 2023 My restored Auto-Lite generator needs a connection to the crankshaft. It originally used "silent chain," a very strong and slip-proof power drive. The downside: should the generator shaft seize, the robust chain will snap the end right off the shaft. That's exactly what occurred on my car. My English Overland friend David substituted a rubber V belt & pulleys for the drive, which makes sense. Of course, I'm going the original route with the chain. Because the generator will always turn with the engine, it must be connected to the 6 volt battery via the cut-out or it may overheat. Here's what I learned about Silent Chain. It's a positive drive with almost no lost motion. It can be used for camshaft and timing drives. It's ingenious design is composed of numerous stamped steel segments joined by swaged pins. There are many sizes of chain available. I got mine from Ramsey Products in NC. You can send them the dimensions and spacing of your sprocket wheels to get the size needed. I suggest you order a chain a few links longer than you need and cut it down. I made the error of ordering an 82-link chain, as specified in the factory drawings, if I recall correctly. Turned out I needed 84 links. In seeking to order the extra 2 links, I found they have a $104 minimum order. Luckily, I found a longer chain on eBay which I shortened (if anyone needs some, let me know!) The photos below show what to do. Cut the swaged ends off 2 link couplers with a grinding wheel. The pins can then be tapped out with a small screwdriver blade. There are two more shorter connector pins holding all the flat links together which just drop out. You then fasten the chain over the sprocket wheels (I used small clamps) and insert the new connecting pins. The special pin they supply is held in place with a washer and a cotter pin or a small roll pin. Be sure to request extra connect pins from Ramsey with your order, as they supply only one. If you need another pin, it will cost you $104! The chain can be uncoupled by removing this pin. Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 26, 2023 Share Posted August 26, 2023 Hello Phil. Do you know, is the chain you ordered the same as what is used on the Dodge Bros. starter-generator unit? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted August 26, 2023 Author Share Posted August 26, 2023 9 hours ago, alsfarms said: Hello Phil. Do you know, is the chain you ordered the same as what is used on the Dodge Bros. starter-generator unit? Al Not sure what the Dodge Bros. used, Al. You can see the specs for the Overland 83 chain in my photo of the Ramsey box. Ramsey does have good customer service, so I suggest you give them the dimensions of your sprocket wheels (diam. + width + no. of teeth) to see what will fit. I do have extra chain, but no extra connection pins. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted August 27, 2023 Share Posted August 27, 2023 I will get in touch with that firm and see what they can tell me about Dodge Bros. applications. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now