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The clutch/flywheel assembly is currently at the machine shop for repair. I just discovered the throw-out bearing should have a tapered side to fit in the holder (see photo in previous post). My bearing fits the holder I.D., but it has a standard flat base. Attached is the factory blueprint of this bearing. Any ideas?

 

 

Phil

 

 

2540 - 19140117.jpg

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The machine shop told me that the bearing base cannot be cut with a radius because the shell (outer race?) is not thick enough. He came up with a plan that uses a standard c-clip to retain the outer face of the bearing. I asked if a curved ring could be sandwiched behind the bearing, but there is only about 1/16-inch to spare. Of course, I could get a new bearing made to the original blueprint (above), but that would be expensive. 

 

I'll post photos when I get it back tomorrow.

 

Phil 

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When you get done, you will have a nice shifting and clutching Overland for sure.  You are addressing all the small deficiencies and by doing so the end result will not be a compromise.

Al

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I hope I do, Al!

 

I got the flywheel back from the machine shop. As I said, they made a new bushing (called "flywheel bushing" by Overland). They used a standard C-shaped retaining clip to hold the bearing, but this rubbed the bearing surface. I substituted a spiral retaining ring which has a narrower O.D. My throw-out bearing slides over this ring slightly, as it did before. I think this will work.

 

Phil

 

The new Flywheel bushing is a press fit.

 

IMG_3032.JPG.f1a8d886ff55793344e9477f72118384.JPG

 

The spiral retaining ring in place (plus another to show how it is made). Note that the upper bearing I.D. can slip over the ring. Total movement is about 5/16-3/8 inch.

IMG_3036.JPG

IMG_3034.JPG

Edited by MochetVelo (see edit history)
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I returned the flywheel and clutch assembly to the engine today. I forgot the clutch had to be inserted before the engine is lowered, so had to remove it yet again. However, with all the accessories off, it only takes 5 minutes to lift it out. I believe the only practical way to remove the cone clutch assembly is to pull the engine, so I hope it works. The engine was tight from the rebuilding, but it cranks easier than I'd thought. I found the TDC mark on the flywheel is correct which means I have the flywheel bolt holes aligned correctly! The clutch withdraws smoothly with the pedal now.  Next, to reassemble the engine compartment (magneto, manifolds, starter, etc.). I hope I remember where it all goes...

 

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...

Phil

What thrust bearing did the tool shop use for the clutch. (brand / part number) I am at this step on my 12 Overland restoration and need to make a decision on how to get this together. 

 

Ray 

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Hi. I used the bearing that was there, which seemed to fit. It wasn't rounded like like factory design. It didn't have a name on it. You best bet is to go to a bearing shop and get the closest one they have.

 

Phil

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