Luv2Wrench Posted August 16, 2019 Share Posted August 16, 2019 Either Fred is a small man or that's a big engine. Glad you took the camera to the shop, great to see some shots of it going together. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted August 18, 2019 Author Share Posted August 18, 2019 Some paint removal today on the body. I used chemical stripper, and the finish came off in about 2 coats. The metal looks good with no body filler (unlike the fenders). 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted August 25, 2019 Author Share Posted August 25, 2019 A visit to the engine shop yesterday showed the motor nearly assembled and the valves timed. He cleaned the oil pan in a heated tank especially for aluminum, and then put it atop a propane heater that caused the oil trapped in the crevices to bubble out. Finally, a treatment of lacquer thinner and a coat of Glyptal to seal it. Experience told the rebuilder that this prevents sludge from sticking to the poor-quality casting. Word is that it may be ready next week. Meanwhile, Bob Knaak is restoring my leather clutch with some improvements. I'll report more on that when it returns. Phil 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 The Glyptol is fine for coating aluminum (especially if it stands a chance of being porous) - I see it on vintage race engines all the time, especially high end engines (the 500K to million dollar car variety stuff) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted August 29, 2019 Author Share Posted August 29, 2019 (edited) Picked up the engine today. It looks about 98 years newer. Of course, the car is not ready for it yet! You can see the oil fill/breather and the magneto connection on this side. Note also the new ring gear. You can also see the oil level gauge. Phil Edited August 30, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 On 8/16/2019 at 2:53 AM, Luv2Wrench said: Either Fred is a small man or that's a big engine. Jeff, I think you are correct in your assumption that Fred is a small man, seeing him, yet again, in another photo with the engine! Judging by the size of the ring gear he must be about 4-foot tall! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted August 30, 2019 Author Share Posted August 30, 2019 Yes, the flywheel is rather large and Fred isn't. He is well over 4-feet, however! Phil 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Phil the engine looks great, I'm sure you'll have the car ready for it soon. Maybe a video when you fire it for the first time?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted September 6, 2019 Author Share Posted September 6, 2019 (edited) The re-lined cone clutch arrived today, courtesy of Bob Knaak. The assembly looks like new. Bob added a lock-nut adjustment to the spring plungers. You can see the nuts on the inner rim. They are adjustable once the clutch is assembled in the car. Edited September 6, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted September 28, 2019 Author Share Posted September 28, 2019 (edited) I'm working on the body, doing the painting while the weather still permits. Today, I sprayed the fenders black after numerous priming coats. I also applied primer to the stripped body. As can be seen, I have little room in my shop for this job, and I'm unable to spray. Therefore, I decided to try to apply the finish with roller and brush using boat paint. This sounds hoakey, but there are some high-quality paints designed for hand application on yachts. I'm using "Alexseal", a German paint system. Will it work? Stay tuned! Today, I applied 2 coats of primer using a 4-inch roller. The primer is an epoxy or urethane (not sure which) that mixes 1:1 with a catalyst + about 15% solvent (all rather pricey). Anyway, I will let the primer set overnight and then sand it with 400 paper. The prep involved paint stripper, cleaning, application of Ospho (phosphoric acid) to neutralize rust, sand again, and tack. Incidentally, I began by using a foam roller (see photo), but switched to mohair after the foam started to fall apart! It didn't seem to do any harm, but the solvents in this stuff are powerful. Phil Edited September 28, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 (edited) I'm very curious to see how this comes out. A lot of people seem to forget - or maybe not know - that spray painting wasn't invented until about the 1920s. All brass cars were painted with a brush originally. The only real problem is that the paints aren't readily available any more although they sell "coach paint" in the UK and it's still done there. I don't have a place where I could spray paint either which is why I'm curious about your materials and the result. Edited September 29, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted September 28, 2019 Share Posted September 28, 2019 PPG used to (and may still) have a line of roll-on primers. They were really only intended for spot repairs so you could use them in an open shop without creating overspray or having to tie up a booth for something minor. 23 minutes ago, MochetVelo said: The primer is an epoxy or urethane (not sure which) You really ought to find out because with automotive primers, urethanes are not supposed to be applied direct to bare metal without first using an etching primer or otherwise prepping the surface. Epoxy can be applied over properly prepared bare metal. 19 minutes ago, JV Puleo said: The only real problem is that the paints aren't readily available any more although they sell "coach paint" in the UK and it's still done there. I've tried to buy that stuff from the UK before and won't ship to the US. I'm curious about what it actually is. The words "enamel" and "varnish' and such are used so generically that whatever they're selling may be things that are still commonly available here. Try buying "Spar Varnish" in just about any store you can walk into today and virtually all of it is urethane. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 The Alexseal 442 primer is designed to be applied to bare metal. I think it is an epoxy formula. Their finish colors are rather nice, I suppose because they are marketed for expensive yachts. I'm using their "dark green" which looks like Brewster Green, in my opinion. The finish coats are applied with a roller, then "tipped" with a good brush to remove the roller texture. After it sets, it can be wet sanded and buffed, if desired. Of course, I may be an optimist! If it works, I'll give more detailed information. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 I am usually in the UK in February so I was thinking of buying some and shipping it to myself. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted September 29, 2019 Author Share Posted September 29, 2019 I purchased the Alexseal finishes from Hamilton Marine. It's a rather complex system. There are separate primers and topcoats for spray and brush applications. For the gray primer (ALS-P4423Q), you need also the catalyst (ALS-C4427Q) and the solvent (ALS-R5015Q). For the topcoat (Premium Topcoat 501), there is a different catalyst, but the same reducer. Alexseal also sells high-build primers plus a few types of epoxy-based fillers. Alexseal also has an online manual which is not as clearly-written as it could be. You may be able to purchase these in the U.K., as they are made in Germany. For a simpler but nice-looking finish, I suggest Epifanes Yacht Enamel. These do not need a catalyst, but they provide a very smooth (though not quite as hard) finish. Check Jamestown Distributors for a long list of similar finishes and supplies. Good luck! Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 Go for it !!! I know of a high point Lagonda long wheelbase touring that has brush painted wire wheels on it and they look pretty great - you really do not notice unless you look really hard. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted September 29, 2019 Share Posted September 29, 2019 3 hours ago, MochetVelo said: There are separate primers and topcoats for spray and brush applications. The reason for this is sprayed finishes have calculated into the final equation the necessary solvents for "dispersion". In order to get the paint or primer to leave the gun and land properly on the panel the formulation is different from brushed-on finishes knowing that certain elements will be lost as it travels through the air. This is why people can seldom obtain satisfactory results when trying to apply by brush automotive finishes that are designed to be sprayed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 (edited) Well, I cheated a bit today. I moved my 1921 Peugeot which sat about 10 inches from the Overland. Seems I was asked to display it at the Simeone Museum in Philadelphia later this month, and this has opened up a bit more space around the Overland. Today, I brought over my HVLP sprayer and applied two coats of Eastwood primer/surfacer atop my epoxy boat primer. I like the way this primer/surfacer sands. I used it on the fenders, and I can user 220/320/400 grit papers and then apply the finish coat. The HVLP system (using a bleeder-type gun) has very little over-spray and is quite low-tech (ie; no compressor, regulator, water filter, etc.). Phi Edited October 5, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 I applied the finish coats to the Overland last weekend. I got a new HVLP spray gun from Eastwood so I could use my air compressor. This applied the paint much smoother than my old bleeder HVLP gun. I wanted a Brewster Green, as stated in the Overland specs. I actually think Overland used a lighter green than I associate with the Brewster color, but I went with the darker green. At my local FinishMaster, I showed the guy some samples I got from auto touch-up sprays. He matched the color exactly, first mixing a small can to show me. "Looks like British Racing Green to me," he said. Come to think of it, what's the difference? I got a single-stage Nason urethane, a paint made by Dupont. Of course, it needs its own activator and solvents, making a gallon cost around $280 with everything needed. As I say, the paint applied very smoothly and I'm happy with the result. I think I can buff it after wet sanding with 1500 and finer. The side panels I sprayed with Eastwood's Boulevard Black, a paint I like also (plus it's a lot cheaper than the Nason). Phil 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 (edited) I removed the steel dashboard and stripped the layers of goopy paint. A previous owner crudely added a temp. gauge, so I cut a slug and tack welded it in place. using some magnets to hold it in position. The first photo shows the repair before priming. Hopefully, it will look more original soon. Phil Edited November 25, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted December 7, 2019 Author Share Posted December 7, 2019 (edited) I just got back my new running boards, the old ones being in pretty rusted condition. These were made by a local sheet metal shop, Holly Metals. Phil Edited December 7, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted December 24, 2019 Author Share Posted December 24, 2019 (edited) I took apart the Overland oil "tell-tale" dash gauge today. Engine oil is pumped through, spinning the little wheel. The gauge was sealed with a generous glop of silicone. I'm wondering how it was originally sealed. It needs two gaskets: the first to keep oil from running out the threads, and one to keep it from leaking out under the glass bezel. In the photo, L-R, is the brass gauge and spinner, the brass spacer that fits under the bezel, the bezel itself (with a leather gasket ring?) and, finally, the 2 paper gaskets. Phil Edited December 24, 2019 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 I am thinking they used a lot of that red Indian Head gasket shellac sealer. The Franklin used key graphite Paste on stuff - basically Steam Fitters paste. Thankfully, there is a Permatex product for just about everything imaginable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno from Belgium Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 (edited) Nice, This is my 1915/16 Overland Five-Passenger Touring Car. Click on the link in the above line Have a nice day, Bruno from Belgium brunofrombelgium@telenet.be Edited December 18, 2022 by Bruno from Belgium (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) Thanks, Bruno! Your car looks beautiful. Still working on mine; sidetracked on my '24 Citroen, but that's another story! Today, I wet sanded and buffed the Overland radiator shell. I hadn't even noticed it, but the radiator cap was missing. Only the inner brass casting was in place. It was originally encased in hard rubber. I'd like to make a mold to reproduce this part. In the original blueprint, it's the part with the bold lines. Maybe with 3-D printing? Phil Edited February 16, 2020 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Mochet Velo, Try Then-and-now for re-doing the rubber. They have made several rubber parts for my restore that I could not find. http://www.then-now-auto.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) Then-&-Now does sell vulcanized rubber products, but the Overland radiator car is a unique part. It's not actually a "cap," nut really a "bolt" in that it tightens down the actual cap. Here is a photo. The rubber is cast over the star-shaped brass knob. Perhaps I could make a mold from another cap. Phil Edited February 16, 2020 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 You could email them a picture of the brass knob and a copy of the print. They should be able to do the rubber over the brass part just like the drawing. Wouldn't hurt to ask. They did my transmission mount. I sent them the old one and they made a new one and using the original metal bracket. They make the molds in house and do the rubber work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 There was an article in the HCCA Gazette some time ago (maybe 2 or 3 years?) that showed a technique for casting Locomobile hard rubber radiator caps. It was probably the most useful article I've seen there. I am guessing that you could do that here although it would be a bit of work, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted February 19, 2020 Author Share Posted February 19, 2020 My plan is to make a wood pattern and then mold black urethane onto the brass part. I used the blueprint to get an accurate outline of the cap for my pattern. It's actually quite small: 2-1/8" diameter. Pictures to follow. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 (edited) I have been playing with 3/M black auto body panel adhesive - used to basically weld together sheet metal - pretty impressive stuff and also sands and polishes nicely. I was at my restorer's shop one day and they were fixing rust pits with it - I asked and then they showed me a bunch of other projects they had used it on via a Citroen, MGA, and ... - so i became a believer and .... - I love for black 30's steering wheel repairs. Edited February 21, 2020 by John_Mereness (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted February 29, 2020 Author Share Posted February 29, 2020 (edited) Here is my radiator cap project. It didn't come out perfect, but I think it's usable. I used "Smooth-Cast Onyx" casting plastic. It's jet black urethane, and quite hard. I was unable to brake a test casting with a hammer. It set up in only few minutes, which might be good or bad. There were some bubbles in the casting and molds, but it takes body filler well, and can be painted. A vacuum set-up could have eliminated the bubbles, but that was more than I wanted to tackle. The photos, in no particular order: Here is the finished wood pattern after painting. Molding the part using drill press. The pattern (correctly sized) is glued onto the wood I turned on the lathe. A carving chisel fit the pattern nicely. The casting ready to be smoothed and polished. Edited February 29, 2020 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) I've begun work on the windshield. The safety glass was installed with silicone, and required a lot of putty knife persuasion to remove. Fortunately, the glass was in poor shape anyway, so a few more cracks didn't hurt! The frames themselves are pretty rusted, but I think restorable. The adjustable top windshield frame mechanism is quite interesting. Phil Edited March 25, 2020 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Great job on the radiator cap, looks like a straightforward process assuming you have the skills to create the pattern. Thanks for the step by step pictures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 Looking to re-attach the wheels so I can push the car about, I'm not trying to restore the bearings and seals. The front bearing seals were a couple worn-out O-rings on turned steel plates. I'm sure they were originally felt or leather seals, so I cut some leather pieces and turned them to size on the lathe using my rotary sander. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted March 31, 2020 Author Share Posted March 31, 2020 (edited) The rear wheel bearing seals are a bit more complex. They seal the roller bearing oil from the brake drum. These were felt, according to the owner's manual, and they were replaced at some point with neoprene washers which had disintegrated, causing the brakes to get soaked with oil. Not only that, the seal holders have been mutilated in some sort of attempt at repair (?). The steel base is useable, but I must figure out how to straighten and/or remake the riveted cover pieces. I plan to use a modern lip seal here. Phil The brake drums have a good coat of bearing oil. In the center, the six machine screws hold on the seal. The seal holder with it's many bends and repairs: The top piece is really bent up. I'd like to replace it. Edited March 31, 2020 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 (edited) My solution to the rear wheel bearing seals. I turned some holders for the new oil seals (CR 21059) using some 3.5" pipe from eBay. I riveted these onto the original base plates. I think it will work... Phil Edited April 5, 2020 by MochetVelo (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 Phil, I followed you link from HCCA. You are doing a nice job. I may have a few questions regarding your casting project. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MochetVelo Posted April 11, 2020 Author Share Posted April 11, 2020 You're welcome to ask any questions. If I can't answer, someone else might! Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 Hello Phil, What is the temp rating of the panel adhesive that you used for the radiator cap nut project? Is that end result the raw adhesive or has it been painted? Is it very UV resistant? I have a couple of projects that I would like to make at home, similar to your cap lock nut. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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