MarkV

1948 Lincoln Starter Replacement and Click Noise

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Hello everyone so I had the starter replaced in my 48 Lincoln. The one from Mack’s that is 12 volt with the bendix drive would not fit. The shop I took it to tried to see if it would fit and removed the flex plate on the trans. It would not fit, so I had to get the original starter redone which took about a week. Anyway I took the car for a drive today and felt and heard a slight clicking sound when depressing the clutch the trans was rebuilt 5 years ago. Would this have something to do with them moving the flex plate? Maybe it needs adjustment? 

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This was the photo they sent me when they were trying to figure out why the new starter wouldn’t fit. 

A7579308-EDE1-4C47-B34C-E54EA8758D86.jpeg

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Could be a bolt not tightened properly that is hitting something. If that is it you need to see to it before it gets worse and causes some real damage.

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Posted (edited)

Mark,

 

I like your posts, I, glad I was able to help on the Seville

 

From your picture, you have the inspection plate removed , not the flex plate; 2 different things

 

1. Did they actually remove the transmission, then the flex plate or flywheel?   This is important  to know this

 

2, Started bendix must be matched to the ring gear on the flywheel or flexplate

 

Just to be sure we are on the same page, Do you have a standard transmission or automatic?

Edited by intimeold (see edit history)

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2 hours ago, intimeold said:

Mark,

 

I like your posts, I, glad I was able to help on the Seville

 

From your picture, you have the inspection plate removed , not the flex plate; 2 different things

 

1. Did they actually remove the transmission, then the flex plate or flywheel?   This is important  to know this

 

2, Started bendix must be matched to the ring gear on the flywheel or flexplate

 

Just to be sure we are on the same page, Do you have a standard transmission or automatic?

 

1. Yes it was the inspection plate my mistake 

 

2. Standard 

 

3 they replaced the starter with the original after a rebuild the one that is sold the drive is too big so they were seeing if it would fit by removing the inspection plate

 

4 what’s odd is it’s only happening when the clutch is depressed

 

5 they told me to bring it Saturday 

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Mark,

 

Ok, Thanks for the update

 

"Only when the clutch depressed"  I saw this only once in my experiences,   It was on a Plymouth Roadrunner ; and the clutch was replaced  The replacement pressure plate, was somehow,  made thicker or higher, or whatever.  But when the replacement pressure plate was removed and a Chrysler part number pressure plate installed, the noise at fully depressed pedal went away.

 

I am NOT saying that is your problem.

 

But if the starter Bendix is somehow over size, It might somehow touch the pressure plate,flywheel.   I don't know.  But I would be matching "metal contact" marks up.

 

If you had your original starter rebuild: Extra shimming or alignment should not be the problem.  Assuming the bolts are tight. 

 

Again, match the metal to metal contact marks up! If there is a noise, there are marks on something. And then go ahead from there. 

 

intimeold

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It could be an unrelated problem, such as the throw out bearing starting to go bad.  It only spins when the clutch pedal is depressed.

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I forgot to mention it only happens when I am driving and not in idle so maybe it’s something loose that is just reverberating throughout the pedals? 

 

Unreleated but what trans fluid fluid do I use in the car?

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So I took it for a drive it sounds more like a rattle rubbing against the clutch pedal and I hear it very slightly without the clutch in and it seems to change if I go over bumps It sounds like it’s coming from the center or drivers side. When going uphill I don’t hear it at all. What could be loose? 

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Maybe the exhaust touching the chassis?

Maybe weak motor mount?

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Posted (edited)

Problem solved! So it looks like the overdrive cable was halfway out,  so not in overdrive and not in regular, pushed it in and voila no noise! No grinding smooth as glass. will have to get a new cable as it is now stuck pushed in and cannot be moved. Anyone know where I can find one?

C29ADFFD-759B-4383-97CF-C2B5831E5A9E.jpeg

Edited by MarkV (see edit history)
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The last overdrive I worked on needed a cable, I don't know if one can change out the knobs but here is what I found.

The aftermarket Ford cables have the word "overdrive" stamped (for the lack of a better word) into a T-shaped handle.

The bonus is that the cable is indexed to the housing so the T-handle is always facing correctly.

All this cable does is throw a lever on the transmission so a simple choke cable would probably work.

I am glad that this turned out to be something as simple as is was.

My DD pick up has a similar cable under the seat that disconnects the drive line so that it can be a towed vehicle.

Some kid at the oil change place must have been messing with it and couldn't get it back in. These guys thought they must have crashed my transmission.

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19 hours ago, MarkV said:

Problem solved! So it looks like the overdrive cable was halfway out,  so not in overdrive and not in regular, pushed it in and voila no noise! No grinding smooth as glass. will have to get a new cable as it is now stuck pushed in and cannot be moved. Anyone know where I can find one?

C29ADFFD-759B-4383-97CF-C2B5831E5A9E.jpeg

 

I would suggest you try soaking the cable in a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I used that to free up similar cables that had been sitting for a couple of decades on a 1938 Buick. 

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For what its worth, I've soaked a few cables and it was a temporary fix at best if at all.

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22 hours ago, JACK M said:

For what its worth, I've soaked a few cables and it was a temporary fix at best if at all.

For like a week.  Also, there are some interesting threads here regarding the product Evaporust and perhaps such could be further investigated. 

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