Billy Siekert Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 (edited) **NEW LOWER PRICE** Now $10,000 FIRM down from $15,000. For Sale, 99% original 1936 Studebaker Dictator 4-door sedan, original straight-6 runs great, but needs new rings. Drives great, 3 speed manual, From what i've learned, the paint is not original. Someone clear-coated it and now that is fading. But the paint matches the firewall/ door jams/ dashboard, so its possible? Original fabric and wood on/in the bench seats, new door and headliner fabric in great shape, new carpet, new stainless steel gas tank, has pretty much everything (working original keys, original locking gas cap, tire iron, jack and spare tire, ect.) A few minor dents but absolutely no rust, body is in great shape! The only things i cannot find are replacement windshield wiper arms and blades, but I restored the original vacuum wiper motor so it works perfectly. My cell phone # is (775)722-1032. Give me a call or text if interested! Thanks, Billy S. Edited February 28, 2019 by Billy Siekert Did not do the pictures correcty (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudsy Wudsy Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Absolutely wonderful Art Deco style dashboard. Looks like a great car for the money. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Siekert Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 I agree, i love this dash. Every gauge works, exept the speedometer, but its because i need a new speedo cable i believe. but the dash looks amazing lit up at night. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Agreed, great dash! This looks like a lot of car for a very fair price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Siekert Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Anyone know what the best place to get replacement OEM or reproduction piston rings is for the 1936 Studebaker 6-cyl? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Rings are readily available through most of the major manufacturers. You'd be jumping the gun ordering rings until you know the condition of the ring lands on the pistons. They, undoubtedly, are tapered and need to be machined straight which requires wider rings than original. Slapping rings in worn, tapered, grooves is useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wetherbee Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 I agree with the previous post, but at the price, having it bored and doing new pistons and rings you can have a good reliable car in the end and not be way in over the resale value IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suchan Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 My aunt had the same model/body style '36 Studebaker. Great-looking car, one of the nicest dash designs at any price, and you gotta love that gearshift. More a wand than a lever. Definitely a repaint, although a previous owner may have tried to match the original. Black fenders with a contrasting body color had seen its day by 1936. Buyers are leery about a car belching blue smoke, though. With the ring job, if that's all it needs, OP should be able to get the firm price. They are handsome cars, but not highly desirable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Siekert Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Well the more ive tore into this engine, the more it looks like everything is fine exept the rings and the oil pan itself. The pistons still look great, ive cleaned all the carbon off everything, and had the head resurfaced. Im not sure what tapered means in respect to the rings, but the pistons themselves measure the same top to bottom with a micrometer. I have a friend who owns a machine shop here in Reno, A+ Machine, they do great work, let me borrow a ball hone to re-score the cylinders, as i am doing all this without taking the engine out of the car, so its a little trickier but it is coming along great. I cleaned and repainted the oil pan, at some point before we owned it, SOMEONE hit a huge rock or something and tore a hole in the oil pan, then had it braized but did not put a new oil pan gasket lol. Just some goop, and who knows when that was, so no wonder it was leaking oil so much. but the main problem has been the blowby. So ive got an entire engine gasket kit on the way, and now all i need are new rings, throw her back together and fire it up. Cant wait. Might have to raise the price though, as i had her at $15,000 before i noticed the problems with the paint and engine, so i think i will raise it to 12,500. There is really nothing i can do about the paint, i could wet-sand and re-clear coat but thats just a band-aid, there are other paint issues so anyone that buys it will probably get it repainted anyway. But if all works out, it will have a brand new(ish) 1936 6 cylinder! i may just replace any gaskets i can get to without taking the front end off, if not they will just go with the car if i ever sell it. Right now i am looking at a company called Egge, any other suggestions would be helpful. The problem is, the more i fix on this car, the more i love it and dont want to sell lol. But i have a 1936 Buick street rod, and my dad's 1940 Ford street rod to get back on the road, so it has to go Thanks everyone for the feedback and information! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wetherbee Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 When they talk about taper or belling it refers to the block cylinder wall not the pistons. The linear to rotary action creates an unusual wear pattern, the top and bottom of the bore could be perfectly round and the exact diameter but the length in between can bell to a much larger diameter in an oval pattern because of the forces created by the angle to the rod as it moves. I rebuilt a Model A engine from the standard bore a few years ago and the machine shop had to remove .060 to get all the cylinders clean. You should borrow a bore gauge from your friend before reassembly just in case that blow by isn’t just rings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Siekert Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Ooooooh k Mark, thanks. It never occurred to me to check that on the block. Good call, the guys at the shop didnt even think of checking that. I already ball honed the cylinders so i should get an accurate measurement now that everything is perfectly clean. I will try to borrow that, but honestly there isnt much i can do about it. I suppose once i get this motor back together with the new rings and drive for a while, and if there is still some blow-by, i will drive it to the shop and pull the engine so it can be properly done, but if the new rings work ill be happy keeping that engine in the car lol. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulrhd29nz Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Measure bore top and bottom 90deg from crank. The wear will be side to side not for and aft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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