RockinRiviDad Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 On 2/26/2019 at 10:34 PM, 65VerdeGS said: Hey Dave - so is the red GS you posted a pic of now for sale? Is it advertised elsewhere on this site? Just curious... My dark green GS might like a stable mate... Or she might get insanely jealous (the car, not my wife!) 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 On 3/1/2019 at 8:42 PM, telriv said: AHH, the famous Riviera rattle. Well, I put the rear up on stands today and it seems the noise is coming from the center support area of the driveshaft. I got a good grip on the rear shaft and shook it back and forth and there's a lot of play. So, if I unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion flange, and then undo the 2 bolts holding the center support this whole thing will slide out? Drip pan for the trans I'm guessing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 3 hours ago, Garysriv said: Well, I put the rear up on stands today and it seems the noise is coming from the center support area of the driveshaft. I got a good grip on the rear shaft and shook it back and forth and there's a lot of play. So, if I unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion flange, and then undo the 2 bolts holding the center support this whole thing will slide out? Drip pan for the trans I'm guessing.... I've been reading on how to replace the center bearing and it sounds like YES to all your questions. Please let us know how this repair goes. I'm not looking forward to it. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 3 hours ago, first64riv said: I've been reading on how to replace the center bearing and it sounds like YES to all your questions. Please let us know how this repair goes. I'm not looking forward to it. Chris Ordered the support and bearing from CARS today. Pinion flange bolts are rusted on pretty good, so I hit them with WD40, will try to pull it out tomorrow. Maybe u joints and trans rear seal at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Unless WD-40 has changed over the years, it's not a really good rust penetrant. W - water D - displacement 40 - success on the fortieth try. It's great for spraying on things that you want to get moisture out of. Here's the latest that I've found on penetrating oils. TOP 5 Best Penetrating Oil Product Name Quality Price Our Rating 1. Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil A+ $ 2. Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil A $ 3. SiliKroil Penetrating Solvent B $ 4. 3-IN-ONE 10038 Multi-Purpose A- $ 5. Liquid Wrench L106 Penetrating Oil B $ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 17 hours ago, RivNut said: Unless WD-40 has changed over the years, it's not a really good rust penetrant. W - water D - displacement 40 - success on the fortieth try. It's great for spraying on things that you want to get moisture out of. Here's the latest that I've found on penetrating oils. TOP 5 Best Penetrating Oil Product Name Quality Price Our Rating 1. Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil A+ $ 2. Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil A $ 3. SiliKroil Penetrating Solvent B $ 4. 3-IN-ONE 10038 Multi-Purpose A- $ 5. Liquid Wrench L106 Penetrating Oil B $ I use the rust penetrator made by WD-40. I used it recently on our Range Rover to get off an O2 sensor. Worked like a charm after about 30 minutes, sprayed in 10 minute intervals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) I've always used PB Blaster. Only in the past couple of days have I even heard of Kroil. I didn't realize that WD-40 made anything differently than the original. Gotta get out more. A couple of years ago, a friend of mine sent this rust removal video to me. I've never tried it. www.liveleak.com/view?i=ba2_1475277076 Edit: You'll have to copy and paste the link. Sorry Edited March 5, 2019 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsgun Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 I've had good luck with Gibbs. Good penetration, and stops rust too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Gee, I wonder why the driveline noise? Going to replace the bearing, rubber mount, and three of the 5 u joints (cv arrangement seems ok). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 If you could, get a rough measurement of the center center hole locations on the center support. I believe it's 1.5 on 64 riviera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 51 minutes ago, first64riv said: If you could, get a rough measurement of the center center hole locations on the center support. I believe it's 1.5 on 64 riviera. I'll check it. Reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyntre Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Yeah that’s seen better days !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 3 hours ago, Garysriv said: I'll check it. Reason? Because I've heard there are two different dimensions for the first gens. I've seen the prices range from 60 to 160 dollars. I just want to make sure I get the right one at the best price. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Go by the year and you'll be fine. https://classicbuicks.com/shop/chassis-parts/driveshaft-parts/a-b-driveshaft-center-support-mount/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 19 hours ago, first64riv said: Because I've heard there are two different dimensions for the first gens. I've seen the prices range from 60 to 160 dollars. I just want to make sure I get the right one at the best price. Thank you. My car is an early '65 and its 1.5". I got my new bearing and support from CARS, pretty good deal. Today I got the bearing in the support and changed one u joint. The u-joint was a pain and it was the easy one. I ordered buick shop tool J-9522-3 to do the others. Should be much easier. When the time comes ill lend it to you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Front half is done, back half ready for u joint removal. Found a place that will balance it all for $70. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 DON'T let them tell you its out of phase. They are supposed to be 67 1/2* out of phase from the factory. When you replace u-joints use the solid H/Duty ones. They are MUCH stronger. That's one of the reasons they were used from the factory. Tom T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 8 hours ago, Garysriv said: Front half is done, back half ready for u joint removal. Found a place that will balance it all for $70. Is balancing mandatory for this job? It's not a simple remove replace deal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Not mandatory. I took a shortcut & didn’t get mine done. Now I have a mysterious vibration at 65 mph…wanna guess where it might be coming from 🤷🏻♂️ $70 sounds like a good deal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Balancing will not hurt.. But you need to be aware the drive shaft is out of phase for a reason.. If you look at the splines where the shaft was separated you will see one spline in the yoke is missing & a corresponding spline has a pin in it. Make sure you make them absolutely point this out when taking it in for a balance job or else you will have a problem with vibration. I don't know in fact how many shafts I've had to do because some EXPERT drive line shop sold the wrong u-joints, yokes & CV joints that were not needed & VERY seldom did I have a problem unless some expert messed with it previously. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Will point it out for sure. I did notice the splines and pin as this is where it mates to the gap in the front shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 CORRECT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Just reposting this from another source:Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break outtorque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, asforwarded professional machinist, Bud Baker*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants withthe control being the torque required to remove the nut from a"scientifically rusted" environment.*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*None ..................... 516 poundsWD-40 .................. 238 poundsPB Blaster ............. 214 poundsLiquid Wrench ..... 127 poundsKano Kroil ............ 106 poundsATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatictransmission fluid and acetone.**NOTE: the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this oneparticular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we allnow use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" isabout as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. * 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyntre Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 I love how these threads go off on a tangent that are way off subject ,,, but I will add to the mayhem ,, anybody ever use one of these ???? https://boltbusterinc.com/kit/ its a lot more expensive than a can of PB (DUH) but it does the trick !!! Induction heating .... what will they think of next 👍👍😁😁😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 2 hours ago, pyntre said: I love how these threads go off on a tangent that are way off subject The original poster first commented on having some rusted bolts he couldn't get loose and what he was using to loosen them. In response to that, these posts are still basically on on track to what the original poster started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyntre Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Well I am using the English language, like the original post — guess I am on track too then 😂😂😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyntre Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 And instead of being a hall monitor Ed , comment on what I posted ::: geez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 6 hours ago, pyntre said: I love how these threads go off on a tangent that are way off subject ,,, but I will add to the mayhem ,, anybody ever use one of these ???? https://boltbusterinc.com/kit/ its a lot more expensive than a can of PB (DUH) but it does the trick !!! Induction heating .... what will they think of next 👍👍😁😁😁 Checked it out - looks interesting but not for $650 ! Think I will go with ATF / acetone . Or my cut off wheel 😀.Bolts and nuts are cheap KReed ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Works nice in close quarters when you cant use a torch... like around plastic, wiring or anything highly flammable. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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