28-27-buick Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Hello the heater control valve on my 64 is leaking around the shaft . Is there a fix for this ? I have not been able to find a replacement. Is there a alternate valve that will work? Herb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loren@65GS.com Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Not mine . There is an NOS one on eBay. Loren https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1964-Buick-Riviera-Nos-Heater-Control-Valve/233133676238?hash=item3647d996ce:g:kpwAAOSwDXFcXJiH:rk:1:pf:0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 '63 & '64 are different. The one posted is a '64. For $250.00 it will be around for awhile. They all say they aren't rebuild-able, but I have done a few, but the cost is MORE than $250.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Just for grins, take a piece of cotton string and soak it in a cup of highly concentrated salt and water. Then wrap the string around the shaft close to the housing and tight. Leave it sit for a day, might save the valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I picked this valve up at a flea market or Ebay a while back. It is for a1970ish Jeep. They appear to be fairly common and go for around $30. I think the action of the arm has to be reversed but don't remember the specific differences. I thought it would probably be configured as a good replacement for my '64. If I remember right, just flipping the arm would do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I found this while perusing pictures of water control valves. It's pictured as part of O'Reilly's catalog. There's no mounting provisions but it looks like it would work on a '63 (if the cable pushes to open) Is it shown closed now? Representative Image Murray Climate Control Heater Valve Part # 74764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 (edited) On 2/18/2019 at 3:43 PM, RivNut said: I found this while perusing pictures of water control valves. It's pictured as part of O'Reilly's catalog. There's no mounting provisions but it looks like it would work on a '63 (if the cable pushes to open) Is it shown closed now? Representative Image Murray Climate Control Heater Valve Part # 74764 This is the same valve that I use in my 64. I have not mounted it yet. I am likely going to make a model of a mount in Solid works and 3D print it. Hmmm...maybe that'll be my next printer project. Chris Edited February 22, 2019 by first64riv (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 How did the salty string work out? Also, dipped in oil, that will help leaky lever shocks. I learned that string trick for sealing leaks years ago from pipefitters doing home run fire sprinkler systems. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 On 2/18/2019 at 3:43 PM, RivNut said: I found this while perusing pictures of water control valves. It's pictured as part of O'Reilly's catalog. There's no mounting provisions but it looks like it would work on a '63 (if the cable pushes to open) Is it shown closed now? Don't know how it's built inside, but it looks like there's a chance that you could bend down the stop. rotate the valve so the pin is on the other side, and flip the clamp, thereby converting it between pull-to-open and pull-to-close. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Let Sir Henry look that valve over. Be assured, you will get your linkage in a most novel manner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 1 hour ago, KongaMan said: Don't know how it's built inside, but it looks like there's a chance that you could bend down the stop. rotate the valve so the pin is on the other side, and flip the clamp, thereby converting it between pull-to-open and pull-to-close. If you were to do that, the cable clamp would be on the wrong side of the valve wouldn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 (edited) I've attached an image of how I have mine connected. It is just laying against the fender. I will create a mount for it soon and attach the cable to it. Also, this is the closed position. Chris Edited February 22, 2019 by first64riv Added additional info. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 11 hours ago, RivNut said: If you were to do that, the cable clamp would be on the wrong side of the valve wouldn't it? Turn the clamp 180° and put the cable underneath it. Yes, it would be resting on the flat section of bracket, but there would likely be sufficient clamping force to hold it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now