Mattml430

Balancing 4cyl engine

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21 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

LoL! You have me. I hadn't realised you had a tube fixing the diff. and driveline angles. So yes, if you can make the crankshaft and gearbox main shaft parallel to the "torque" tube, it should be sweet! Well, parallel, yes, but essentially a continuation of that centreline.

Great, thank you for your help. I’ll see how it all turns out. I’m about to put it up in the air and see how it all goes. 

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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, Mattml430 said:

Great, thank you for your help. I’ll see how it all turns out. I’m about to put it up in the air and see how it all goes.  

I hope I haven't been pontificating through my hat and have made a positive contribution for a change. I am looking forward to seeing what you find out.

 

You need it sitting on the suspension to set it up, else the diff. might not be in the driving attitude.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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16 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

I hope I haven't been pontificating through my hat and have made a positive contribution for a change. I am looking forward to seeing what you find out.

 

You need it sitting on the suspension to set it up, else the diff. might not be in the driving attitude.

Yes totally agree, I will be setting it up as close to the original height at the rear mounts. I don’t want to change the geometry of it at all really. If I can get it as nice to drive as the victory I’ll be happy. 

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Posted (edited)

On a flat level surface too....I use a carpenter's plumb (bob) line to see the angles better, as you know the plumb line will always be perpendicular to the center line....that gravity is handy sometimes.

Edited by Surf City '38 (see edit history)
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16 minutes ago, Surf City '38 said:

the plumb line will always be perpendicular to the center line.

Ahem, "deviation of the vertical" means this is not necessarily true! Near large mountains or iron ore bodies, the plumb line will deviate towards the large mountain or ore body. Sorry, I was a surveyor once. This won't matter one iota to Matt though. :rolleyes:

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Old Plumb Bob...

 

All these years I though he was such a straight-up guy, and now I find out he's crooked.

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5 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Old Plumb Bob...

 

All these years I though he was such a straight-up guy, and now I find out he's crooked.

 

I heard he is left leaning, but it maybe different from other side...😉

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I manage to get the chassis side of the mount tacked in and have made one side of the bell housing mount. Was called in for dinner so that’s as far as I got. I’m happy with how neatly it’s gone in and will just need to allow a little on the edge to allow for a bit of movement. 

I’ve basically cut the side off the chassis mount and left the front and back in the chassis. I then welded a plate in between them and have sat the rubber engine mount on it. Ive utilised the plate that bolts to the bell housing, welded the nuts on behind it so I can just bolt the bell housing in once the mounts are in place. I have welded a plate with a small gusset at 90* on the inside of it to rest it onto the mount. 

I have suspended the engine in it’s original position so I can keep a check on the alignment of it all. I’ve raise the rubber mount up about 3-4mm to allow for a little sag once the weight is on it. 

 

 

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Managed to get it all done and back together today and test drove it this afternoon. I have to say 90% of the engine vibration is gone from the chassis and car. The difference is amazing, it’s such a difference I might do the victory. It’s actually enjoyable to drive now. I also put some rubber under the front bolt so the front mounts  are sandwiched between rubber. 

 

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I have modded a spare engine mount bracket on my ‘23 for rubber engine mounts. The chassis and rear mounting system is way different than the later model. I will be fitting it over the weekend and I think it will make a big difference.

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If you can’t feel the vibes how do you know how fast you are going:)

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The difference is amazing, so much nicer to drive. 

 

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On 8/21/2019 at 11:50 PM, John McEwan said:

I have modded a spare engine mount bracket on my ‘23 for rubber engine mounts. The chassis and rear mounting system is way different than the later model. I will be fitting it over the weekend and I think it will make a big difference.

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Also John when you go to put your floor back in just make sure there is enough clearance around the top of the gearbox. I originally made my floors to fit tight and after the rubber mounts it started to squeak. So I had to take them out and allow a little more clearance. 

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Posted (edited)

The I took the DB on a short test drive this afternoon and I have to say within 10 seconds of driving off I could feel a vast improvement. Where it used to vibrate a lot in second in the higher revs there is nothing to speak of now. In 3rd gear cruising along it is the same story. When decelerating from speed before there was a big vibration now it is smooth as silk. The engine even seems to have more acceleration now. Next job is to make a new foot brake mount as the old mounting point had to make way for the new rubber engine mount. Testing with just the hand brake is scary but I couldn’t wait any longer. I also fitted a flexible exhaust joiner under the front floor board so the header could move and not affect the rest of the solid mounted system.

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Edited by John McEwan (see edit history)
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Good stuff John. You would think it’s not the same car it was a week ago hey!! The difference is huge isn’t it. How did you go with the front mount?

its definitely worth the effort. 

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The front mount is still standard. I figured with the front being a pivot the slight side to side rocking with the rear rubber mount will be taken up ok. Seems that is the case.

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Makes good  sense, just keep it greased up a bit. 

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I have had the DB out on several trips since fitting the new rubber engine mounts and all I can say the improvement is amazing. Even my wife noticed a big improvement in smoothness and is willing to come on more drives. That’s saying something.

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