Sactownog Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 ANYONE HAVE ANY LEADS ON AN OVERDRIVE MANUAL TRANSMISSION THAT WILL FIT TO A 1953 230 FLAT HEAD 6 THAT IS IN MY 1933 DODGE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uptowndodge Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 I got a 36 Mopar 3 speed w/ overdrive $1000 firm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 On 2/13/2019 at 8:07 PM, Uptowndodge said: I got a 36 Mopar 3 speed w/ overdrive $1000 firm can you post pictures of it? will this swap in with minimal modifications? (very interested) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 (edited) 1st question: where is the hand brake? If on the back of the gearbox, does the o/d have it there too? 1st observation: you will need a shorter drive shaft because the gearbox is longer. 2nd observation: o/d transmissions often have a support at the rear. You might need one of those too. 2nd question: do you have "floating power"? If so, how does that affect the gearbox mounting system? 4th question: does it need a cable to engage and disengage it and if so, does it come with that? Edited February 15, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 1st question: where is the hand brake? If on the back of the gearbox, does the o/d have it there too? HAND BRAKE IS ON TAIL OF TRANSMISSION; I REMOVED MINE DUE TO VIBRATION AND TAIL SHAFT BEARING NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. 1st observation: you will need a shorter drive shaft because the gearbox is longer. I CAN HAVE A DRIVE SHAFT BUILT LOCALLY WHEN I FIGURE OUT TRANSMISSION AND REAR END COMBO. 2nd observation: o/d transmissions often have a support at the rear. You might need one of those too. WHAT DO YOU MEAN SUPPORT AT REAR (CROSS MEMBER ON TRANSMISSION REAR?) 2nd question: do you have "floating power"? If so, how does that affect the gearbox mounting system? YES, HAS FLOATING POWER, I HAVE NEVER USED IT, HEARD IT SUCKS AND MAY RUIN OR CAUSE ACCIDENTS. 4th question: does it need a cable to engage and disengage it and if so, does it come with that? FLOATING POWER I AM TOLD MESSES UP DRIVING ABILITY AND CAUSES ACCIDENTS OR CAN AT LEAST. Edited 24 minutes ago by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Sactownog said: HAND BRAKE IS ON TAIL OF TRANSMISSION; I REMOVED MINE DUE TO VIBRATION AND TAIL SHAFT BEARING NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. Eh? So where is your hand brake now? 1 hour ago, Sactownog said: WHAT DO YOU MEAN SUPPORT AT REAR (CROSS MEMBER ON TRANSMISSION REAR?) Yes. On my Studebaker it is a light cross member that sits under the transmission rear and bolts to the bottom of the chassis. The rear of the o/d case just sits on a rubber cradle on the cross member. 1 hour ago, Sactownog said: YES, HAS FLOATING POWER, I HAVE NEVER USED IT, HEARD IT SUCKS AND MAY RUIN OR CAUSE ACCIDENTS. Pardon? Floating power is the Chrysler name for their early rubber engine mounting system. We have talked about this before with you and Taylormade showed the setup in his 1932 DL. I think you are confusing it with Freewheeling. How can that cause accidents? It is no different to a modern automatic transmission where there is no or very little engine braking. Remember you have BRAKES to stop you. All freewheeling does is let you coast with the engine idling with no connection to the drive shaft. Just put your foot on the accelerator to re-engage the drive or the brakes to stop. When you drop below the o/d dropout speed you will re-engage normal drive so you will need to use the clutch when you stop. If you get a case with the hand brake on the back of the overdrive, you will need to fabricate a system to connect it to the hand brake lever if you want that in the original location. Here is a page of info. restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4849 This link will download a pdf file. See post number 5: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-unusual-transmission-thread.1017453/ You will probably devalue that original 1933 Chev by doing this work. Edited February 16, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 I have tried to explain the Floating Power system to Sactownog several times in the past. I must be doing a bad job, as it doesn’t seem to be getting through. This system makes it difficult to install a different transmission due to the design of the motor/transmission mounts. The car already has a non-original, later engine, so originality isn’t an issue. If you get by the mounting problem, you may find the the design of the X-frame may not give you enough room for the much longer overdrive unit. Anyway you cut it, this isn’t a drop in swap. You will have to remove the motor and trans, design and fabricate new mounts and supports, and probably have to cut on the frame. If you current;y are confused as to the difference between Floating Power and freewheeling, you need to do more research before taking on this project. It would be easier and less work to get a modern overdrive unit designed to work between the trans and the differential. They have been discussed many times on these forums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Freewheeling I believe is what it was called, I am just not familiar with this and have really not had to much time to research it, I do know on the dash of my car there is a lever you pull and it is supposed to do something with the transmission. however I have not pulled it and really don't know if it works at the moment. I removed the hand brake because after many tries of adjusting it, the rear brake shoes kept vibrating at 40+ mph causing a bad vibration sound and feel. so it got disconnected and I carry a chock block to block the car and I keep it in gear when parked so it stays still. I am talking with uptown Dodge about this transmission. if it will work, I will go that rout. he says its a 3 speed with OD. not sure if that means it has different gears as a 3 speed or if it has a 4th OD gear to shift into. I am waiting to find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 (edited) It is a 3 speed with an extra bit on the back for a set of planetary gears to reduce the drive from 1:1 to about 0.85:1 or something. There is also freewheeling so the knob in your dash would operate the o/d lever on the box. It sounds like you need to replace the shoes in your rear brakes and adjust them properly so they don't chatter with the hand brake.If the shoes have oil on them, where is it from? The Diff? If so, the inner seal needs to be replaced. Here is one: https://www.partsclassiccar.com/car-detail/transmission-drivetrain/1936-Desoto-Airstream-Dodge-Plymouth-Overdrive_192675255297.html Edited February 18, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Someone got a pretty good deal on that one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 it looks similar, I believe I can make that work on my car. so its a 3 speed with better gears. that should allow me to drive a bit faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I parted out a 37 Desoto a few years ago. It had one of these mechanical ODs. I cannot verify what it would or wouldn't fit but yes, It was a three speed with a additional box on the back that bumped the final ratio beyond one to one. If I am remembering correctly I sold it to a guy with a later Plymouth. Maybe in the 40s. (not sure) He pulled it himself and took the then frozen cable and the driveline as well. I think I got $400 for it, but now the going rate seems be a thousand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Overhaul the gearbox before you install it. The needle rollers in the planetary gears were square barrels on mine. The thing was pretty worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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