Summershandy

Starter/starting issue

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, Bloo said:

I probably already asked this

 

No you haven't Bloo. I will check into that, thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took the solenoid apart and I've seen cleaner contacts. Contact area is the edge of the bolt head and edge of the disc. 4The bolt head can be turned 180 degrees to make a clean surface again. I wish I could flip the disc to the clean side but it seems the pin holding it on is squashed a bit to hold it in place. I don't want to mess around with that or I'll probably be looking for a new rebuild or something. I lightly sanded the corroded edge smooth. What's interesting to me is the disc looks aluminum and the contact area is copper. Is that a coating of some sort?

 

 

IMG_7808.JPG

IMG_7809.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I almost forgot about the other bolt head. I turned that one 180 also. I also decided to open up the starter seeing I had it out. It really was clean. No dust or anything. About the only  thing I could clean was where the brushes contact and the end shaft. The old grease felt gummy so put a little new grease on it also. 

I really hope this is the fix I've been looking for! 

 

 

IMG_7810.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The disc might be tin plated. When they don't work it is generally not because the contacts are dirty, but because the head has eroded away, and the disc cannot quite reach anymore. Look for the metal to be eroded away quite a bit. Click.... click.... and then sometimes it works.

 

If your solenoid plunger is threaded and adjustable (Is it?), make sure it is adjusted correctly. I don't know what the setting is, but if it is adjustable the shop manual should have it. (For example, mid 30s Buick is 1/8" between the end of the drive pinion and the nose casting with the solenoid pulled in.) I suspect if it were out of whack far enough it could prevent the disc and bolts from doing their job.

 

I wasn't expecting to see those oval headed bolts. That must have been new in 1954. I had a 1953 Chevrolet once with a very similar looking starter, and I could have sworn it had the older type thick-headed copper bolts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dang, wish I would have waited for your reply LOL. The solenoid mounting plate is slotted allowing it to be moved forward to backward but the funny thing is, each bolt holding it down are at the outside of those slots. It can only be mounted in one position. So I can't see any way it can move or be adjusted. Now I'm just curious what the pinion measurement is. Maybe it's not the correct solenoid for that starter. It does look awful new. 

 

 

 

 

IMG_7811.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

On some of the older ones, there are threads on the linkage into the plunger. I think you have to have the plunger out, or the linkage off or something. In any event that must not apply to yours, or they would have mentioned it.

 

I haven't actually seen that adjustment causing "click click click" but I think it could if it was blocking motion of the solenoid, either by touching the tip of the starter housing, or the ring gear.

 

Normally, the solenoid pulls the gear into position, and when it bottoms out, it kicks a pin that kicks the copper disc. If you look closely you will see that at the back, where the disc is mounted, there is a little spring under a clip. When the disc hits the bolts, it compresses the little spring. That way there is a little extra travel so that as the bolts wear off, the copper disc will continue to make contact when the solenoid pulls in. Eventually that extra travel is used up, and the disc can no longer reach.

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think bloo is giving you good ideas I have not seen a coated ring before may be the problem usually  copper that could be problem.as to safety switch if you bypass it you can feel assured it is not the problem.to bypass simply undo one side and place it on other side with it now having both wires on one terminal either side will do.remember to change back if it eliminates the clicking.I doubt it is problem but easy to test this way..just make sure when starting you have in neutral or park with parking brake on

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

try this: next time problem occurs, hook up a remote starter button( the tool used to turn engine over to find timing mark etc.) if the starter works with that, you have just eliminated ign and neutral safety switchs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, 54vicky said:

as to safety switch if you bypass it

 

I've heard of guys bypassing it permanently when they have issues.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, cheezestaak2000 said:

next time problem occurs, hook up a remote starter button

 

...because I always drive around with one LOL.....the starter usually kicks in next try but thanks for that idea!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
50 minutes ago, 54vicky said:

I have not seen a coated ring before may be the problem usually  copper that could be problem.

 

When I sanded the corrosion down I got a clean copper surface. Maybe that'll help. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All of the new movable contacts are tin coated. I believe Delco-Remy started doing this in 24V solenoid applications and the aftermarket followed suit and used it in all applications.. The stationary contacts were downsized with the 10MT starter. Some movable contact disc;s can be flipped. Check both sides of the disc. If you have a C clip that can be slid out. Use a flat blade screwdriver to take the tension off the spring. Looking at your pictures that looks like normal years of use wear. If any of the contacts have turned purple or gold that would indicate high heat which would mean a voltage drop problem. Since all your contacts are still nice and copper and your movable is still tin plated with very small arc marks that is why I say normal wear. 

 

Jeff

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jeff. I was unable to flip the disc. The pin that holds it in place has been hit at it's end with enough force to swell it enough to lock the pin in place. I didn't want to monkey with it. I went out yesterday and started the car 4 times. Sounded like a good strong crank without any clicks.....yet. I'll post again after a bunch more cruises. If the click goes away, we know what the major cause was. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've started the engine over a dozen times in the past 2 days and haven't had a click issue yet. Much better than previous times. Think we're on the right track!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, turning those bolt heads 180 degrees usually fixes the click click click problem on GM solenoids. 6 volt or 12 volt, same construction. 

 

I use to buy the bolts (terminals) from a local AC Delco distributor (Auto Electric, now many owners later part of UCI). They used to rebuild starters and generators, but stopped sometime in the 60s. Still had parts on the shelf. Nice to have a direct from AC Delco jobber close by.😉

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another dozen starts yesterday, still tickin', no clickin'...... 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now