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On 2/8/2019 at 12:50 PM, old-tank said:

Now I need a source for GOOD panhard or track bar bushings.  They have been replaced 4 times on this car and are again soft wallowed out mush.  Polyurethane that will fit?

Found some that will work.  http://suspension.com

part number:  bulk-2007     $5.67 each, need four.MVIMG_20190227_161852779.thumb.jpg.b98869c59036e3eadc7d0bd2443cd107.jpg

 

 

They need some modification to fit:  the flange end is domed and is easily sanded, filed or ground down flat; they need to be cut to length...hose cutter worked for me.

They did not ship with lube, so buy some if you don't have on hand.

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Thanks old-tank. Do you have any measurements handy? Inner diameter of the panhard bushing retainer? Did you use a steeve for the bolt?

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13 hours ago, 1956century said:

Thanks old-tank. Do you have any measurements handy? Inner diameter of the panhard bushing retainer? Did you use a steeve for the bolt?

No sleeve. Other than the dome on the flange end and longer length they fit the 1 1/8 inch bore of the panhard bard and the the 5/8 inch pins.  They are installed, but no test drive yet.  I don't expect much difference from stock...just hope they last longer than the other available bushings.

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It is alive!  And no transmission leaks.  Time to continue killing bugs and killing the planet before Comrade Cortez and company take away my fuel!

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I take it you're not excited for the Green New Deal? On the bright side, maybe aftermarket manufacturers will make hydrogen or electric retrofit kits.

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1 hour ago, Beemon said:

I take it you're not excited for the Green New Deal? On the bright side, maybe aftermarket manufacturers will make hydrogen or electric retrofit kits.

Don;t get me started or censored again.  Now we are flush with energy and the idiots want to get rid of it.

The drive did not last long:  water pump leaking :(.  Easy fix compared to last time it was changed in the middle of Idaho in 2007 on the way back from Seattle.  That time the bearing failed after only few thousand miles.

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On ‎3‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 11:45 AM, old-tank said:

Comrade Cortez and company take away my fuel!

And make nice juicy steaks and farts illegal.............Bob

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On 3/9/2019 at 8:56 AM, Beemon said:

I take it you're not excited for the Green New Deal? On the bright side, maybe aftermarket manufacturers will make hydrogen or electric retrofit kits.

Going to ease a Tesla chassis and running gear under mine.   

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Posted (edited)
On 3/9/2019 at 10:46 AM, old-tank said:

Don;t get me started or censored again.  Now we are flush with energy and the idiots want to get rid of it.

The drive did not last long:  water pump leaking :(.  Easy fix compared to last time it was changed in the middle of Idaho in 2007 on the way back from Seattle.  That time the bearing failed after only few thousand miles.

 

Always hate fixing one problem only to have another crop up in a matter of hours after the repair is complete.   Sometimes it happens and the car is not off the jack stands!!!  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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On 2/28/2019 at 1:59 PM, old-tank said:

IMG_20190225_171556452.thumb.jpg.a701cbc3bbdbbc999063e04b8fe7f6e2.jpg

 

One other tool.  I use a bumper jack with the bottom in the pocket of the X-frame with the lift portion engaging a chain at the front of the torque tube just in front of the strut rods.   I find it easier to control without getting out from under the car and dealing with ratchet straps at the back (unless you have a helper that can follow commands).

OK, go ahead and shoot me.  The jack used is an original 55 Buick double acting jack!

Ditto for me the 5 or 6 times I replaced the dynaflow in my '54 (when I was young and too dumb to treat the transmission kindly [L to D shifts around 60 mph under full throttle]). Last replacement was from a '55 (including linkage) which solved the problem as D only was "fast" enough!

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LEAKS!

1-  Water pump:  the 5/16 bolts that go thru the timing cover even though I slathered the threads (permatex aviation form a gasket) like I alway do.  No big deal, drain the coolant and this time use teflon tape like  used on ford flatheads.  (last time the pump was changed in a motel parking lot in Idaho all I used for sealer on the gasket and bolts was some bearing grease which  lasted for 80K miles).

2- Noticed that radiator petcock would not seal completely.  No problem, just change it.  Not!!  After an hour of fiddling the radiator tank was deforming.  Off to the radiator shop where they twisted a hole.  I brought them a spare tank to install.

3-  THE LEAK:  dynaflow has been dry on short 10-20 mile trips, but is leaking from behind the torque converter again after a long hot highway run.  I'm gonna try a few things before I line up a different transmission to have rebuilt.  Stay tuned

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Posted (edited)

Maybe your bell housing is warped? Fluid getting too hot? 

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)

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My 56’, someone prior to me had shoved small pieces of rag in the transmission cooler lines where they unscrewed from the tranny and then reinstalled them without taking out the rag pieces. That is what cooked my oil in the tranny.  

Matt

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No abnormal heat...it already has a fan driven external cooler in addition to the stock heat exchanger.

Remembering what my transmission mentor said (hoping it was not too late ;))  that when working for Buick on dynaflows that they always changed the rear main bearings on high mileage cars because excessive crankshaft thrust would eat up a new transmission seals.

Checking the crankshaft end play or thrust on mine with and without the torque converter attached I got 0.0035 inches (service manual says 0.004-0.008), so that is not the problem.  With the torque converter loose i noticed that there is about a 0.090 inch front to back movement.  So I made some 0.060 shims to put between the flexplate and torque converter, changing the location of the sealing surface of the seal.  Test drive scheduled...stay tuned.

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shims...made it worse!  Time to put it back where it was and dump in some STP.  Then see if I can live with it or trust it to take me a long way from home this summer.:(

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Posted (edited)

@old-tank  from the 1956 Product Services Bulletins.  It may not apply to your 55 but it does make interesting reading.

1293349473_1dfleak.thumb.jpg.d642abb5beb1251f0f0fa90617a3b21a.jpg

 

1677703440_2dfleak.thumb.jpg.b6caec1d9e2890754b39ef85d17a24f2.jpg

 

The picture below is posted just for the illustration itself .  The two pictures below it are the written narrative accompanying the illustration.

295001760_3dfleak1.thumb.jpg.5efe849877db88a0bf53569d73691e5d.jpg

 

84457310_4dfleak1.thumb.jpg.10de62cda3f710c12cc8239a801e17ef.jpg

 

1408101292_5dfleak1.thumb.jpg.c33f1934f979a248809ae1c56561ac8f.jpg

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
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Thanks John.  I doubt that seal is readily available.  That is the same type seal as used in the A-5 a/c compressor and by design those seals (vs the available lip seals) will slobber a little oil.  Anyhow the hub was not scored and if it was the fix nowadays would be to install a repair sleeve over the scored area. 

My guess is that there is a crack in either the torque converter or the front pump that spreads when hot.  Somewhere I saw a bulletin that described bolting the converter together on a bench with no "innards" and pressurizing with air while dunking in a tub of water.  Even then it might require hot water to find a crack.  If that transmission comes out again it will go a shelf to donate parts...never to be installed!  I've had all the fun I can stand.

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Drove about 170 miles this weekend:  water pump is dry; radiator is dry; tranny still leaking but not as much (wishful thinking?) after the STP.  I will add another bottle after it leaks down.

Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend.  If stable it will go to OKC in June

Gotta get back to killin' bugs and killin' the planet :D.

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15 hours ago, old-tank said:

Drove about 170 miles this weekend:  water pump is dry; radiator is dry; tranny still leaking but not as much (wishful thinking?) after the STP.  I will add another bottle after it leaks down.

Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend.  If stable it will go to OKC in June

Gotta get back to killin' bugs and killin' the planet :D.

 

I'd roll with it.  See what happens! 

 

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18 hours ago, old-tank said:

Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend. 

I will be behind you with a chain..😁

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1 hour ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

I will be behind you with a chain..😁

Thanks, but I should have a few hours to waste waiting on Haggerty roadside assistance.;)

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5 hours ago, old-tank said:

Thanks, but I should have a few hours to waste waiting on Haggerty roadside assistance.;)

 

 

  No way!  I have confidence in you.

 

  Ben

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Posted (edited)
On 4/23/2019 at 2:11 PM, old-tank said:

Thanks, but I should have a few hours to waste waiting on Haggerty roadside assistance.;)

Just throw a spare in the trunk, I’m sure by now you could  swap one out before Haggerty arrives. 

Sorry to see you having such difficulties, got to be frustrating 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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On 4/23/2019 at 12:25 PM, Bill Stoneberg said:

I will be behind you with a chain..😁

 

A chain won't work that way.

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8 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

 

A chain won't work that way.

 

Depends on what you are going to do with the chain....

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