JohnD1956 Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) @old-tank from the 1956 Product Services Bulletins. It may not apply to your 55 but it does make interesting reading. The picture below is posted just for the illustration itself . The two pictures below it are the written narrative accompanying the illustration. Edited April 20, 2019 by JohnD1956 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 20, 2019 Author Share Posted April 20, 2019 Thanks John. I doubt that seal is readily available. That is the same type seal as used in the A-5 a/c compressor and by design those seals (vs the available lip seals) will slobber a little oil. Anyhow the hub was not scored and if it was the fix nowadays would be to install a repair sleeve over the scored area. My guess is that there is a crack in either the torque converter or the front pump that spreads when hot. Somewhere I saw a bulletin that described bolting the converter together on a bench with no "innards" and pressurizing with air while dunking in a tub of water. Even then it might require hot water to find a crack. If that transmission comes out again it will go a shelf to donate parts...never to be installed! I've had all the fun I can stand. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 22, 2019 Author Share Posted April 22, 2019 Drove about 170 miles this weekend: water pump is dry; radiator is dry; tranny still leaking but not as much (wishful thinking?) after the STP. I will add another bottle after it leaks down. Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend. If stable it will go to OKC in June Gotta get back to killin' bugs and killin' the planet . 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 15 hours ago, old-tank said: Drove about 170 miles this weekend: water pump is dry; radiator is dry; tranny still leaking but not as much (wishful thinking?) after the STP. I will add another bottle after it leaks down. Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend. If stable it will go to OKC in June Gotta get back to killin' bugs and killin' the planet . I'd roll with it. See what happens! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 18 hours ago, old-tank said: Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend. I will be behind you with a chain..😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 1 hour ago, Bill Stoneberg said: I will be behind you with a chain..😁 Thanks, but I should have a few hours to waste waiting on Haggerty roadside assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 5 hours ago, old-tank said: Thanks, but I should have a few hours to waste waiting on Haggerty roadside assistance. No way! I have confidence in you. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 (edited) On 4/23/2019 at 2:11 PM, old-tank said: Thanks, but I should have a few hours to waste waiting on Haggerty roadside assistance. Just throw a spare in the trunk, I’m sure by now you could swap one out before Haggerty arrives. Sorry to see you having such difficulties, got to be frustrating Edited April 25, 2019 by MrEarl (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 On 4/23/2019 at 12:25 PM, Bill Stoneberg said: I will be behind you with a chain..😁 A chain won't work that way. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 8 hours ago, 60FlatTop said: A chain won't work that way. Depends on what you are going to do with the chain.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 I heard that statement for the first time when a Honda Goldwing owner offered to tow a guy's Harley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 Pushing a car with a chain... umm hmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 Let's not be yanking anyone's chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 16 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said: Let's not be yanking anyone's chain. GROANE! Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 14, 2019 Author Share Posted May 14, 2019 On 2/28/2019 at 4:09 PM, old-tank said: Found some that will work. http://suspension.com part number: bulk-2007 $5.67 each, need four. They need some modification to fit: the flange end is domed and is easily sanded, filed or ground down flat; they need to be cut to length...hose cutter worked for me. They did not ship with lube, so buy some if you don't have on hand. On 3/3/2019 at 9:27 AM, old-tank said: No sleeve. Other than the dome on the flange end and longer length they fit the 1 1/8 inch bore of the panhard bard and the the 5/8 inch pins. They are installed, but no test drive yet. I don't expect much difference from stock...just hope they last longer than the other available bushings. "I don't expect much difference" Wrong! There is a huge difference. Driving on crowned roads: right lane or left lane (passing cars) it is as stable as any vehicle I own. Same with high winds, up to 40 mph winds I have encountered (any direction)...I forgot I was driving a 55 Buick! A combination of New + Polyurethane and the rear does not steer the car. I am going to order some more for another 55. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 15, 2019 Share Posted May 15, 2019 Thanks for the check back Willie! I was seriously starting to think about a rear sway bar after my last jog over the mountains but now I have a much cheaper option to explore. As always, you are a great help to these forums and I appreciate you posting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 20, 2019 Author Share Posted May 20, 2019 On 5/14/2019 at 1:47 PM, old-tank said: the rear does not steer the car. Also improvement on rough roads like railroad tracks. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Interesting.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 (edited) On 2/28/2019 at 5:09 PM, old-tank said: Found some that will work. http://suspension.com part number: bulk-2007 $5.67 each, need four. They need some modification to fit: the flange end is domed and is easily sanded, filed or ground down flat; they need to be cut to length...hose cutter worked for me. They did not ship with lube, so buy some if you don't have on hand. Posted this here where first mentioned, if the admin wants to move it no issues. After Willie found these urethane parts and declared improvements, and JD replaced his original bushings with new rubber ones and also claimed an improvement, figured it was time to replace my last suspension components original to the car - these panhard bushings I went Willie’s route, ordered the urethanes as specified and modified as discussed. Snapped one of two bolts that attach to captive nuts on the pass side. Could not get a nut welded on to hold up after 5 tries so went old school and drilled it out, however, to come at it straight would have required pulling both axle and brake backing plate with lever shock attached and we weren’t havin none of that. So, eyeballed the correct cockeyed angle and started off center, accurately drilling crooked across the bolt and just kissing the threads on the far edge of the backend, whacked it with a chisel to get it out and ran a tap through saving the threads. Not bad for a rookie. 6 hours of working 68 year old hardware, a BFH and a BFC (Crowbar) and it was off the car, all remaining hardware intact. Ever get the idea leave well enough alone? I followed the outlined process of grinding the domes on the ends flat. Then jigged them up on a drill bit and cut to length with a hacksaw on a marked yellow line. Use Syl Glide to lubricate the bushings on the pins - no squeaks. Needed a big C clamp to compress and seat the pin into the bushing on the drivers side. Passenger side seated no problem. Recommend tightening the pin nuts first, then the drivers side bracket nuts, then snugging up the passenger side fore and aft facing bolts finger tight, then tighten the 2 bolts facing the passenger side tire to pull the bar in tight to the frame bracket, then finish tightening the fore and aft bolts. Last photo shows difference in the bushing center hole. After re-assembly first very noticeable difference was pushing sideways on the back of the car - it does not yield. It drives like a completely different car on wavy upstate back country roads. 40 years ago I remember what it was like to drive on bias tires and worn out parts, read the road crown ahead of you and turn left to go right. Note today the car has all rebuilt suspension and steering components, springs, radial tires and one of Brads HD sway bars up front with urethane bushings also. And while it was stable and driveable, with the rear bushings replaced the car does not wander in the least on curvy roads with heavy road crown, even crown that is intuitively opposite the turn. It tracks much straighter and holds track longer. And for a reason I can’t understand the back of the car seems quieter and much more solid over rough country roads or railroad track. Highway test tomorrow and expect same improved results. I also noticed the steering is now slightly off center to go straight hands free on a no crown stretch of road, probably 11:58-59 position. I’m attributing that to wear in the old bushings, so will adjust the tie rods accordingly. Granted this is subjective, but I really, really am surprised at the level of improvement. Thanks for researching the parts to get Willie - appreciate it. Edited July 11, 2023 by KAD36 (see edit history) 4 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted July 11, 2023 Share Posted July 11, 2023 What ever came of the transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 12, 2023 Author Share Posted July 12, 2023 10 hours ago, NC-car-guy said: What ever came of the transmission? Still motivating the car. Torque converter will leak on extended road trips. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Caruso Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 Hi, I just picked up a 1955 Buick Special and when I bought it the guy said “When I parked it and didn’t use it for a while and when I looked there was transmission fluid all over the floor!” Is there any common place I should be looking when I refill it? I know the Torque Ball boot ? The dip stick tube seal? Pan gasket? Just wondering if there is a common place they will leak from when sitting . Thanks in Advance. Joe Ny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 They leak just sitting. Landlords hate to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted August 11, 2023 Share Posted August 11, 2023 I suggest buying a package of dog training pads and putting a layer in a large drip pan. Then put that under it for a day. That should show the location of drips from the trans indicating potential areas to look at. These transmissions can leak from the front seal, the two actuators, the pan gasket, the oil fill tube connector, the spedometer drive the rear torque ball and the remote transmission cooler. The good news is driving them regularly revolves some of those leaks. And the better news is they can be very reliable regardless of leaks. You may also benefit from washing the underside before this exercise. Warm it up by driving it for an hour and then spray Simple Green detergent on all surfaces. Give it 10 minutes to soak in and rinse thoroughly. That should remove any oil that has been pushed by air flow across sealed surfaces. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted August 11, 2023 Author Share Posted August 11, 2023 If not used regularly the torque converter on any automatic transmission including a the dynaflow will leak back into the pan, over filling it and then it leaks out of some or all of the sites noted above. And sometimes on start up the air in the torque converter will blow the fluid out the dip-stick/filler. Seal what you can and drive it more often! 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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