37 Buick Special

1937 Buick Stromberg Carb With Vacuum Starter Switch

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Can anyone help me out with some good fairly close up photos of an installed vacuum starter switch for Stromberg carburator? Email is opusone1945@sonic.net

Thank you,

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good Evening Dave,

 

I have detailed images of the vacuum start configuration, with Stromberg carburetor for the large series engine (320cu in).  The installation and configuration differ from the small series engine.  Please advise by direct email which configuration you are looking for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your quick reply Jon. Sorry, I didn't receive your email address so had to respond via website. I should have mentioned that the car is a Special so small series engine.

Best,

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dave:

 The vacuum switch looks the same and is connected the same for both series engines. The only difference I have is that I  have the notorious Marvel BD-1 as original equipment. The switch has a different part # depending on weather one had a Stromberg AAV or the Marvel. All connecting linkages are different between the 2 carbs. Also the choke is different  as mine has the earlier 1936 style Delco unit. My carb does OK and the vacuum switch works great as it should.

Here is the set up on my 1937-248 engine.

DSCF5932.thumb.JPG.675677bb1dc3e8851b03f006cf84bf8e.JPG  

 The Shop Manual should show the Stromberg. And the Wiring Diagram shows the electrical connections.

 Someone with a Stromberg set up should chime in.

Edited by dibarlaw (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Larry is correct on all accounts.  My car is the small series with the Stromberg. One modification I made was at the linkage by the carb with the piece of aluminum because I couldn't find an elusive piece. The piece of aluminum takes up slack and cuts down on hesitation. Adjustment of the switch is a little challenging but it is working correctly on my car.

P1260102.JPG

P1260104.JPG

P1260106.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, 37 Buick Special said:

Thank you for your quick reply Jon. Sorry, I didn't receive your email address so had to respond via website. I should have mentioned that the car is a Special so small series engine.

Best,

Dave

 

Hello Dave,

Glad to see others on the list could provide you with the images you need. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary,

I can't tell of which connectors is which at the end of the wires where they connect to the switch. The photos are a bit blurry. Could you by chance take some more (and advise of the connectors) and of the outboard side of the carburetor. After I sent the carb out for a rebuild two things don't line up. The threaded adjustment screw (don't tech name of these parts) and the butterfly like piece with the slot in it. There is a washer behind it that could be removed but that still would not be enough to compensate fof the offset.

Thank you for your help,

Dave

carb linkage.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

  Sorry the pictures aren't clearer, it's a case of holding a light with one hand and the camera in the other. I'm not sure exactly what you are looking to find out. Sorry but my car does not have the proper linkage piece so it probably won't do you any good. The wiring diagram in the shop manual should be able to answer your questions about the starter switch connections. I would suggest checking out the old Torque Tubes from the defunct 1937-1938 Club. You can find them here;
 
 
 One Issue that might answer your questions is here;
 
Carl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Carl.

I was trying to determine which wire goes to which terminal on the switch. They are shot as far as any color coding. Understood on the linkage. Thanks for the links, I really appreciate that, should be helpful.

Best,

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Dave a shop manual can be invaluable at times. This should help you out with the wiring.

 

Carl

P1290101.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carl,

Thank you very much for the clear photo. I did find an original manual in the trunk. As you see from the photo the two wires come out of a loom and are so old there are no markings on them. The connectors are different though. That was the reason for my question. So I can't tell which wire goes on which side of the switch. One connector is towards the bottom of the photo and the other to the right of the masking tape. Thanks for all your help.

Dave

Starter Switch.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I restored my '37, I obviously had a brand new wiring harness so the color codes were clear.

 

P1290101.thumb.JPG.f24e8bce6717482443bcac4877a15d6d.jpg.29275da3127737f50d9d78be42b4167b.jpg

Using the wiring schematic, I hooked up according to the chart.  The "Red Cross-tracers" to the front side of the switch, The "Black Parallel" tracers to the rear of the switch.

 

DSC_3167.thumb.JPG.59bc18715b6e67d097037ba6c7816a6f.JPG

So this is what the switch looked like before I swapped out the entire vac switch, automatic choke, carburetor...

 

But, I am wondering, if you look at the wiring diagram, can you simply remove the 16 BP wire off the solenoid and attach a small light bulb?

Then, using a 9V battery, try both your wires and see which one lights the lamp.  Maybe trace the circuit / wire that way?

 

Just a thought.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Once again, thank you Gary. Much appreciate your response. I do have new harnesses from the same vendor where you purchased yours. I just want to get the car running again prior to doing the wiring. I will use your suggestion with the 9 volt.

Thanks again!

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Dave sorry for the delay in responding. Furnace and cold issues lately have kept me out of the garage. Both of the wires on my switch have a straight connector and neither has a 90 degree end so we can't tell from the ends of your wires which one goes where. The 9 volt battery and bulb like Gary suggested will work and so would an ohm meter. That's why I use twist ties or clothespins to mark wires when I remove them

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carl,

 

No need to apologize. I appreciate your response. Yea, you are right for sure about marking them or taking pictures like Gary did. I was a bit hasty but did use some masking tape for clarification...but it is no longer readable. Project is progressing much slower than anticipated. So I will use you and Gary's suggestions.

 

Thanks,

Dave

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would anyone have images of their 37 motor with a Stromberg carburator attached? Specifically I am looking for the left side of the carb. I had mine rebuilt and now have an issue or two. Things aren't lining up. The Adjust Stop Screw does not line up with the the Cold Idle Control Cam. The cam is a bit loose and there is a washer behind it but I believe it has to be loose.

Thank you for any pointers.

Dave

Carb.jpg

Carb1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Dave I'm not familiar with a fast idle cam on a  1937 Special that looks like yours. The fast idle cams I'm familiar with look like the one on my car. Look at the last picture in post #5.

 It looks to me from your picture  someone converted an intake manifold that originally had a Delco choke to something that would work with the carburetor they were using.

 

Carl

Edited by 1937-44 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you gentlemen. Unfortunately I did not take good photos when I dissembled the carb and manifold from the engine. #1 mistake. But it is the same manifold and I sent the carb out for a rebuild so I would assume that it came back the same way. But maybe not. I guess now I have to take the fast idle cam back to original. Much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 They no longer have the numbers on the posts,  :( so you have to start at the top of this subject and count down. Just realized I still have the picture in my computer so I've attached it again.

 Your manifold looks like it has the studs cut off that used to hold the Delco starter (top right and left). Intake manifolds for the Stromberg carburetor didn't have those studs. The fast idle cams I'm familiar with sit close to the intake manifold.

P1260106.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe it would be easier to get the correct intake manifold from Dave Tacheny to match the carb you are using than it would be to modify the carburetor to work with the existing intake manifold. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...