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1937 Buick Stromberg Carb With Vacuum Starter Switch


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Good Evening Dave,

 

I have detailed images of the vacuum start configuration, with Stromberg carburetor for the large series engine (320cu in).  The installation and configuration differ from the small series engine.  Please advise by direct email which configuration you are looking for.

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Dave:

 The vacuum switch looks the same and is connected the same for both series engines. The only difference I have is that I  have the notorious Marvel BD-1 as original equipment. The switch has a different part # depending on weather one had a Stromberg AAV or the Marvel. All connecting linkages are different between the 2 carbs. Also the choke is different  as mine has the earlier 1936 style Delco unit. My carb does OK and the vacuum switch works great as it should.

Here is the set up on my 1937-248 engine.

DSCF5932.thumb.JPG.675677bb1dc3e8851b03f006cf84bf8e.JPG  

 The Shop Manual should show the Stromberg. And the Wiring Diagram shows the electrical connections.

 Someone with a Stromberg set up should chime in.

Edited by dibarlaw (see edit history)
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 Larry is correct on all accounts.  My car is the small series with the Stromberg. One modification I made was at the linkage by the carb with the piece of aluminum because I couldn't find an elusive piece. The piece of aluminum takes up slack and cuts down on hesitation. Adjustment of the switch is a little challenging but it is working correctly on my car.

P1260102.JPG

P1260104.JPG

P1260106.JPG

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15 hours ago, 37 Buick Special said:

Thank you for your quick reply Jon. Sorry, I didn't receive your email address so had to respond via website. I should have mentioned that the car is a Special so small series engine.

Best,

Dave

 

Hello Dave,

Glad to see others on the list could provide you with the images you need. 

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Gary,

I can't tell of which connectors is which at the end of the wires where they connect to the switch. The photos are a bit blurry. Could you by chance take some more (and advise of the connectors) and of the outboard side of the carburetor. After I sent the carb out for a rebuild two things don't line up. The threaded adjustment screw (don't tech name of these parts) and the butterfly like piece with the slot in it. There is a washer behind it that could be removed but that still would not be enough to compensate fof the offset.

Thank you for your help,

Dave

carb linkage.jpg

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  Sorry the pictures aren't clearer, it's a case of holding a light with one hand and the camera in the other. I'm not sure exactly what you are looking to find out. Sorry but my car does not have the proper linkage piece so it probably won't do you any good. The wiring diagram in the shop manual should be able to answer your questions about the starter switch connections. I would suggest checking out the old Torque Tubes from the defunct 1937-1938 Club. You can find them here;
 
 
 One Issue that might answer your questions is here;
 
Carl
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Carl,

Thank you very much for the clear photo. I did find an original manual in the trunk. As you see from the photo the two wires come out of a loom and are so old there are no markings on them. The connectors are different though. That was the reason for my question. So I can't tell which wire goes on which side of the switch. One connector is towards the bottom of the photo and the other to the right of the masking tape. Thanks for all your help.

Dave

Starter Switch.jpg

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When I restored my '37, I obviously had a brand new wiring harness so the color codes were clear.

 

P1290101.thumb.JPG.f24e8bce6717482443bcac4877a15d6d.jpg.29275da3127737f50d9d78be42b4167b.jpg

Using the wiring schematic, I hooked up according to the chart.  The "Red Cross-tracers" to the front side of the switch, The "Black Parallel" tracers to the rear of the switch.

 

DSC_3167.thumb.JPG.59bc18715b6e67d097037ba6c7816a6f.JPG

So this is what the switch looked like before I swapped out the entire vac switch, automatic choke, carburetor...

 

But, I am wondering, if you look at the wiring diagram, can you simply remove the 16 BP wire off the solenoid and attach a small light bulb?

Then, using a 9V battery, try both your wires and see which one lights the lamp.  Maybe trace the circuit / wire that way?

 

Just a thought.

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 Dave sorry for the delay in responding. Furnace and cold issues lately have kept me out of the garage. Both of the wires on my switch have a straight connector and neither has a 90 degree end so we can't tell from the ends of your wires which one goes where. The 9 volt battery and bulb like Gary suggested will work and so would an ohm meter. That's why I use twist ties or clothespins to mark wires when I remove them

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Carl,

 

No need to apologize. I appreciate your response. Yea, you are right for sure about marking them or taking pictures like Gary did. I was a bit hasty but did use some masking tape for clarification...but it is no longer readable. Project is progressing much slower than anticipated. So I will use you and Gary's suggestions.

 

Thanks,

Dave

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  • 3 weeks later...

Would anyone have images of their 37 motor with a Stromberg carburator attached? Specifically I am looking for the left side of the carb. I had mine rebuilt and now have an issue or two. Things aren't lining up. The Adjust Stop Screw does not line up with the the Cold Idle Control Cam. The cam is a bit loose and there is a washer behind it but I believe it has to be loose.

Thank you for any pointers.

Dave

Carb.jpg

Carb1.jpg

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 Dave I'm not familiar with a fast idle cam on a  1937 Special that looks like yours. The fast idle cams I'm familiar with look like the one on my car. Look at the last picture in post #5.

 It looks to me from your picture  someone converted an intake manifold that originally had a Delco choke to something that would work with the carburetor they were using.

 

Carl

Edited by 1937-44 (see edit history)
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Thank you gentlemen. Unfortunately I did not take good photos when I dissembled the carb and manifold from the engine. #1 mistake. But it is the same manifold and I sent the carb out for a rebuild so I would assume that it came back the same way. But maybe not. I guess now I have to take the fast idle cam back to original. Much appreciated.

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 They no longer have the numbers on the posts,  :( so you have to start at the top of this subject and count down. Just realized I still have the picture in my computer so I've attached it again.

 Your manifold looks like it has the studs cut off that used to hold the Delco starter (top right and left). Intake manifolds for the Stromberg carburetor didn't have those studs. The fast idle cams I'm familiar with sit close to the intake manifold.

P1260106.JPG

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I believe it would be easier to get the correct intake manifold from Dave Tacheny to match the carb you are using than it would be to modify the carburetor to work with the existing intake manifold. 

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Thank you Matt, Dave and Carl. It is not clear to me regarding your explanation of the issue with my manifold. When you say they cut the studs off. Here are a couple of photos to make the starter switch a little clearer. It seems to be the same as your manifold Carl if I am looking at the right place. Agreed, if need be I would go for a manifold replacement. You are saying that I could not replace the Cold Idle Control Thermostat with a correct one with this manifold?

Thank you,

Dave

 

Starter Swithc 3.jpg

Starter Switche 1.jpg

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Look at the area beside the carburetor on the various manifold photos posted in this discussion. Your manifold was designed for the Delco choke unit that bolted to the intake manifold beside the carburetor. It is not designed for the carburetor with an integral choke that you are using. There are various different intake manifolds and various different carburetors that they were designed to go with.   

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Here, I will try and show you with pictures. First picture is Gary's 1937 Buick with an early Delco choke. Notice the studs mounting the choke. Second picture is your manifold. It looks like it had the early Delco mounting studs. Third picture is a 1937 Buick manifold that had the later Delco choke. Notice it did does not have studs and has the fast idle cam in the location of the early Delco choke.

 

 Btw. I just noticed on your starter switch the second hole at the base is suppossed to secure it to the manifold with a bolt.

InkedDelco_LI.jpg

InkedCarb.thumb.jpg.1559d8667915bb6f67486a087ed9ca13_LI.jpg

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Edited by 1937-44
Additional observation. (see edit history)
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Being machined flat to me indicates that this may have had the BD-1 Marvel at one time as the fast idle cam is on the back side of the manifold. As an addendum about the early Delco choke units. Mine always worked OK but when Gary did his rebuild I thought I would do the same.  After the rebuild I believe it works as it should with no issues.

DSCF6103.thumb.JPG.ab27c2fcc67631b264364cc258db4bd8.JPG   DSCF6104.thumb.JPG.3875b967e725592b8b2d783c161dcac0.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, one thing after another. Looks like I need to locate an intake manifold for a 37 with vacuum starter port. If anyone has a line on one please let  me know. I checked with Dave and he does not have one but will be on the lookout for one.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

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  • 4 weeks later...

37 - 44 and Mc you are both right. Manifold studs were cut. Was able to find a manifold out here in California. Bob's had one. Was quite surprised. So cleaning it up and painting it for installation. Dave T. didn't have one.

Thank you all for your invaluable advice.

D.

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