PhilAndrews

'51 Chieftain - Transmission overhaul

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Another question! (Whodathunkit?)

 

Should the manifold be held in with all studs, or is it a mixture of studs and bolts?

 

I didn't measure, but the exhaust bolt on the furthest flywheel end is a bolt on mine- was that factory to allow the manifold clearance against the firewall to be removed?

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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1 hour ago, PhilAndrews said:

Another question! (Whodathunkit?)

 

Should the manifold be held in with all studs, or is it a mixture of studs and bolts?

 

I didn't measure, but the exhaust bolt on the furthest flywheel end is a bolt on mine- was that factory to allow the manifold clearance against the firewall to be removed?

 

Phil

all studs and nuts are used to mount the manifold assembly to the block, sounds like someone replace the rearmost stud with a bolt. 

 

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That's what I thought when I discovered the bolt wasn't into a blind hole and water came streaming out...

 

 

Phil

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6 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

That's what I thought when I discovered the bolt wasn't into a blind hole and water came streaming out...

 

That's what happened to me and scared the bejeebers out of me! Don't lose those washers with those studs either. They are really thick and perfect diameter fit for the manifold. I tried replacing one but couldn't find anything locally. Speaking of, was the manifold leaking at all before removal? Even after replacing the gasket I still couldn't get a good enough seal. I had to get it machined with the intake attached. Apparently they're prone to warpage. Mine is a tight seal now. You might want to check it when it's off.....

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When I got it no.

 

I tightened it up center, working outward and it sealed up ok, but the gasket on that end is bad and the water leaked from the bolt hole to the exhaust port.

 

Phil

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20190223_180246.thumb.jpg.0fd839405627a963881dee239ec7de4c.jpg

Cylinder head is coming up ok. Bought some new #9 blades for my scraper.

 

20190223_181008.thumb.jpg.39073facd6f6a71f9f050164f9e69054.jpg

Pistons just wiped clean with a little carburetor cleaner. I'll clean the deck up like the head. Whoever did the work wasn't as thorough.

 

Phil

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20190301_173659.thumb.jpg.c71a45cadd04c00ff2a7b94e7f1314d3.jpg

Block deck is clean, everything's in pretty good shape.

 

20190304_175930.thumb.jpg.82000d143a206dbf48f9161c46e78164.jpg

Cleaned the head up- what's the dimple in the squish space for? There's another in #1 on the other end.

 

Phil

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3 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

20190301_173659.thumb.jpg.c71a45cadd04c00ff2a7b94e7f1314d3.jpg

Block deck is clean, everything's in pretty good shape.

 

20190304_175930.thumb.jpg.82000d143a206dbf48f9161c46e78164.jpg

Cleaned the head up- what's the dimple in the squish space for? There's another in #1 on the other end.

 

Phil

most likely related to pontiac's manufactoring process in either casting the head or in machining the head.

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They're both by the intake valve. Shouldn't have thought it's anything to do with flow in the combustion area for the end two pots, so who knows. I'll go with manufacturing oddity for now, then.

 

Phil

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Pontiac used dark Brunswick green for their engines, from what I can see.

 

20190305_153308.thumb.jpg.b4023d8b2573b8096177c45b4bed7a7f.jpg

 

Admittedly not that color (better than Hunter green), but it's better than black.

 

Phil

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2 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Pontiac used dark Brunswick green for their engines, from what I can see.

 

20190305_153308.thumb.jpg.b4023d8b2573b8096177c45b4bed7a7f.jpg

 

Admittedly not that color (better than Hunter green), but it's better than black.

 

Phil

This is the color you should be going for;

Image result for pontiac straight eight images

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Mid Brunswick.

 

Being as my car is '57 Ford Thunderbird Starmist... Deep turquoise works.

 

Phill

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7 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

Mid Brunswick.

 

Being as my car is '57 Ford Thunderbird Starmist... Deep turquoise works.

 

Phill

What does a 57 Ford Thunderbird have anything to do with the correct color for a Straight eight or straight six Pontiac

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Posted (edited)

"close enough". Previous owners painted the car the wrong shade of blue.

It's Starmist, but the wrong manufacturer's Starmist. 

 

When I have the money, it's all going back to the correct color.

 

For now, it's being protected by a decent coat of paint.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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have you looked at the condition of the water distribution tube inside the block behind the water pump ?, i have a nos brass (best one) tube for sale.

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Not yet. I just pulled the top end to see how the rebuild work was done- not bad but not great.

 

What's the normal failure mode of the tubes?

 

Phil

 

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You better get it before I or summershandy😉I been watching this thread like a hawk as I’m likely to be embarking on the same task sooner or later

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Haha you can have it Grizz! I checked my tube when I changed the water pump and my it's is in great shape....luckily

 

14 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Admittedly not that color (better than Hunter green), but it's better than black.

 

Looks good Phil! Another heads up....I had a really bad oil leak from the front crank seal. When I took the cover off the timing chain and gear were there. Simple replacement so I did them. The seal was cork and I suspected it was hard and dried up. Another easy fix and haven't had a drop of oil since. Sorry if I'm trying to give you more work but it's just you've gotten this far and it would suck if you could have fixed something when the engine was out.....not that you have to, I didn't. Carry on!

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Surprisingly the seals have been done. The only thing that leaks oil is the gearbox- the engine is totally dry.

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4 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

the engine is totally dry.

 

Nice....I have to get around to fixing a leak around the flywheel. I suspect the rear crank. Probably won't do it this year. Just keep parking over a sheet of plywood in my drive. It's pretty light for now. Didn't get out until late last summer so I'd like to do some cruisin' this summer!

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That's the purpose of this work.

 

The gearbox seals are all shot; once that changes OK I need to look at the steering box, as the Pitman arm bearing has a lot of lash.

 

Phil

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Pulled the water pump, shone my bright flashlight down inside and apart from about half a teaspoon of crud spread over the back half, the brass guide insert is in good shape.

 

Bought some new gasket paper also.

 

Phil

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Apart from economy, I cannot see a good reason why the water pump gasket shouldn't be the full size of the water pump backplate?

 

Phil

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1 hour ago, PhilAndrews said:

Apart from economy, I cannot see a good reason why the water pump gasket shouldn't be the full size of the water pump backplate?

 

Phil

that's true, the gasket would have been the size to function and to keep the repair in warranty.

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I think I'm going to make it the full size of the backplate because water has gotten down between the gaps and was rusting. I've cleaned that up, hopefully it'll prevent that occurring.

 

My engine is rather outside warranty.

 

 

Phil

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