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'51 Chieftain - On The Road


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  • PhilAndrews changed the title to '51 Chieftain - On The Road

Tonight, gave the car an oil change. What came out was dirty and that greyish thin of a lot of gas having gotten past the rings. 

So much more smooth now. I'd forgotten how quiet this motor is with fresh oil in.

 

Phil

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2 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Tonight, gave the car an oil change. What came out was dirty and that greyish thin of a lot of gas having gotten past the rings. 

So much more smooth now. I'd forgotten how quiet this motor is with fresh oil in.

 

Phil

pretty much the only thing you would hear, is the air being moved by the radiator fan, and the smooth steady light ticking of 16 solid mechanical lifters.

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12 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

pretty much the only thing you would hear, is the air being moved by the radiator fan, and the smooth steady light ticking of 16 solid mechanical lifters.

Yup, that's how it's gone back to being. It's nice to hear, like a sewing machine.

 

Phil

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Finished the list.

 

Changed the coolant, it's now got 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water.

Oil filter gauze oiled up and dish filled.

New manifold gaskets.

New rubber fuel pipe (marine grade ethanol stable)

Fuel pump bowl cleaned

 

Phil

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Test drive tonight. It's a lot more quiet now the manifolds fully seal! 

Running really very well and the fuel economy has improved.

20200926_191130.thumb.jpg.d31830ce0950ec77c410e5bd62137b56.jpg

The car met with general approval.

 

Nice evening, going to go put it in the garage for the night now.

 

Phil

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Doesn't drive too badly, all things given.

 

 

Bands in the gearbox need changing, they squeak on gentle uptake until the oil has gotten around; that I'm going to have to pull the gearbox apart to fix, and the exhaust needs another couple supports to stop the clunks and bangs over bumps.

 

Not too bad of a list really.

 

Phil

 

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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Crank vent tube arrived from Cevensky today. Going to set about cleaning it up (naturally it's clogged with old oil, for to the nature of the part) tonight after work in the ultrasonic bath.

 

Thank you!

 

Phil

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10 minutes ago, Grizz said:

What would be the factory color used for the engine? Can I get that in Krylon?

Brunswick Green, and no. 

 

However, there is a supplier of the correct color paint. I just can't remember offhand who it is.

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20200929_185056.thumb.jpg.9bcfc5f027d1811bb788f4b1a0541bf4.jpg

Has to reroute the oil gauge and wiper vacuum pipes. Because they were talking a route closer to the engine I made a little bracket to support them before they left for the body.

Made up a bracket for the lower end of the pipe but it's a little thick, need to find some thinner metal and make another.

 

Phil

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16 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

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Thanks to Grizz; I now have a serviceable flywheel cover. That'll help protect things underneath.

 

I'll give that a clean up and a coat of paint to protect it then put it on.

 

Phil

The other one I have has remanence of paint that is the same color as the engine. Not sure if that’s factory or not. The hydramatic trans. Is just grey I think? 

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15 minutes ago, Grizz said:

The other one I have has remanence of paint that is the same color as the engine. Not sure if that’s factory or not. The hydramatic trans. Is just grey I think? 

Yes sir. Battleship gray for the gearbox. I painted the engine bell housing the same color as the engine and began the gray at the gearbox bell housing.

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I'll paint this the same color as the engine (rather than black as the oil pan and ancillaries).

 

Phil

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Hi Phil,

 

Your car is fantastic as are your skills and willingness to have a go. The results are a testament to you.

 

The colour of your engine is very similar to mine. What shade of blue is it that you are using? 

 

Regards

 

Joe

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1 hour ago, 47FordCoupe said:

Hi Phil,

 

Your car is fantastic as are your skills and willingness to have a go. The results are a testament to you.

 

The colour of your engine is very similar to mine. What shade of blue is it that you are using? 

 

Regards

 

Joe

Joe

 

My camera sometimes decides it's blue, sometimes green!

It's called "Deep Turquoise", krylon oil based.

 

Phil

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20201003_154608.thumb.jpg.b2735603d1f6bba6d00a7ebb8c74be3f.jpg

Stone guard installed.

 

Manifolds were also chattering slightly from the join between the two. I spoke to a few friends of mine who build race engines and they all said clear silicone bathroom sealant.

So, I bought some and sealed the manifolds with it. Result, it worked beautifully.

Bought a quick disconnect for the battery for when the car's locked up in the garage too.

 

Improvement on improvement. 

 

Phil

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Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, Grizz said:

You put the silicon on the stone guard?

No, on the join between the two halves of the manifold.

 

20201003_141115.thumb.jpg.622cf1e8af0cae81af953f0c97017ebe.jpg

 

It tolerates the heat and is flexible and will pull apart if needed, can be scraped off with a knife and reapplied.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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15 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

It tolerates the heat

Really? That surprises the heck outta me. Didn't even know it had a heat rating....sure could have some hot showers with THAT stuff!

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1 hour ago, Summershandy said:

Really? That surprises the heck outta me. Didn't even know it had a heat rating....sure could have some hot showers with THAT stuff!

Surprised me too. It doesn't start to break down until about 1200F, similar to the expensive engine stuff (which generally seems to be made from the same thing, just with added colorant). Tube of engine silicone $20, bathroom stuff $4.

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4 minutes ago, john hess said:

Hi Phil.... There is a gasket available for  in between them, but if that works........ Good deal then....

I do have a brand new gasket between them, but the near edge is a bit pitted with corrosion and didn't seal at all well.

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7 minutes ago, john hess said:

Ok... Missread that part i guess.... That helps (silicone), im sure......

For where the gasket only just doesn't seal, yes. It was making good contact around about 90% of the mating faces, this just filled the gap.

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The manifold overall is definitely sealing better now because the engine tune is better.

I just set the ignition timing, and instead of the engine faltering and not idling well, it increases in speed when the timing is advanced now.

That means I should be able to lean the mixture off instead of having to run it fat to stop it stalling.

 

Phil

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18 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Surprised me too. It doesn't start to break down until about 1200F, similar to the expensive engine stuff (which generally seems to be made from the same thing, just with added colorant). Tube of engine silicone $20, bathroom stuff $4.

40 years later and now he tells me! I've got black, blue, copper and a few other dried up tubes kicking around....

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19 minutes ago, Summershandy said:

40 years later and now he tells me! I've got black, blue, copper and a few other dried up tubes kicking around....

The technology has moved on in 40 years- older silicone was never rated for temperatures as high as found on exhausts.

 

Pho

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On 10/2/2020 at 4:12 PM, PhilAndrews said:

Joe

 

My camera sometimes decides it's blue, sometimes green!

It's called "Deep Turquoise", krylon oil based.

 

Phil

Thanks Phil.

 

One more paint related question, what shade red did you use for the emblem?

 

Thanks

 

Joe

 

 

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3 hours ago, 47FordCoupe said:

Thanks Phil.

 

One more paint related question, what shade red did you use for the emblem?

 

Thanks

 

Joe

 

 

Tamiya TS74 clear red lacquer.

 

Phil

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16 minutes ago, 47FordCoupe said:

Thanks Phil,

 

Not sure if either of those will be available in the UK but I'll have a look.

 

Thanks again

 

Joe

 

My bad, it's Rust-oleum "American Accents" Deep Turquoise.

The Tamiya stuff is available at any shop that does R/C model cars, planes etc.

 

Phil

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