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'51 Chieftain - On The Road


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20200710_175024.thumb.jpg.c549d030a53e31554deb3380615bb6fb.jpg

Need to tweak the temperature gauge. Run to temperature today and it was reading 220 when my IR thermometer said the whole engine and radiator were at 170. Going to adjust that.

 

Phil

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20200713_195858.thumb.jpg.4951d386d433f8060fa1d91f8a9671da.jpg

Driver's front sash channel.

 

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Yes, that is window putty.

 

Rubber strip is missing; also front glass channel is missing (glass did up tight against metal and fractured). 

 

Rear/top glass channel is bent. Does that just push in, or does it have fixings to hold it in?

 

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

 

Completed the previous bracket and used it to hold the pipes in place where they go through the chassis.

 

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Making another bracket. I put the long run return pipe in and was dissatisfied at the lack of support so went ahead and fabricated a bracket to hold it.

 

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Fairly straightforward, bolts through one of the old battery tray bolt holes.

 

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Better, takes a fair bit of load off the radiator lower return spigot.

 

 

Quite happy though, filled the cooling system back up and ran it up to temperature. Heater works well!

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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Next thing on the cooling system, missing the thermostat. I need to take some measurements but it looks like the big truck (large Cummins diesel) thermostats are the same style as the one originally used- the funny high flow cage style ones that go up into the housing.

I see there's an adapter plate to take a regular thermostat but it gets hot here and I want as much flow through this system as I can get, particularly when the engine is at low RPM (stuck in traffic).

 

Any thoughts, experiences?

 

Phil

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I have a NORS thermostat and a NOS thermostat retainer for $35.  I have never found a late model thermostat that fits properly in the housing.  Kurt Kelsey 641-648-9086

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Mine didn't have a thermostat either when I removed the housing. I slapped in one that just barely fit (almost fell through hole) I think from a Chevy big block. Worked for a year or so but then decided to replace it with an original style one. I'm still a believer in original design. Works fine for me.

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In the original setup, you need the spacer ring to hold the thermostat up in the housing. It isn't obvious when you are looking at it without the old parts, but that's how it works.

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Yeah, that's what I was looking at- it measures 2 3/8" (with the aperture in the head 2 1/4") and 1" deep machined into the housing.

 

I was just looking for anything that would fit in the depth as it's not particularly deep down into the head before you hit water jacket casting, using the depth of the machined section to allow the base of the thermostat to move toward the engine as it opens.

 

--Phil

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20200730_183911.thumb.jpg.a0933fd635488e704255b2f00933e4e5.jpg

Parts unboxed. I like new old stock.

 

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All together as an assembly.

 

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Cut a new gasket and applied a little sealant before reassembling, filling it back up and running it up to temperature. Opens up at about 180 and then holds about 190 or so. Heater blows red hot. Definitely good.

 

Phil

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35 minutes ago, john hess said:

Nice...looks good Phil... Glad your heater works.. Need that these last few days !!!

 

Only benefit it has right now is to boost the radiator at idle.. in winter it'll be pleasant.

 

Phil

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20200802_141449.thumb.jpg.07053d56a84b4f582b242709861c00c8.jpg

Rainy day so a bit of garage time before it got too hot. Previous owner decided the best polishing method was wire wheel. 

 

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Buffed that out as well as I could- it's down to the nickel in places (courtesy of wire wheel) but it's better.

 

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Itty bitty buffing wheel to get into the tight corners, of which it has many.

 

 

Phil

 

 

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20200802_162313.thumb.jpg.a1a2ad17ae56f3b36bffaf00eae7ef6d.jpg

That's as far as I got before it got too warm. 

Improved, but there's still more to do. I think eventually I may look for a replacement in better condition than this one is.

 

Phil

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Cooler in the garage once the sun went down (by a couple degrees, at least), so I decided to have a go at a bit more of the chrome.

 

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Improving. A little. So long as you don't look too closely.

 

Phil

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1 hour ago, PhilAndrews said:

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Got a brand new exhaust custom bent to shape, put it in tonight. Much better, the old one was all holes.

 

Phil

Now that new exhaust needs this.

20200626_112449.jpg

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

Now that new exhaust needs this.

I would, but my budget is more $6.99 from AutoZone right now...

 

... Plus, it wouldn't fit. I brought it out to 2 1/4" at the muffler and took it all the way to the back that size.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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11 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

I would, but my budget is more $6.99 from AutoZone right now...

 

... Plus, it wouldn't fit. I brought it out to 2 1/4" at the muffler and took it all the way to the back that size.

 

Phil

yeah, looks like it would be a 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" tailpipe.

 

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10 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

yeah, looks like it would be a 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" tailpipe.

 

Yes, the one I took off, where it wasn't holed, was 1 3/4". I decided to go with a modern standard size for ease of future replacement. Slightly bigger than what's coming down from the manifold, but such is life. That won't hurt, particularly as the bends take the diameter down somewhat.

 

Phil

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13 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

I would, but my budget is more $6.99 from AutoZone right now...

 

... Plus, it wouldn't fit. I brought it out to 2 1/4" at the muffler and took it all the way to the back that size.

 

Phil

I like the look of this clamp style and my budget is like Phil's.....didn't even splurge on the ruby insert!

 

 

IMG_7921.JPG

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Posted (edited)

Just discovered the rear r/h window mechanism is missing. Great. The handle, gears, crossbar and lift arm are there, but the sash runner and channel are missing. I shook the door, didn't hear anything rattling about inside so they are presumed gone. 

 

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I did get the lock working though.

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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18 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

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Free moment tonight, so I set the headlight aim. That'll work. They're not bad lights, the old Fed-spec 7" units.

 

Phil

Great shot!

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The weather turned briefly pleasant this afternoon so I ran the car up to temperature and then put the front up on stands.

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Grabbed a selection of tools. 

 

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My workspace for the next hour or so.

 

 

Worth it because the lash was all wrong- I had set the valves by eye, cold, when I took the valves out last.

 

It's got the correct note back to it now and runs nice and smoothly. Worth the burned fingers.

 

Phil

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20200824_202009.thumb.jpg.20c17a48d36d195c84b85796b5ddd0c4.jpg

Obtained some spare parts that were missing from the window mechanism on the passenger back door. Albeit cracked, that now winds up and down with care.

 

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Got creative and made a sash channel grip from electrical wire insulation and got the front window lined up well enough that it doesn't catch on the frame any more.

 

4 winding windows now. Good for summertime!

 

Phil

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20200825_201253.thumb.jpg.3bc9feef7256fe4eccb261c86a1971e4.jpg

Looks better with the glass having had a deep clean.

 

Found out why the rear winder falls off the track. The lower stop is attached to the door blanking plate, which is missing.

 

Phil

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  • PhilAndrews changed the title to '51 Chieftain - On The Road

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