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'51 Chieftain - On The Road


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Afternoon, all

 

I'm making prep to pull my engine and transmission out- 8 with hydramatic because I need to rebuild the gearbox valve block (plus it leaks like the Exxon Valdez).

I'm thinking the easiest method will be to pull them both out as a unit, I'm going to remove the strengthening frame from in front of the radiator and the front grille to give enough room. The radiator is out already. 

There's a mount at the front (2 bolts that I see), the propshaft, a mount at the rear, the gearshift linkage, throttle linkage, gearbox thrill position linkage, speedometer and the electricals to remove.

I've pulled the generator off, I'll take the manifolds off and I was looking to use four of the head bolts as lifting points.

 

Anything I've missed? The service manual helpfully shows a nice sketch of one side of the engine and that's all there is on the topic.

 

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought myself a hydraulic floor crane (1000lb on full extension). I have a couple of engine chains, the type that you attach to bolts.

 

20190203_121221.thumb.jpg.8918ac6829c0ac6070d08ff0c167ef84.jpg

 

The shop manual states you can lift the engine using the head bolts- I'm going to lift the engine and transmission out together.

 

Whereabouts is the balance point? I'm looking at it and thinking towards the back of the engine?

 

Also are the head bolts long enough to have enough thread with standard engine chains? The plates are about a third of an inch thick.

 

Thanks

 

 

Phil

 

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hi, do the chains have a lifting plate at each end ?, how many chains are going to do the lifting, 2 or 4 ?, i would advise you to buy or rent a engine tilter, with four chain lifting points and a worm shaft with crank handle at one end, and fasten the rear portion to both rear corner headbolts and the front portion to the headbolts near #4 spark plugs. 1/3" plates, the headbolts will be fine.

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once you have the engine/trans supported by the hoist, unbolt the left and right rear motor mounts from the bell housing and remove the 6 bolts mounting the rear cross member to drop the cross member from the frame.

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23 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

hi, do the chains have a lifting plate at each end ?, how many chains are going to do the lifting, 2 or 4 ?, i would advise you to buy or rent a engine tilter, with four chain lifting points and a worm shaft with crank handle at one end, and fasten the rear portion to both rear corner headbolts and the front portion to the headbolts near #4 spark plugs. 1/3" plates, the headbolts will be fine.

They do. I have 2 chains, they have a plate at each end. I was going to cross them over in an X and lift in the center of the X, which would be over cylinder 6 or thereabouts.

I'm going to fight it without a load leveler, I've pulled the radiator, I'm going to remove the U channel stiffener, cross brace and front grille so I don't have to lift it up really high (and avoid removing the hood).

 

Phil

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This is where I left off today. Manifolds removed, fuel pump off, throttle and gears disconnected.

 

20190209_115403.thumb.jpg.db5d96c26d1888cec90fad80cfd59647.jpg

 

Next up, disconnect the propshaft, pull the crossbrace off the front, get the cradle undone and start on getting it out of the car.

 

Phil

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Propshaft.

 

I've not been up under the car too much so far because of all the damn spiders. If I undo the flange bolts on the diff, drop the prop down will the front end just pull off the splines? Manual doesn't show any retainer on the front.

 

Phil

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3 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

yes, the splined driveshaft yoke should slip off the splined trans tailshaft.

 

I've not been up under the car too much so far because of all the damn spiders. If I undo the flange bolts on the diff, drop the prop down will the front end just pull off the splines? Manual doesn't show any retainer on the front.

 

Phil

 

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All I need to do is remove the crossbrace (4 sheet metal bolts) and there's a gap the width of the radiator and the highest point is the lip of the front bumper. The entire assembly should come out of there.

 

That and I didn't fancy realigning it all, and I also am doing this by myself so this seems to be the most sane route at this juncture.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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Next up past this is a bit more expense.

 

1) Radiator needs repair. Hopefully it just needs a bit of brazing to seal it up, rather than a full recore.

2) I need to replace the generator. I'm going to get an alternator that is built into the original style generator housing. I've run dynamo generators in the past and they work fine but truly they hold nothing against a decent alternator.

3) Tempted to pull the head off and inspect the block and bores for cracks.

4) Gearbox valve block and seal rebuild (reason for engine removal)

 

Then on to steering and brakes and then wiring.

 

Piece by piece!

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)
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I had a leveler with my old crane back in England. It was useful. I was concerned that it would add too much height and I'd foul the hood lifting it out.

 

Discovered the gearbox leaks when you take the propshaft off the splines. Kitty litter to the rescue.

 

Phil

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2 hours ago, Summershandy said:

Glad to hear it worked out for you and thanks for the pic. I'll probably have to attempt this one day too. 

If you're willing to drill the rivets out, this is a moderately easy operation. No front clip removal, no hood removal.

 

I can list what I did in order if you need.

 

Phil

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5 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Question, is the tailshaft meant to pass oil with the propshaft end removed removed? It looks like there's meant to be a seal inside that wouldn't take that for it to seal.

 

 

Edit, going the section of the rebuild manual that shows it does.

 

 

 

Phil

the slip yoke is what the rear seal seals against, so naturally if the slip yoke and driveshaft come away from the rear seal and tailshaft spline, you're going to spill some ATF fluids.

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4 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

Is that just a pressed steel cover?

 

Yup...along with a tiny hole drilled in the bottom, I guess as an indicator of a seal leak up above like I got. Engine will have to be removed to fix that one. I hate leaks and I pretty much got it dry except for that one. I'm sure that cover would be available and not that expensive. Wouldn't want any debris hitting the flywheel. 

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I painted my engine the blue/green colour and got it from Bill Hirsh. I'm very happy with the brushability and durability but I've only ran it one summer. Can't help you with the trans...couldn't find much info on it. Mine is a combination orange and metallic blue....probably the past owners left overs! 

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1 hour ago, PhilAndrews said:

That sounds very.. eighties. I think I'll stick with the light gray, it's a sensible color.

 

Haha....agreed. I wasn't so concerned about the hydramatic colour....you can't really see it from above and looked a lot harder to paint installed. You've got the convenience of removal so go at it. 

 

I didn't like the blue/green when I first put it on but it grew on me and now I love it! I painted the horn, air cleaner, battery cover, inner fenders etc. semi gloss black and like that look too.

 

Cheers,

Mark

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Edited by Summershandy
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22 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

Is there meant to be a lower bellhousing cover?

 

The manual picture looks like there should be.

 

Phil

yes, pontiac engines have a sheet metal lower flywheel/torus cover. p/n 515090 1948 to 1954 pontiacs.

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8 hours ago, Summershandy said:

 

Yup...along with a tiny hole drilled in the bottom, I guess as an indicator of a seal leak up above like I got. Engine will have to be removed to fix that one. I hate leaks and I pretty much got it dry except for that one. I'm sure that cover would be available and not that expensive. Wouldn't want any debris hitting the flywheel. 

so is your rear engine rope seal leaking ?

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15 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

so is your rear engine rope seal leaking ?

 

That's what I figure....it's a minor leak with a more major fix. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I didn't get the car on the road as soon as I wanted to last year and I'd like to enjoy it a little more this summer. Which by the way, are very very short up here in Northern Ontario!

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  • PhilAndrews changed the title to '51 Chieftain - Valve job
  • PhilAndrews changed the title to '51 Chieftain - On The Road

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