PhilAndrews

'51 Chieftain - Getting back to it

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Question

 

What's the best type of valve spring compressor for this block? I'm looking at the pincers style ones that wind out.

 

Phil

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49 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

Question a deep C type spring compressor

 

 

What's the best type of valve spring compressor for this block? I'm looking at the pincers style ones that wind out.

 

Phil

 

49 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

Question

 

What's the best type of valve spring compressor for this block? I'm looking at the pincers style ones that wind out.

 

Phil

 

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I managed to clear up the valves with some gentle persuasion and a bit of lubricant

 

Back now really to needing gaskets because I can't get the mixture to balance across the rev range. I think the carburetor probably needs a good clean because I've had to dial the slow-running jets out quite a bit further than the manual suggests to get it to run without leaning out at light throttle.

 

Phil

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5 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

I managed to clear up the valves with some gentle persuasion and a bit of lubricant

 

Back now really to needing gaskets because I can't get the mixture to balance across the rev range. I think the carburetor probably needs a good clean because I've had to dial the slow-running jets out quite a bit further than the manual suggests to get it to run without leaning out at light throttle.

 

Phil

 

That shouldn't even work. You just fixed the manifold alignment issue, right? All ports sit flat against the block? I don't recall, but if not, get it faced, and new gaskets. The exhaust manifold will expand with heat and slide on the gaskets a little as it gets bigger. Make sure that your attachment hardware is not going to to restrict that motion, because if it does, the manifold might break or warp.

 

Make sure your wiper system and/or booster pump don't leak vacuum when shut off. If there's any doubt at all, disconnect at the manifold and plug the manifold. Kit the carb if it's not been done recently. The mixture screw on a car that new is only for slow hot idle. The fact that it helps suggests things are seriously out of whack.

 

You just freed up some valves? Did you have the head off? I'm not sure whether you meant you need gaskets for the head, or for the manifolds, but they both need to be perfect, so replace any that are suspect.

 

How is the compression now? Also, if you haven't, check the valve adjustment. I wouldn't tighten any loose ones just yet until it has run a little more, because maybe theres crud on the valve faces. Just adjust ones that are too tight for now. Do the whole job later, after it has run more.

 

Keep at it.. You're close!

 

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Phil, are you operating with no gaskets between the manifolds and between the manifolds and block?

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Bloo:

Had the head off, it had a little corrosion that was causing two valves to hang up when the stems got warm and free up when the guide caught up to their expansion- the valves are stainless so have a different coefficient.

Head gasket is perfect, the deck and head are both totally flat.

The manifold.. is not. It's now flat along most of its length, with the center 2 exhaust ports sitting back a bit, one intake runner being a fraction off (come back to that), originally the rear section of the manifold had a warp.

 

Cevensky:

Yes, but not the proper ones so the seal they form isn't as good as it should be. I think the mixture is getting funky on pots 5 and 6.

 

 

Yes, I need to get the manifold properly decked. It's a case of finding a decent shop to do it- those are few and far between here. So, until then I can take the gap up with gasket and it's going to have to be a compromise. 

 

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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20191109_114530.thumb.jpg.6c81016751d1f4941c64978f066a8bf5.jpg

Weather was nice Saturday and I had a bit of time so I started on the roof.

 

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There's a lot of real estate. I really need a machine polisher.

 

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Finished up later on because the sun was getting a little warm. Cleaned all the chrome up. 

 

Getting better.

 

Phil

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Tail light question. Will a 1950 lens fit a 1951/52 housing? It looks like they're the same diameter but the 51-52 lens is significantly more domed.

 

My tail light lenses have had it and I'm looking to see if I can get something that is either correct or very nearly correct until I can find the correct lenses. 

 

51-52 lenses seem thin on the ground but 49-50 lenses are fairly easy to find.

 

Phil

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52 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

Tail light question. Will a 1950 lens fit a 1951/52 housing? It looks like they're the same diameter but the 51-52 lens is significantly more domed.

 

My tail light lenses have had it and I'm looking to see if I can get something that is either correct or very nearly correct until I can find the correct lenses. 

 

51-52 lenses seem thin on the ground but 49-50 lenses are fairly easy to find.

 

Phil

i believe the lens diameter may be the same, getting bigger on 53-54 chieftains, and bigger again on 54 star chiefs.

 

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5 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

i believe the lens diameter may be the same, getting bigger on 53-54 chieftains, and bigger again on 54 star chiefs.

 

there is several listings on ebay for pontiacs 1952 taillight lens

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8 hours ago, pontiac1953 said:

there is several listings on ebay for pontiacs 1952 taillight lens

Yeah, but a lot of them have seen the same amount of sun.

 

I was looking at reproduction ones. There's a few offered in glass, which will hold up much better to the sunshine down here than plastic. But, they're all '50 fitment.

 

Phil

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There's a size difference between them. Typical.

 

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Tried to cheer one of the lenses up. Not perfect by any means but it's better than it was.

 

Phil

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20191116_160643.thumb.jpg.eb2029b2bdfc74df73ba0f7cb3dc0eff.jpg

On the car, the redone lens looks significantly better. I need to get some more lacquer.

 

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Cleaned up the overflow pipe for the radiator. Need to flux and solder it in place.

 

Also decided to hook up the strobe again and found that cylinders 1 and 8 are firing at the same time. That'll be the distributor cap definitely no good then.

 

Phil

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48-49 radio suppression distributor cap nos, should fit your distributor too. $30.00

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Okay. I was once told there are no stupid questions, so here's one.

 

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The manual states "remove the drum", however 60 years of rust and nonsense have occurred. It looks as though the hub and drum are two separate entities but I don't want to be fighting to remove things in the wrong fashion.

 

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I've never had to pull this series of brakes apart before. I've had ones with separate drums, drums that are hub integral and these don't give too much clue.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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hi phil, the front hub and front brake drum are an integral unit, only because the lug bolt shaft has splines long enough to bite into both parts, when i needed 1/4" longer lug bolts to keep 100% lug nut thread contact while using a 1/4" wheel spacer, i went to NAPA auto parts store and bought them, the bonus was the new lug bolt splines were only long enough to bite completely into the hub but not the brake drum, now my front drums will slide off the front hubs by hand, just like the rear drums always have.

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Edited by pontiac1953 (see edit history)
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I'll stick with the hub and drum coming off together, in that case. I just prefer not because that's dirt ingress where it doesn't need any but I guess pull off, wash out and repack is not too much trouble.

 

Phil

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6 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

I'll stick with the hub and drum coming off together, in that case. I just prefer not because that's dirt ingress where it doesn't need any but I guess pull off, wash out and repack is not too much trouble.

 

Phil

will be easier to handle, repack the bearings with the drum out of the way. i'm changing the front inner and outer wheel bearings to the better tapered roller bearings i bought.

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Had thirty minutes tonight so I head out to the garage.

 

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Scrubbing brush and gasoline.

 

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Since when, in the history of never, has anybody just scrubbed at brakes and they came up nice?

 

The mind boggles

 

 

Phil

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20191122_162644.thumb.jpg.c8cc1275a9a6ab4c0509c32df2fd13e8.jpg

Drum/hub assembly removed. 

 

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Doesn't look too bad but I didn't have any time to examine any more. Twenty minutes in the garage at a time this week.

 

Phill

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Cleaned and re-greased and reassembled. However, top adjuster locknut is seized solid.

 

That's on the to-do list. At least I know why that brake was so poor.

 

Phil

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