PhilAndrews

'51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

Recommended Posts

Afternoon, all

 

I'm making prep to pull my engine and transmission out- 8 with hydramatic because I need to rebuild the gearbox valve block (plus it leaks like the Exxon Valdez).

I'm thinking the easiest method will be to pull them both out as a unit, I'm going to remove the strengthening frame from in front of the radiator and the front grille to give enough room. The radiator is out already. 

There's a mount at the front (2 bolts that I see), the propshaft, a mount at the rear, the gearshift linkage, throttle linkage, gearbox thrill position linkage, speedometer and the electricals to remove.

I've pulled the generator off, I'll take the manifolds off and I was looking to use four of the head bolts as lifting points.

 

Anything I've missed? The service manual helpfully shows a nice sketch of one side of the engine and that's all there is on the topic.

 

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bummer...my manual has step by step for removal/installation of both the transmission and engine. It does state the engine may be removed from the car with the transmission attached.....good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm. Which manual is that?

 

I plan on taking them both out, attached. With the grille and everything off the access if actually pretty good.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh ya....it's the 1949-1954 Pontiac Shop Manual. Guess that would work for you too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought myself a hydraulic floor crane (1000lb on full extension). I have a couple of engine chains, the type that you attach to bolts.

 

20190203_121221.thumb.jpg.8918ac6829c0ac6070d08ff0c167ef84.jpg

 

The shop manual states you can lift the engine using the head bolts- I'm going to lift the engine and transmission out together.

 

Whereabouts is the balance point? I'm looking at it and thinking towards the back of the engine?

 

Also are the head bolts long enough to have enough thread with standard engine chains? The plates are about a third of an inch thick.

 

Thanks

 

 

Phil

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi, do the chains have a lifting plate at each end ?, how many chains are going to do the lifting, 2 or 4 ?, i would advise you to buy or rent a engine tilter, with four chain lifting points and a worm shaft with crank handle at one end, and fasten the rear portion to both rear corner headbolts and the front portion to the headbolts near #4 spark plugs. 1/3" plates, the headbolts will be fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

once you have the engine/trans supported by the hoist, unbolt the left and right rear motor mounts from the bell housing and remove the 6 bolts mounting the rear cross member to drop the cross member from the frame.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said:

hi, do the chains have a lifting plate at each end ?, how many chains are going to do the lifting, 2 or 4 ?, i would advise you to buy or rent a engine tilter, with four chain lifting points and a worm shaft with crank handle at one end, and fasten the rear portion to both rear corner headbolts and the front portion to the headbolts near #4 spark plugs. 1/3" plates, the headbolts will be fine.

They do. I have 2 chains, they have a plate at each end. I was going to cross them over in an X and lift in the center of the X, which would be over cylinder 6 or thereabouts.

I'm going to fight it without a load leveler, I've pulled the radiator, I'm going to remove the U channel stiffener, cross brace and front grille so I don't have to lift it up really high (and avoid removing the hood).

 

Phil

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is where I left off today. Manifolds removed, fuel pump off, throttle and gears disconnected.

 

20190209_115403.thumb.jpg.db5d96c26d1888cec90fad80cfd59647.jpg

 

Next up, disconnect the propshaft, pull the crossbrace off the front, get the cradle undone and start on getting it out of the car.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking forward to see it out of the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Propshaft.

 

I've not been up under the car too much so far because of all the damn spiders. If I undo the flange bolts on the diff, drop the prop down will the front end just pull off the splines? Manual doesn't show any retainer on the front.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said:

yes, the splined driveshaft yoke should slip off the splined trans tailshaft.

 

I've not been up under the car too much so far because of all the damn spiders. If I undo the flange bolts on the diff, drop the prop down will the front end just pull off the splines? Manual doesn't show any retainer on the front.

 

Phil

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always preferred to remove the front clip and not have to raise the engine/trans so high to remove or install them, here is 20 years ago installing the 55 287 V8 & hydramatic into my 53 Pontiac. 

20190209_100307.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I need to do is remove the crossbrace (4 sheet metal bolts) and there's a gap the width of the radiator and the highest point is the lip of the front bumper. The entire assembly should come out of there.

 

That and I didn't fancy realigning it all, and I also am doing this by myself so this seems to be the most sane route at this juncture.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next up past this is a bit more expense.

 

1) Radiator needs repair. Hopefully it just needs a bit of brazing to seal it up, rather than a full recore.

2) I need to replace the generator. I'm going to get an alternator that is built into the original style generator housing. I've run dynamo generators in the past and they work fine but truly they hold nothing against a decent alternator.

3) Tempted to pull the head off and inspect the block and bores for cracks.

4) Gearbox valve block and seal rebuild (reason for engine removal)

 

Then on to steering and brakes and then wiring.

 

Piece by piece!

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now