PhilAndrews

'51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal (Now with a little steering)

Recommended Posts

It's been a very long time since I changed the pump. Does it look like this? Is the engine block raised where the gasket goes? Maybe slap some paint on the block and pump where it doesn't seal? BTW, here's the color of the engine when I first got the car. Well, the timing chain cover at least haha.

 

 

IMG_6462.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, mine is the type where it's all machined flat and requires the circular gasket by itself on the top right bolt hole.

 

That's pretty much the color I painted mine, too.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

I think I'm going to make it the full size of the backplate because water has gotten down between the gaps and was rusting. I've cleaned that up, hopefully it'll prevent that occurring.

 

My engine is rather outside warranty.

 

 

Phil

be sure to coat the gasket with good sealant too

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/7/2019 at 12:12 PM, pontiac1953 said:

be sure to coat the gasket with good sealant too

I have a good quality RTV type sealant that's rated for antifreeze and oil (Renault Mastixo) that I'm going to use.

 

I figured that composite gaskets always split or tear when you try and remove them anyway, so the addition of that would improve the seal, at the behest of knowing the gasket will be junk next time it's split.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

All back together, runs nicely.

 

Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now.

 

Phil

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

 

All back together, runs nicely.

 

Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now.

 

Phil

awesome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/10/2019 at 5:26 PM, PhilAndrews said:

 

All back together, runs nicely.

 

Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now.

 

Phil

This is awesome!! I have two motors and I’m debating on whether or not to pull the one already installed and clean it up. Or just get it going and make the other one pretty. Either way I gotta know how you made the thing run like that outside the car. And I need specifics. The fog of ignorance is thick on my end

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks  and sounds great Phil... I see your heat riser counter weight... Is that in the hot, open position? And is it functional?  John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Grizz said:

This is awesome!! I have two motors and I’m debating on whether or not to pull the one already installed and clean it up. Or just get it going and make the other one pretty. Either way I gotta know how you made the thing run like that outside the car. And I need specifics. The fog of ignorance is thick on my end

Grizz, the requirement is minimal.

 

All it needs is a battery, the + terminal to the connector closest to the engine block on the solenoid (not the one with the fat copper connection to the nut on the starter motor!), battery - terminal to a ground point on the block, I used the one from the battery at the front top left, and a wire from the SW terminal of the coil connected to the + terminal of the battery in a fashion it can be pulled off in a hurry.

I just stuffed the wire into the gap in the battery terminal.

Fuel can on a pipe attached to the intake of the pump. Block the vacuum port on the pump if it's connected, at the manifold if not.

 

Then, screwdriver between the little nut at the top of the solenoid to the big but with the battery wire on. That'll energize the solenoid, pull the gear to mesh and turn the engine over.

 

Don't forget to brace the engine, it has a lot of torque and will flip itself onto its side if you rev it hard.

 

To stop the engine, pull the SW wire off the battery.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, john hess said:

Looks  and sounds great Phil... I see your heat riser counter weight... Is that in the hot, open position? And is it functional?  John

 

John

 

I never checked to see if it moves. I can look up and see if it's open or closed when it's cold- it does spring against the bimetallic coil. I can heat that up with my torch and see if it changes position.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

John

 

20190325_174839.thumb.jpg.e2579ad6527f82c921071551681fc1a2.jpg

 

The hotspot in its closed position.

20190325_174907.thumb.jpg.3907fa01e8043f20d94f37bcc31047e8.jpg

That's there cold.

 

After heating the bimetallic coil with my torch:

20190325_175038.thumb.jpg.0692c1d3574832385f4a108dfab236dc.jpg

It falls open under the weight of the offset mass.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is functioning, just mainly interested in comparing weight location on shaft. I had mine apart for bushing repair. Not much info on this type of repair. Trial and error mostly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to take a look and see if it's closed itself back up a little later on. Feeling how much tension is on the spring, I would say yes.

 

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I had my manifold off I changed the heat spring for fun. Also sprayed some high heat lubricant on the shaft inside and out making sure it moved freely. Sure could have used these photos a lot earlier as I had "position" questions at the time too haha. Thanks for sharing Phil.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I need a new spring? I’m not certain but I feel like mine is pretty loose. A lot of good info I’m gonna have to re read when I finally get my garage set up. Waiting on warm weather so I can epoxy the floor and then I’ll start moving in

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Either that or it just needs to be pulled round one turn to re-index it and pull on the peg when cold.

 

It should become loose when it's hot, tight when it's cold. Mine takes probably about a foot-pound to twist open when it's cold.

 

I'll take a photo of the spring side tonight.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good idea for the spring retainer... Mine keeps falling out.. I have an aftermarket spring and it is thinner material I guess.. won't stay in slot..... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Gosh, where were we? Well, in about the same place because I've been focusing on a couple other projects that take a little less money. (Radio for this, radio for a friend's '33 Model A).

I pulled the pitman arm off the steering box and pulled the shaft out the other day.

There's a fair bit of slack in both the upper and lower bushings, leading to a fairly bad null zone at the steering wheel.

 

Would anyone recommend a rebuilder? The shaft itself isn't too bad, just the bronze bushings and seal need replacing. There's a bit of slack in the worm wheel ball bearings also.

20190516_182747.thumb.jpg.256623c151e6430aa8ebdd2e692ee37f.jpg

20190516_175524.thumb.jpg.c27633f27e550b6c324238ce614d8644.jpg

20190516_175634.thumb.jpg.3a64de9fa9a92fabcd516acabc172e7c.jpg

 

Thanks

 

--Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...