PhilAndrews

'51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal (Now with a little steering)

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It's been a very long time since I changed the pump. Does it look like this? Is the engine block raised where the gasket goes? Maybe slap some paint on the block and pump where it doesn't seal? BTW, here's the color of the engine when I first got the car. Well, the timing chain cover at least haha.

 

 

IMG_6462.JPG

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No, mine is the type where it's all machined flat and requires the circular gasket by itself on the top right bolt hole.

 

That's pretty much the color I painted mine, too.

 

Phil

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15 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

I think I'm going to make it the full size of the backplate because water has gotten down between the gaps and was rusting. I've cleaned that up, hopefully it'll prevent that occurring.

 

My engine is rather outside warranty.

 

 

Phil

be sure to coat the gasket with good sealant too

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On 3/7/2019 at 12:12 PM, pontiac1953 said:

be sure to coat the gasket with good sealant too

I have a good quality RTV type sealant that's rated for antifreeze and oil (Renault Mastixo) that I'm going to use.

 

I figured that composite gaskets always split or tear when you try and remove them anyway, so the addition of that would improve the seal, at the behest of knowing the gasket will be junk next time it's split.

 

Phil

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All back together, runs nicely.

 

Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now.

 

Phil

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3 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

 

All back together, runs nicely.

 

Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now.

 

Phil

awesome.

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On 3/10/2019 at 5:26 PM, PhilAndrews said:

 

All back together, runs nicely.

 

Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now.

 

Phil

This is awesome!! I have two motors and I’m debating on whether or not to pull the one already installed and clean it up. Or just get it going and make the other one pretty. Either way I gotta know how you made the thing run like that outside the car. And I need specifics. The fog of ignorance is thick on my end

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Looks  and sounds great Phil... I see your heat riser counter weight... Is that in the hot, open position? And is it functional?  John

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Grizz said:

This is awesome!! I have two motors and I’m debating on whether or not to pull the one already installed and clean it up. Or just get it going and make the other one pretty. Either way I gotta know how you made the thing run like that outside the car. And I need specifics. The fog of ignorance is thick on my end

Grizz, the requirement is minimal.

 

All it needs is a battery, the + terminal to the connector closest to the engine block on the solenoid (not the one with the fat copper connection to the nut on the starter motor!), battery - terminal to a ground point on the block, I used the one from the battery at the front top left, and a wire from the SW terminal of the coil connected to the + terminal of the battery in a fashion it can be pulled off in a hurry.

I just stuffed the wire into the gap in the battery terminal.

Fuel can on a pipe attached to the intake of the pump. Block the vacuum port on the pump if it's connected, at the manifold if not.

 

Then, screwdriver between the little nut at the top of the solenoid to the big but with the battery wire on. That'll energize the solenoid, pull the gear to mesh and turn the engine over.

 

Don't forget to brace the engine, it has a lot of torque and will flip itself onto its side if you rev it hard.

 

To stop the engine, pull the SW wire off the battery.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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43 minutes ago, john hess said:

Looks  and sounds great Phil... I see your heat riser counter weight... Is that in the hot, open position? And is it functional?  John

 

John

 

I never checked to see if it moves. I can look up and see if it's open or closed when it's cold- it does spring against the bimetallic coil. I can heat that up with my torch and see if it changes position.

 

Phil

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John

 

20190325_174839.thumb.jpg.e2579ad6527f82c921071551681fc1a2.jpg

 

The hotspot in its closed position.

20190325_174907.thumb.jpg.3907fa01e8043f20d94f37bcc31047e8.jpg

That's there cold.

 

After heating the bimetallic coil with my torch:

20190325_175038.thumb.jpg.0692c1d3574832385f4a108dfab236dc.jpg

It falls open under the weight of the offset mass.

 

Phil

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Mine is functioning, just mainly interested in comparing weight location on shaft. I had mine apart for bushing repair. Not much info on this type of repair. Trial and error mostly.

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I'm going to take a look and see if it's closed itself back up a little later on. Feeling how much tension is on the spring, I would say yes.

 

Phil

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When I had my manifold off I changed the heat spring for fun. Also sprayed some high heat lubricant on the shaft inside and out making sure it moved freely. Sure could have used these photos a lot earlier as I had "position" questions at the time too haha. Thanks for sharing Phil.

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I guess I need a new spring? I’m not certain but I feel like mine is pretty loose. A lot of good info I’m gonna have to re read when I finally get my garage set up. Waiting on warm weather so I can epoxy the floor and then I’ll start moving in

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Posted (edited)

Either that or it just needs to be pulled round one turn to re-index it and pull on the peg when cold.

 

It should become loose when it's hot, tight when it's cold. Mine takes probably about a foot-pound to twist open when it's cold.

 

I'll take a photo of the spring side tonight.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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Good idea for the spring retainer... Mine keeps falling out.. I have an aftermarket spring and it is thinner material I guess.. won't stay in slot..... 

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Posted (edited)

Gosh, where were we? Well, in about the same place because I've been focusing on a couple other projects that take a little less money. (Radio for this, radio for a friend's '33 Model A).

I pulled the pitman arm off the steering box and pulled the shaft out the other day.

There's a fair bit of slack in both the upper and lower bushings, leading to a fairly bad null zone at the steering wheel.

 

Would anyone recommend a rebuilder? The shaft itself isn't too bad, just the bronze bushings and seal need replacing. There's a bit of slack in the worm wheel ball bearings also.

20190516_182747.thumb.jpg.256623c151e6430aa8ebdd2e692ee37f.jpg

20190516_175524.thumb.jpg.c27633f27e550b6c324238ce614d8644.jpg

20190516_175634.thumb.jpg.3a64de9fa9a92fabcd516acabc172e7c.jpg

 

Thanks

 

--Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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Posted (edited)

Well, I've made a little progress with the car, other projects getting in the way (as they do).

Cleaned up the steering box, got some John Deere corn head grease for it. Cleaned up the chassis and put some paint back on it. Started putting some paint on the firewall, scraping off the old tar paint underneath, going to replace it with rubberized stone chip to protect against heat and noise and road debris.

 

20190614_184518.thumb.jpg.b15438ef657736ba126642579686d3f6.jpg

 

I pulled the heater off, the valve's been leaking, though the thermostatic bellows still work. Going to send that off to be repaired.

 

Cleaned the rest of the heater up, tested the matrix for leaks and it's good. 

 

20190624_175120.thumb.jpg.65cfd60cf68068175b8b7d625894e158.jpg

 

Being as I've got it all apart, with the front of the car still installed, I'm guessing the heater fan has to come out downward out the bottom of the fender?

 

I need to get in there anyway, I've just ordered a replacement automatic antenna to replace the one that was kindly removed by the previous owner.

 

Phil

Edited by PhilAndrews (see edit history)

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On 6/24/2019 at 7:17 PM, PhilAndrews said:

Well, I've made a little progress with the car, other projects getting in the way (as they do).

Cleaned up the steering box, got some John Deere corn head grease for it. Cleaned up the chassis and put some paint back on it. Started putting some paint on the firewall, scraping off the old tar paint underneath, going to replace it with rubberized stone chip to protect against heat and noise and road debris.

 

20190614_184518.thumb.jpg.b15438ef657736ba126642579686d3f6.jpg

 

I pulled the heater off, the valve's been leaking, though the thermostatic bellows still work. Going to send that off to be repaired.

 

Cleaned the rest of the heater up, tested the matrix for leaks and it's good. 

 

20190624_175120.thumb.jpg.65cfd60cf68068175b8b7d625894e158.jpg

 

Being as I've got it all apart, with the front of the car still installed, I'm guessing the heater fan has to come out downward out the bottom of the fender?

 

I need to get in there anyway, I've just ordered a replacement automatic antenna to replace the one that was kindly removed by the previous owner.

 

Phil

that is your windshield defroster and water valve mounting, your heater is under the front seat, mounted in the floor.

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Oh shoosh, pedantic! Yes it's the defroster and valve, but it's still a heater box...!

 

I need to patch up the duct going into the under seat heater box, it's got a rusty hole in the front.

 

Phil

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Hi Phil.. you might want a helper  with that heater fan .. especially with the fenders still on... Gotta work inside the wheel well for the screws... Then it will fall out the bottom where your antenna base is attached to the bottom of the fender..  just put mine on, but no fenders in the way... John

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