PhilAndrews

'51 Chieftain - Brakes and Ignition

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Alright, there's all the springs back on.

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Clearances next, then it can all go back together.

 

Phil

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One valve was way off- but it runs again.

Need to fill up the radiator and run it up to warm and set the clearances properly.

 

Phil

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Bought some tube and fittings and reconnected the oil pressure line. Need to get some P clips.

 

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Now all my gauges work properly.

 

Phil

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5 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

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Bought some tube and fittings and reconnected the oil pressure line. Need to get some P clips.

 

20200118_180900.thumb.jpg.33e69e355e33fe89c550380d206400e0.jpg

Now all my gauges work properly.

 

Phil

awesome phil.

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Pontiac dashboard design rules;)

 

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I do rather enjoy looking at the gauges. 

 

I ran the car up to warm and the temperature gauge was pointing to about 210- I got worried and checked the temperature of the head, thermostat housing, radiator with my handheld infrared thermometer, the hottest part was the thermostat housing at 175F, the temperature sender was about 165. I then remembered I calibrated the gauge at 12.0 Volts- with the engine running a stable 14.4 was making it over read and with the engine off it was reading somewhere correct, so I think it has a voltage regulator in it's future to be useful.

 

Other than that I'm fighting with the vacuum system for the wipers and particularly the screenwash bottle, which refuses to pump given the volume flow through the wiper motor valve.

 

Phil

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Not a great deal to report right now, but I'm going to see about sending the wiper motor off for rebuild.

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Front driver's side brake adjuster locknut cane off without too much of a fight.

 

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Cleaned it up.

 

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...and painted it black. Drum off next, bearings will get a clean and fresh grease, I will free up and lubricate the lower adjuster then reassemble it all and set the brakes.

 

Phil

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Previous keeper overpacked the hub with grease. A small amount got into the drum and onto the edge of the brake shoes. Thoroughly degreased the hub and drum, rubbed the outside down and gave it a coat of paint.

 

Shoes next up to be thoroughly cleaned.

 

Phil

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As much as it's nice to have a fairly comprehensive set of gauges in the dash, I do like having a couple of attention-getters for important things, particularly as the oil pressure gauge is rather lethargic.

So, I fabricated a little under-dash light board that's fairly inconspicuous.

 

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Heat stamped the meaning of each light (changed the colors around because the orange is more visible and the oil pressure concerns me much more than the charging system) so that's good for now. 

Decided to just shotgun the brake cylinders so that's on hold while I save up for the parts, hence doing stuff that costs nothing because I had the parts to hand.

 

Phil

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A new arrival today prompted me to remove my distributor.

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I stripped it down enough to be able to change out the swashplate for the points.

I may have become a little carried away and cleaned the ride and remains of old paint off.

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Got a coat of new paint on and left it to dry. Refit comes a little later on tonight, hopefully.

 

Phil

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9 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

No hesitation, no backfires. Nice.

Good to hear! Where does one acquire dual points? I have a few gremlins hiding around and I'm wondering if this would help get some of them out. 

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On 2/20/2020 at 10:43 PM, PhilAndrews said:

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Oooh! Twin points. No wobble.

 

No hesitation, no backfires. Nice.

 

Phil

Yes, sure looks familiar, my 1955 287 Pontiac distributor with the same dual points conversion. 

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15 hours ago, Summershandy said:

Good to hear! Where does one acquire dual points? I have a few gremlins hiding around and I'm wondering if this would help get some of them out. 

hello, Philip bought my last extra nos aftermarket dual points and breaker plate assembly. 

 

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On 2/21/2020 at 8:31 AM, Summershandy said:

Good to hear! Where does one acquire dual points? I have a few gremlins hiding around and I'm wondering if this would help get some of them out. 

 

Wherever you can find them, I think. I got lucky.

 

What gremlins do you have though?

 

Phil

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My horn push badge was all faded and horrible from the sun.

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I pulled it to bits and had a go at restoring it.

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Plastic is still all crazed but it's a lot better to look at now.

 

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Quite happy with that

 

Phil

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18 hours ago, PhilAndrews said:

What gremlins do you have though?

 

At times (not every time) I have a hesitation at take off. If I don't feather the throttle it can stall. I've tried both light and heavy throttle. I naturally feather it now when I take off from a stop or red light. Another is after a good hour of cruising around town or on the highway, the engine feels like it's lightly missing. The engine is telling me that's good for the day and it's time to head home.

I've cleaned, rebuilt and adjusted the carb best I can. Fuel pump is rebuilt with all new lines and filter. All new plugs/points and wires. All vacuum lines are new and tight. I've pretty much tried everything I've read on this forum aside of an engine rebuild. I can still make it to the shows and go for Sunday cruises without a break down. Sometimes if it ain't broke......I can live with my gremlins and thought maybe dual or electronic ignition could improve performance by the sounds of your results.  

Edited by Summershandy (see edit history)

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That leaves only a few things.

 

Poor mixture (air leak or under-/over-fueling)

Poor spark

Poor compression

 

Mine would randomly lose compression when hot, but you could hear the valves getting all clicky as they were getting sticky. I also had a new spark plug that was cracked on the nose that was causing intermittent misfire too.

 

Phil

 

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1 hour ago, PhilAndrews said:

Poor mixture (air leak or under-/over-fueling)

Poor spark

Poor compression

 

I still attribute it to the carburetor

Thought dual points or electronics would make a better spark

My compression is on the low side when hot but everything still sounds good. 

I would imagine the engine could use a rebuild one day. 

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IMHO get it running right on the single points first. More levels of complication just make your life harder when the car is not running quite right yet.

 

Dual points (and electronic ignition) do have advantages, but nothing you would notice in normal driving if the points ignition is working properly, and just set up. Thats especially true on something like a Pontiac Eight. It doesn't turn fast enough to show the driver a difference.

 

Dual points (and electronic ignition) will run more miles without any adjustments to the ignition or carb. Dual points should be an advantage over the long term. Electronic ignition, while theoretically better, seems to produce nothing but bad reviews on 6 volt cars.

 

 

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)

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I agree- I only changed this because the swashplate had been butchered and was loose enough to tilt and cause the points to close up.

 

As you hear, it is actually quite a lively engine for what it is. It'll rev up hard if you ask it to if it is set up right. Are your valve clearances set right? The original valves have a significant coefficient of expansion (which is why I am running stainless valves, they expand much less) and if you have them adjusted tight then they'll not seal and you'll end up with a hot misfire. I found doing them is difficult without a set of go-no-go feelers (available online, Lisle make a nice set).

 

I would definitely get a compression gauge and test both hot and cold compression. Valve job isn't difficult but takes time and is fiddly. I found that to be the most worthwhile rebuild on the engine yet.

 

Phil

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Not sure why one would add the complexity of dual points unless trailered race car.

 

If you should decide on an electronic whizbang, upgrade from your generator to an alternator FIRST.

 

If you decide not to get the alternator, and do get the electronic whizbang, don't call when you have an erratic or no idle.

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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